1987 ninety work in progress

have just called my parts guy .

spoke to them . cunifers actually cheaper per 25ft from them. - they say they still sell more copper than cunifer as coppers easier to work with.

for 14 quid i might buy a roll of cunifer and test it out.

ok , roll of cunifer bought - will report back how i get on when i get round to it - should it be pish ill be putting copper on.

although i do know my vans running copper atm - as replaced by the garage.

Those days where you wish you had a decent size garage- just looked at met office. forecast for heavy rain all weekend - i would pop in to bnq for a gazebo but i live ontop of a hill and it would just become a kite.

Anyone know what size the fitting into the mastercylinder should be on a 1987 - 90. Its bigger than m10 x 1 that the rest runs on.

nothing wrong with cupro, it's better than copper. it's just slightly harder to hand bend.

the bender shall be used..

tend not to use it with the copper unless doing really tight bends but they are a god send when doing stainless lines at work(plus id get marched out the door if i didnt use it) - much heavier wall as much higher pressure so cant see cupro being too much of an issue to bend.

use bender on kunifer ,,, kunifer always for me,,,,,,,but never had or seen probs with copper if fitted right , but it does work harden and the fatigue ,,,so it all comes down to personal preference ,regards GATSO

top drive said:

the bender shall be used..

tend not to use it with the copper unless doing really tight bends but they are a god send when doing stainless lines at work(plus id get marched out the door if i didnt use it) - much heavier wall as much higher pressure so cant see cupro being too much of an issue to bend.

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I bent my cupro ones by hand and now it looks like a primary school kid did them! I'm blaming the cupro now I know it is harder to bend than copper!

james6546 said:

I bent my cupro ones by hand and now it looks like a primary school kid did them! I'm blaming the cupro now I know it is harder to bend than copper!

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haha, i use one of the bending pliers, works alright

Stopped raining long enough for that to happen today.

Its now living under a car cover with weights on.

Back to finishing off the bulkhead now that i can move in my garage again - engine and box took up an unsurprising amount of room.

No photos its dark out but- thats the engine fully plumbed in save for the heater matrix.

Made up some custom fuel return line. And the feed from the 19j fitted perfectly
Pas is plumbed up- used the 19j pipes and thus the 19j pas pump..fits on the fender bracket.

Gonna put the 19j alternator on too as then the plug can put back on instead of chopping it up ( unless its a much lower rated alternator- but my understanding was its a straigt swap)

Need to get the crankshaft pulley off my 19j and use that. Didnt notice that was missing :/from my 200. And get all the belts plumbed up.

Got my front prop on and my old bumper off. Gonna have to replace 3 of the crush tubes up front 2 for the bumper and both the tie down ring/jate ring bolts.

Have fitted vilguys old winch bumper to get an idea of how it looks .. Very good.

Found out my strut tops protrude through the wings along way,

Looks like its back to my bulkhead, grinding , seam welding - its all tacked up. Seam sealer and a bit of filler

Looked at under my tub- the front to back t profiles - one or 2 of them are rotten but the left to rigt ones - although full of mud are solid( hammer tested them) .some even have original paint on still. Will need to drill the rivets and get em off and cleaned/painted and maybe see about riveting in some repairs to the damaged front to back ones.

Cant help but think filling these profiles with something thqt doesnt hold moisture could be a bad idea..... They are a Terrible design.

Loads of painting. Will be a while before i get another big progress day.

Any progress is good mate, I learnt that on my rebuild.
Well kind of, I still kick myself when I have a bad day, Just not as much.
I think it helps putting it on here so you can see what you've done so far.
Rolling chassis with engine and box in felt like a milestone for me, Which is where you're at and is looking good

Looking really great well done keep going your nearly there .... ish

best way to replace the crush tubes ?

was thinking id just drill a hole in one side -slide it in and weld it to the other side - then plate and weld the other side ? - seems like the only logical way to do it and get a tight fit to act as anti crush.

oh and any help on my decision of .....

original stratos blue vs marine blue -that our old series was back in the 90s.

16MM OD X 10MM ID (3MM WALL) CDS STEEL TUBE X 400 MM | eBay

which is handy as i recieved a 16mm jobber bit for counterboring my flywheel housing on saturday ... ordered to do a job i never had to do in the end.

so ill just drill a hole with that - pushin the crush tube, weld round it and grind flush. job done.

Found the other 9x20ft of my working garage floor tonight.

Should be able to get working on my bulkhead in there now as ive been rained off from working all week so far.

My rear storage prefab concrete unit looks like a badly packed cupboard!

Time to get the bulkhead finished.

I would probably say Stratos blue would be more fitting, but marine blue would be a bit different

before


big pile of stuff by the door engines/parts/roofs etc.... - couldnt get in easy.
after

just found a photo of stratos blue that makes it look goooood.

im mind atm its the scrappy blue that my land rover currently is - but someone elses looks good.

The only other colour id like it rowan brown but that seems to be like rocking horse poo to buy so its out.

and doing it stratos blue again means that i can be a little less fussy when it comes to 100% coverage - i wont have an odd panel looking at me if i miss something.

need to repair the manifold on my compressor before i can spray anything - parts are on their way - more importantly i need to grind back seam weld and seam seal my bulkhead

Urggh... Need a new facemask.

Been working in the garage cleaning up inner wings and all the cappings/ repair panels for the rear tub body mounts and seatbelt mounts.

All galv primed now though, hopefully good weather on the weekend and i can get the tub primed under the cappings and reassembled.

progress hindered slightly although i have acquired a months supply of innes and gun for doing a brake disc and pad swap on my mates clio. his disks were actually rotten on the inner faces and he wondered why they were pulsing under foot. - 10 bolts a side on the eurobox - less than an hours work - spent longer having bacon rolls/coffee/bull**** afterwards.

i did get him to help me lift the tub onto the chassis though so i could work on it there.







seatbelt mount corrosion - - got the YRM pieces to sandwich that panel above and below with lots of seam sealer between.



striker post eaten alive - again got the repair panels to fit.



Can you get that sticker/badge any more - had quck look on ebay and didnt see much like that -and for true athenticity i feel i should have a "turbo D" under there as well like the 19js used to have

can you get replacement flyscreens to rivet into the bulkheads - my bulkhead fell over on saturday while i was working on it and the jack handle went through the fecking passengers side fly screen - made a right mess... id i cant ill retro fit my frames with something out of bnq but would be easier to buy at this stage - apparently i have 220 days till completion/testing.