1996 Defender

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Some
neilly said:
His may be EDC in which case he has 3 wires going to it. Even so, removing the thing is situ requires a cut down 24mm spanner.

Cheers
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Not sure it's an auto, neilly. ( By the way, I'm thinking of buying or making boxes to categorise the stuff on my garage shelves ;))
jamesmartin said:
no ,you have to break it to remove the security cover its secured by shear bolts, you have 3 wires in the loom to it ,you need one ignition live wire to feed the solenoid,
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That's interesting, because mine hasn't had a cover on it and I bought it when it was about 9 years old. So why would someone remove the cover so early in its life? Also JM, what are the other two wires for?
 
Al2O3 said:
Some

Not sure it's an auto, neilly. ( By the way, I'm thinking of buying or making boxes to categorise the stuff on my garage shelves ;))

That's interesting, because mine hasn't had a cover on it and I bought it when it was about 9 years old. So why would someone remove the cover so early in its life? Also JM, what are the other two wires for?
Click to expand...
its the type of immobilisation ,most use a standard pump with an exposed solenoid with a single wire like yours and a spider to cut it and starter feed, others use a solenoid covered by a security cap and it has 3 wires as the cap has to receive a signal as well a solenoid feed, it can be removed and set up like yours
 
Al2O3 said:
Some

Not sure it's an auto, neilly. ( By the way, I'm thinking of buying or making boxes to categorise the stuff on my garage shelves ;))

OK, I have not read the whole thread, Just realised it is in the fender section. But some of the later vehicles also had the 3 wire set up. I have heard it was when they were going over to TD5 setup and trying their foo foo magic at LR.

That's interesting, because mine hasn't had a cover on it and I bought it when it was about 9 years old. So why would someone remove the cover so early in its life? Also JM, what are the other two wires for?
Click to expand...

Cheers
 
jamesmartin said:
its the type of immobilisation ,most use a standard pump with an exposed solenoid with a single wire like yours and a spider to cut it and starter feed, others use a solenoid covered by a security cap and it has 3 wires as the cap has to receive a signal as well a solenoid feed, it can be removed and set up like yours
Click to expand...
Ahh, that makes sense!
Ooh, the spider. That's a blast from the past! What a pain in the bum that was :rolleyes:

neilly said:
Cheers
Click to expand...
Thought you'd be pleased to hear I was finally getting my act together! :D I'm considering some cheap wooden boxes from IKEA (haven't looked yet, but they'll probably sell something) But, I'll probably custom make some from ply. I doubt IKEA will do the range of sizes I'm going to need. :rolleyes: I'm not sure which box to put that carb cleaner in though :oops:
 
jamesmartin said:
no ,you have to break it to remove the security cover its secured by shear bolts, you have 3 wires in the loom to it ,you need one ignition live wire to feed the solenoid,
Click to expand...

Breaking into this is almost impossible.... but i guess thats the point. I have removed the plastic cover, but how do i cut the bolts without damaging the pump. Anglegrinder is a bit overkill :):)
Any tips??
 
DSC_0399.JPG.2b44ef71677c6cb9c1000587b954d142.JPG


Time to do some electrical work now..... These cable bundles seem to grow by the time...
 
Happiness is short lived.

Electric trouble this time... started a few days ago when i turned on the headlights. The wipers started also.... indicators works fine in the rear, but not in the front. The problems Come andre go and i dont understand where to start. Many points out the blue header joint Block behind the dashboard as the culprit. Any ideas on where to start..???
 
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Uppdate: The problems seem to centered around the wiperswitch or related to the wipers. When the switch is connected everything fu... up. When disconnected things go back to almosts normal. Pity I sold my spare wiper switch last week.
 
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Kurt Gustafson said:
Uppdate: The problems seem to centered around the wiperswitch. When it is connected everything fu... up. When disconnected things go back to almosts normal. Pity I sold my spare wiper switch last week.
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It may be your light switch. The headlights are powered via relay, so all of the current goes through the switch. As the switch ages it created more resistance and then starts to melt with the heat created. All sorts of mysterious electrical problems then happen. A melted light switch is a common problem.
 
Kurt Gustafson said:
Light switch was changed yesterday.. No change:(
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Then you need to check the condition of the earth points for your lights and wipers. Also, make sure the earth point to the gearbox is clean, shiny and allowing good conductivity. If the electricity can't take it's usual route to earth because of corrosion, it will take the next path (or paths) of least resistance. This is usually through other components causing the to operate to some extent.
 
Kurt Gustafson said:
Where do i find the earth connection point for the wipers?? I Think thats the best place to begin.
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I don't know :rolleyes: However, the best place to begin will be with the major earth connection to the gearbox. You will need a torch, but it's quite easy to get to. It's a short distance from the steering column to this connection, so the wiper earth may go directly there.
 
During my travel around the defender this show UP.... whats it for? Is it Just another plug with no function
 

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Kurt Gustafson said:
During my travel around the defender this show UP.... whats it for? Is it Just another plug with no function
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More than likely spare and in the wiring harness for another model. Do you have anything that doesn't work?
I'm on holiday and don't have access to my rebuild pictures to see if I had a spare connector there. Someone else might be along soon to confirm one way or the other.
 
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