1991 110 CSW Salisbury Diff freeplay??

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie
Full Member
Evening gurus.....

Question.....

When rolling to a halt, foot on clutch and light braking I get. Knocking noise and you feel it kicking to the knock.....appears to be from the rear but not sure.

Jacked up the rear, handbrake off and rotated the prop there appears to be a bit of free play in the diff....please see the vid attached.....



I have read that the Salisbury diff may have a bit of play in them....but would you reckon mine is excessive??

The prop UJs are solid and the front is new. The drive flanges look in good fettle too both front and rear.

Any thoughts?
 
Doesn't look too bad to me, have you had a look at the A frame ball joint (may be worth disconnecting it to have a proper feel as the weight on it can mask any looseness).
 
I'd have a close look at the A frame ball joint and mounting bushes. Test with a long breaker bar to overcome the weight issue. I had a big knock from as I thought, my salisbury diff, bought a complete new axle, the fitter said" by the way, did you know your A frame ball joint was disintegrating?"
Hmmmm....
 
Doesn't look too bad, a fair bit less than 1/8 turn.
If you can feel a knock, look to suspension, with the drivetrain unloaded you will only hear a clunk.
 
Thanks chaps, I had read about the 18th turn being normal, and mine seems to be a bit less than that.

I'll check the A Frame joint next week, although the gaiter looks reasonably new but that could hide all sorts of nasty underneath!

When i put on wheel on he deck and spun the other, as the wheel was slowing, the prop was momentarily stationary, then turned, then stationary again, as it did this, the clunky knocking noise did seem to appear, so whilst I am not discounting the Ball Joint.....I may take a closer look in he diff pan and see whats what!

Will keep you updated!
 
It seems quite a hollow sound. Are you sure it's all greased up good? Three nipples on the prop, diff oil (flush it if it's gotten low), swivels (don't trust the one-shot - check it), transfer box, gearbox, all are hollow and should have enough oil in to deaden sounds fairly well. Should be more of a "clack clack" than a "clank clank", if you know what I mean.
I'd get some extra grease and/or oil all over everything to prevent rust ;)
 
It seems quite a hollow sound. Are you sure it's all greased up good? Three nipples on the prop, diff oil (flush it if it's gotten low), swivels (don't trust the one-shot - check it), transfer box, gearbox, all are hollow and should have enough oil in to deaden sounds fairly well. Should be more of a "clack clack" than a "clank clank", if you know what I mean.
I'd get some extra grease and/or oil all over everything to prevent rust ;)
Props were last greased about 6 weeks ago, swivels done about 10-12 weeks ago....did use the one shot grease, but will check level on your recommendation.

Rear diff does have a bit of 'wetness' on the rear, so I will check the level, drain and refill and report back!

Transfer box and gearbox all done when I got the 110 in Nov last year along with the engine oil.

Is is closer to a 'Clank Clank' noise.....so will check on your recommendations!
 
Props were last greased about 6 weeks ago, swivels done about 10-12 weeks ago....did use the one shot grease, but will check level on your recommendation.

Rear diff does have a bit of 'wetness' on the rear, so I will check the level, drain and refill and report back!

Transfer box and gearbox all done when I got the 110 in Nov last year along with the engine oil.

Is is closer to a 'Clank Clank' noise.....so will check on your recommendations!
jack one rear wheel up hand brake hard on,you should feel first the drive member play then diff and then cwp
 
Engine and gearboxes all long overdue for a level check. Even if it doesn't need it, it's a good habit, which can save you some real trouble in the future.
 
It is worth slackening off the handbrake adjuster on the drum quite a bit an seeing what happens then, takes no time and rules that out.
 
Many thanks for all the input thus far.....
I wonder if I may pick your brains a little further.

Pulled the rear pan cover off the diff to take a gander inside, could you please review the video and see if the play between the Large helical gear (Crown gear is it??) and the pinion gear on the end of the propshaft is excessive....should there be any play? it is very small amount, and does make a bit of a clink noise as the two mesh.....



Could you knowledgeable chaps proffer some advice on this??

Mucho Obligato etc.
 
Many thanks for all the input thus far.....
I wonder if I may pick your brains a little further.

Pulled the rear pan cover off the diff to take a gander inside, could you please review the video and see if the play between the Large helical gear (Crown gear is it??) and the pinion gear on the end of the propshaft is excessive....should there be any play? it is very small amount, and does make a bit of a clink noise as the two mesh.....



Could you knowledgeable chaps proffer some advice on this??

Mucho Obligato etc.

that amount of crown wheel play is normal ,not bad actually for an old axle,there has to be more than a rover diff as its 3 times the size, free play is proportional
 
that amount of crown wheel play is normal ,not bad actually for an old axle,there has to be more than a rover diff as its 3 times the size, free play is proportional
Many thanks for you input James, it is appreciated. That puts my mind a little more at ease that the rear diff seems to be well....the vehicle has been looked after mechanically as most of the bolts I have had to undo in my ownership have done so without to much of a fight and about 75% of them had a coppa-slip tinge to them too, pity some of the bodywork and a tiny portion of the chassis has not been so meticulously maintained by the previous owner....but mechanical-wise she is (fingers crossed) good as gold!

I will refill the diff with fresh oil, and turn attention to the Transfer Box oil level next....
 
Back
Top