1987 ninety work in progress

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Rest of my looms here wooooo .

Looks like i need to chop down the fuel tank sub loom a bit as it hooks up in a different place to the other dont want the excess hangin down about the prop.

Also got a 34mm spanner for the steering box drop arm bolt - couldnt get my 48" stihlsons in for the panhard rod :mad:

My welding wires here also so i can get my front dumb iron strengthening done. Used the last of mine sorting a gate for my pops.

Best of all.... The mrs is on a hen night this weekend so i Can get stuff done , although i have to go down the road sunday night for mothers day or ill be dead haha.

Had to order a new steering feed pipe , put fluid into reservoir and threw on all the belts....started engine and started turning left and right....hissing . Look under and its dripping out the centre of the front most cross member :(

Then i did the clutch , bled it up and then went to try it and it was leaking from the flex to the small kinked pipe thread. Guess its not tight, hope its the right thread, i just got the standard lt77 4cyl pipe.
 
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We have electrics .

All round , like everywhere.

Only annoying part is my diff lock light sensor has packed in it seems .

Dash lights up - if i short the cable out on the gear box but on the diff lock sensor it does nothing, it did last week arrgh.

All i have to do is drill the earth bolts into inner wings and chassis. If only i could get the clutch flexy tight now that would be fine but its not playing.


New steering pipe will be here monday. Woo
 
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Drivers side not far off done... Painted my headlight surrounds black with black flexible vinyl paint , going to do the spats too. Kinda liked the faded look but i have one red primer'd spat due to. Previous repair.

Sorted out the earths at the rear tonight ,linked the tub to some earth posts i fitted in the tub.- that is i drilled a hole and fitted a bolt through the earth from chassis , up to the tub then bolted it down . Then bolted the eyes from the lighting earths to that. Ditched that jump lead you see in the photos. My rear wiring sweet as a nut and finished. My drivers wirings sorted with the same earth post arrangement oon the inner wing and all the cables run in the right places between the inner/outer wing in its clips,

I also cut open the passengers dumb iron and renewed the crush tubes in the recovery points and bumper mounts , and patched up some light rot on the inside where the front crossmember is welded on.

Got my steering drop arm off yesterday. No prizes for guessing how.

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Going forward this week i plan to remove the old chassis loom , bleed the clutch , fill the rear diff up and turn the thing round. Give the neighbours summat to talk about and make it easier to finish the passengers side.
 
Oh also any clues where the white grey trace fuel light wire connects in the engine bay ? Ive got the fuel gauge wire working but i cannot for the life of me find a white grey to connect it to. It worked with my old dash loom....but that said i cant find a white grey on my old loom either so any ideas.....
 
aye - cannae wait till i get that mot cert....

quick one... i originally wanted to paint that set of standard steelies (5.5 inch? )in the back of that picture lime stone and fit 7.50x16s on - how ever it appears 7.50 tires are pricy

can get 235/85/r16s for much nicer price - BFG mud K2s for 120 a corner. where as im still in remould country for 7.50s at that price.

am i right in thinking the 7.50s would ahve gone on the steel rims but with the 235/85/r16s i will have to paint and use the disco steelies - as they will be 7"?
 
Coming back together nicely :) Looks good too with the 'period correct' badges and such- embracing its 1980s origins rather than trying to disguise it. I'm taking the same approach with my 90 which has the original county stripes :D
 
FlyingPete said:
Coming back together nicely :) Looks good too with the 'period correct' badges and such- embracing its 1980s origins rather than trying to disguise it. I'm taking the same approach with my 90 which has the original county stripes :D
Click to expand...

Good! :)

You see some of these things running around, the only original bit on it is the number plates :rolleyes: :D
 
aww hell yeah . although i have gone to town modifying the suspension and the interior ..... i want the outside to look "relitively" factory hence i went for the marine blue /limestone combo , the coloured LED lights - and what ever wheels i get will be limestone too, Although i want tall narrow tires as per what they would have come with as although ill be doing RTVs and punch challenge (not winch challenge - its more driving through the local woods collecting punches than traditional winch punch challenge car wreaker ) i dont feel i need big wide massive 285 special tracks .... id like it to have some road manors.

Ive got an original Landrover 90 sticker for the slam panel too - how ever that will be the last bit fitted.
 
top drive said:
aww hell yeah . although i have gone to town modifying the suspension and the interior ..... i want the outside to look "relitively" factory hence i went for the marine blue /limestone combo , the coloured LED lights - and what ever wheels i get will be limestone too, Although i want tall narrow tires as per what they would have come with as although ill be doing RTVs and punch challenge (not winch challenge - its more driving through the local woods collecting punches than traditional winch punch challenge car wreaker ) i dont feel i need big wide massive 285 special tracks .... id like it to have some road manors.

