1996 Land Rover Discovery 300TDi Restoration

BillyDisco1 · Saturday at 01:14

Hi all,

My first post here, I am the proud owner of a slightly rusty two tone Red and Grey Disco 1 with Discovery 150 running along the side of it as of about 4 days ago.

What I am looking for is advice on how to solve some issues with the car.

First issue is that the car takes a while to start, it turns over great will take about 10 seconds to catch twice and then starts and idles at 600-700rpm and sounds beautiful. The car had been sitting for approximately 8-10 years, and I have started it everyday sometimes multiple times a day since receiving it 4 days ago. When I looked at it 5 days ago the car had large plooms of black/grey smoke, this has now all but gone with just a light white smoke when running I believe due to me needing a new exhaust as the current one is rusted out. Any ideas what would be causing the long start?

Second issue is central locking with the key, both keys will lock the car but unlocking does not work, you need to put the key in the door to unlock it. When I do unlock the car with the key in the door it only unlocks 3 of the 4 doors (passenger door unlocks as in the lock is up but the door needs to be unlocked with the key to allow you to open the door), this could be an issue due to it sitting and it needs to be used more, anyone any ideas?

Third issue is chassis rust, can I get any welder to repair it? There is some large holes in the rear but for the most part the chassis is solid. There is a hole at the bottom of the B pillar on the drivers side, I can get this part online I have seen. There is rust on the rear right sky light. A hole into the bodywork just below the bottom left corner of the window. I will be getting all new seals for the windows and doors so I will expect to uncover more around this window especially. The lip on the roof has some surface rust which I expect to just grind off and put a coat of rust protector and then paint. Inside the rear driver side door there is rust on the arch. The boot door when you open it has some significant rust in one section on the lip in front of the door, is there a part online which I can buy and weld for this area? Would anyone have an approximation on how much in total I'm looking at for welding alone?

Fourth issue is I also had an issue once (out of about 10 times, has not happened in 8 tries) when turning it off where I turned the car off and removed the key but the engine stayed running, thankfully being a manual you can just stall it and it'll turn off but what is causing this and how do I fix it permanently?

Fifth issue is that I can lower all the windows using the console controls, but the rear buttons on the doors don't work, what do I need to do?

Also how do I know if my car has ABS or doesn't have ABS I need to know so I don't order the wrong brake lines as mine are rotted on one side.

Throughout my restoration of this Disco I will upload some photos and other issues as I encounter them.

If someone would be so kind as to give me a hand with some information regarding my Disco's issues it would be very much appreciated.

All the best,

Billy

BillyDisco1 · Saturday at 01:24

BillyDisco1 · Saturday at 01:27

All photos are the worst of the rust on the car (bar b pillar and inside the rear right door). If anyone who's dealt with Rusty Disco 1s can tell me whether I'll need a new half chassis and how extensive the work is on the sills (ie. new sills) it would be much appreciated. Thanks Billy

Mickob71 · Saturday at 07:08

Morning Billy, when you say any welder do you mean anyone who can weld or the actual machine? Personal preference is a gas mig, and f you mean any welder as in person, it will deffo have to be someone who knows how to fabricate, I bought mine and had all the inner and outer sills done, bulk head, rear floor, chassis , but it’s do able.
All the electrical gremlins , if I’m honest sound very much like an earth issue, ideally replace the earth to the engine and the body and battery, start from there. Get a owners manual, I’ll find a link for you, somewhere on this site is the download one, but I paid top of my head £40 quid ish for a hard copy , it’s the bible.
Rough starting, replace both fuel filters, one at back one at the front. Also fuel lines, that old and not been run, perished.

Cracking project !!

Mickob71 · Saturday at 07:12

90 per cent of the earth points on D1 are behind the radio on the bulk head , big spider of earth connections, corroded of loose. Sorted mine, and perfect now. That’s a start.

Mickob71 · Saturday at 07:21

That’s the book you need to. It’s the bible

D1Nut · Saturday at 07:22

Mickob71 said:
90 per cent of the earth points on D1 are behind the radio on the bulk head , big spider of earth connections, corroded of loose. Sorted mine, and perfect now. That’s a start.