Ive got an original Landrover 90 sticker for the slam panel too - how ever that will be the last bit fitted.
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Yours is still recognisable as a classic vehicle :cool:, although tastefully modernised. :)

Wide tyres can be a real problem out laning, some of the places we go you scrub the sidewalls on rocks both sides anyway. And your wheel bearings will thank you for it!:D

Shame you can find any 7.50 16s at a good price, I aways thought they were a good size for old landies, like you say, tall and thin.
 
can get remoulds for 70-100 quid a corner in 7.50 flavour but i still cant see these being a more favourable option than bfg muds....

they have kingpin tracker MTs for 80 quid a corner - these are ****e , had them before , nigh on impossible to balance and perished in 6 months.

turbo saharas are 95 quid a corner

the michelin XZLs the army use look good at 130 quid a corner , my mate has them on his 110.

fedima partners at 85 a corner


the BFG in 235/85 still looks like the best tire at 120 a corner. I also need 5 (and only have 4 x 5.5 steelies).... as all my wheels are on 205s and i want a spare up on the bonnet for the full old school look.
 
top drive said:
aww hell yeah . although i have gone to town modifying the suspension and the interior ..... i want the outside to look "relitively" factory hence i went for the marine blue /limestone combo , the coloured LED lights - and what ever wheels i get will be limestone too, Although i want tall narrow tires as per what they would have come with as although ill be doing RTVs and punch challenge (not winch challenge - its more driving through the local woods collecting punches than traditional winch punch challenge car wreaker ) i dont feel i need big wide massive 285 special tracks .... id like it to have some road manors.

Ive got an original Landrover 90 sticker for the slam panel too - how ever that will be the last bit fitted.
Click to expand...

This is the way forward I think. As you said there's a few changes here and there, but from normal viewing distances it still appears standard. Seems that whatever wacky modifications you make to an old landy, you're no less likely to meet someone coming the other way who's done the exact same thing. It's good to do something different by not changing the appearance :D

The proper 'land rover 90' sticker is another good detail- most people would shove a 'defender' one on there instead.
 
top drive said:
can get remoulds for 70-100 quid a corner in 7.50 flavour but i still cant see these being a more favourable option than bfg muds....

they have kingpin tracker MTs for 80 quid a corner - these are ****e , had them before , nigh on impossible to balance and perished in 6 months.

turbo saharas are 95 quid a corner

the michelin XZLs the army use look good at 130 quid a corner , my mate has them on his 110.

fedima partners at 85 a corner


the BFG in 235/85 still looks like the best tire at 120 a corner. I also need 5 (and only have 4 x 5.5 steelies).... as all my wheels are on 205s and i want a spare up on the bonnet for the full old school look.
Click to expand...

Not heard good things about Kingpin at all :(

Shocked that saharas are that much now, £55 each about four years ago, when I got mine. I like them, although some say they don't last as long as premium brands, and I am sure they are right, but my 90 only does about 3k a year, and I have several sets of wheels.

Bet the Michelins are good, but at that money they want to be! :eek::D
 
Saharas are much cheaper in 205 and 236/70r16 its the 7.50 ness that bumps the cost up.

In other news my dinky steering wheel turned up so i will be getting started with the interior where i left off .... Assuming i can get behind the wheel with the small wheel in place.
 
I need to make some mods to make my seats bolt in to existing holes.

am i going mad or are mud rails just 25 x 25 box with a notch cut in and a steep price tag ?

I dont even need the notch as my seats have a decent length of adjustment on them !

25x25 x 2.5 mm box appears to be 10 quid inc vat for 3metres at my supplier !

does anyone have the front to back measurements of a seat box to hand ? im at work !
 
25 x 25 x 1.2 box downstairs at work FOC ..... i think ill live with that - still thicker than the aluminium the M8s go through

Other option is 2.1/4 x 1 1/4 x 2.5 powdercoated steel i

Is 2.5mm box the prefered option or you reckon id be ok with the 1.2 - afterall its mucho thicker than the seat box is at the moment....... although id feel better with the 2.5.
 
Oh aye. I know your seat has to be adjustble for mot.... Is there a limit at the lower end of adjustment ? Mines moves for and aft about 2 inches... The bit round your head hits the door frame before the seat comes right forward.... Best find a tall moter :)
 
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