So if i take the radio out I can get to them with a normal hand - Are they all screwed onto 1 point or a couple of point's.
Definitely worth a try to sort out my multiple of electrical gremlins

thks for the heads up

Mickob71 · Saturday at 07:26

It was on mine, and it was radio out , and as much of the surrounding plastics, heater ducts etc , to get to the bulk head. It’s a faff, but worth it, I found out about this issue on this site and the solution, afternoon well spent.

Mickob71 · Saturday at 07:38

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Hope this helps with the electrical gremlins, I’ve just uploaded my copy for you .

Mickob71 · Saturday at 07:44

cannot find my digital copy of the workshop manual, but eBay will help you find one, hope the electrical one helps anyway.

nathanglasgow · Saturday at 08:38

If you can weld and fabricate to a decent standard and have covered workshop facilities and your labour time is free then it's all doable. Inner wings,sills and floorpan and chassis repair panels plus materials will run to over £1000 I'd guess. You will find more rust than you can see just now. If you can't weld and fabricate repair panels yourself then I'd be breaking it for parts.

Mickob71 · Saturday at 08:46

Good advice, not many garages want to work on older vehicles as well, they know the moment they start cutting and chasing the rust to find something to weld too, the cost is going to increase. Then you end up with a customer who’s not happy and a garage who could very well be out of pocket and a disco to dispose.
Once it’s done , fill the sills with waxoil and remove the plastic trims that fit over them, anything like that can hold mud, water, etc etc.
what area are you in??

Anaconda · Saturday at 08:57

If you are paying then most likely the welding will cost you more than the vehicle is worth.
ABS should be blindingly obvious if you have it, follow the pipes from master cylinder and see if they go into a square lump of Ali with a load of other brake pipes.
Change the fuel filter and check for any leaks or dodgy looking fuel pipes, would be a good start.

julianf · Saturday at 11:53

If its been run that day, but allowed to cool, does it then start in just the same way, or better?

If "better" i would suggest it could be somthing as simple as injector leak offs. If they get holes in them you get air come in when its not running, and fuel drain back, so then it takes a fair while to prime up again.

This often shows, however, by it firing almost instantly, and then stopping, and requiring a load more cranking again, and i think you might have mentioned this.

Dont attempt to pay someone else to weld a rusty disco. Buy a sensible welder, a 20ltr rent free tank, and the mask etc, and do it yourself.

Dont buy a crap gasless welder, and dont buy those little disposable gas tanks. If the welder is being sold with the selling point that it "comes with mask and gloves" it, basically, means (IMHO) that you should avoid it.

ABS servo is way fatter (dual diaphragm) than the standard. Google images for both, and you will easily be able to tell.

Stanleysteamer · Saturday at 14:02

You may have already sussed this, but there is a button in the middle of the window buttons that prevents people in the back operating their windows.

discool · Saturday at 15:12

BillyDisco1 said:
Hi all,

My first post here, I am the proud owner of a slightly rusty two tone Red and Grey Disco 1 with Discovery 150 running along the side of it.

The Discovery 150 was limited edition in 1996, not from the factory but a group of UK dealers and based on some similarities to the XS, such as XS wheels that are fitted

BillyDisco1 said:
Second issue is central locking with the key, both keys will lock the car but unlocking does not work, you need to put the key in the door to unlock it. When I do unlock the car with the key in the door it only unlocks 3 of the 4 doors (passenger door unlocks as in the lock is up but the door needs to be unlocked with the key to allow you to open the door), this could be an issue due to it sitting and it needs to be used more, anyone any ideas?

Central locking with key or fob, it’s ok to lock, but you need the fob to unlock otherwise the alarm will sound. If that don’t happen there’s an issue with the security system. Individual doors that don't lock/unlock may require a very slight readjustment to the lock actuator in that door.

BillyDisco1 said:
Fourth issue is I also had an issue once (out of about 10 times, has not happened in 8 tries) when turning it off where I turned the car off and removed the key but the engine stayed running, thankfully being a manual you can just stall it and it'll turn off but what is causing this and how do I fix it permanently?

Iffy stop solenoid or 12v supply to it maybe.

BillyDisco1 said:
Fifth issue is that I can lower all the windows using the console controls, but the rear buttons on the doors don't work, what do I need to do?

Check the inhibit switch on the console.

BillyDisco1 said:
Also how do I know if my car has ABS or doesn't have ABS I need to know so I don't order the wrong brake lines as mine are rotted on one side.

Look under the bonnet and on top of the near side inner wing just in front of the windscreen washer bottle, the ABS Matrix fitted, if ABS is fitted to your vehicle.

discool · Saturday at 15:17

Also a local earths connection point can be found under the dash behind the driver and passenger foot well kick panels.

Bruce2020 · Saturday at 18:50

I have a D1 and am teaching myself to weld as it wouldn’t be worth doing it if I paid someone else.
When I first started this journey I had a shed , now I have a workshop….. you get the idea.
Regarding your starting issue, check the fuel sender too.
It’s located in the boot under the carpet etc. there’s a round inspection cover.
Once removed it’ll be clear if corroded etc.
It’s an easy job and cheap too, grab one off of eBay for under £100.
Best of luck to you mate

Bruce2020 · Saturday at 18:59

BillyDisco1 said:
Hi all,

My first post here, I am the proud owner of a slightly rusty two tone Red and Grey Disco 1 with Discovery 150 running along the side of it as of about 4 days ago.

What I am looking for is advice on how to solve some issues with the car.

First issue is that the car takes a while to start, it turns over great will take about 10 seconds to catch twice and then starts and idles at 600-700rpm and sounds beautiful. The car had been sitting for approximately 8-10 years, and I have started it everyday sometimes multiple times a day since receiving it 4 days ago. When I looked at it 5 days ago the car had large plooms of black/grey smoke, this has now all but gone with just a light white smoke when running I believe due to me needing a new exhaust as the current one is rusted out. Any ideas what would be causing the long start?

Second issue is central locking with the key, both keys will lock the car but unlocking does not work, you need to put the key in the door to unlock it. When I do unlock the car with the key in the door it only unlocks 3 of the 4 doors (passenger door unlocks as in the lock is up but the door needs to be unlocked with the key to allow you to open the door), this could be an issue due to it sitting and it needs to be used more, anyone any ideas?

Third issue is chassis rust, can I get any welder to repair it? There is some large holes in the rear but for the most part the chassis is solid. There is a hole at the bottom of the B pillar on the drivers side, I can get this part online I have seen. There is rust on the rear right sky light. A hole into the bodywork just below the bottom left corner of the window. I will be getting all new seals for the windows and doors so I will expect to uncover more around this window especially. The lip on the roof has some surface rust which I expect to just grind off and put a coat of rust protector and then paint. Inside the rear driver side door there is rust on the arch. The boot door when you open it has some significant rust in one section on the lip in front of the door, is there a part online which I can buy and weld for this area? Would anyone have an approximation on how much in total I'm looking at for welding alone?

Fourth issue is I also had an issue once (out of about 10 times, has not happened in 8 tries) when turning it off where I turned the car off and removed the key but the engine stayed running, thankfully being a manual you can just stall it and it'll turn off but what is causing this and how do I fix it permanently?

Fifth issue is that I can lower all the windows using the console controls, but the rear buttons on the doors don't work, what do I need to do?

Also how do I know if my car has ABS or doesn't have ABS I need to know so I don't order the wrong brake lines as mine are rotted on one side.

Throughout my restoration of this Disco I will upload some photos and other issues as I encounter them.

If someone would be so kind as to give me a hand with some information regarding my Disco's issues it would be very much appreciated.

All the best,

Billy

Regarding your rear windows the solder joint can split on the PCB I know this as I have same issue. It’s a repair that was covered in LRO a few years ago.
You may have to learn to solder too mate.

resto_d1 · Saturday at 21:35

None of you are warning the man off! You’re encouraging him to get welders, workshops and start chucking all his time and money at it

.
OP - If you want the body done properly, its a long old journey. I enjoy restoring them back make sure it’s something you actually want/enjoy doing before starting.
I’ve spent a lot on one of mine and it’s nowhere near done. That’s very in depth though. Have a look at my “try again” thread and you’ll see what you’ll have in store.

1996 Land Rover Discovery 300TDi Restoration

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