1976 series 3 rebuild

samc88 · Feb 26, 2013

Dr_evil said:
Come on then wheres the pics!

Hang on I've been in the garage, dedicated me yeah after getting a filling this afternoon in my tooth. I'm uploading them to photobucket, theres not many I'm afraid

Land Raver, yes the chassis will get another couple more coats of red oxide and then have a couple of coats of black paint on top of that. I'll get some waxoyl as well to inject in the chassis.

samc88 · Feb 26, 2013

Ok then, here are the promised pictures;

Front end practically done, the axle/ steeringy bits still needs more cleaning up and touch ups in a couple of places

The middle bit

I was in the garage tonight for a bit so decided to start to clean the air filter and give it a coat of red-oxide (i painted the inside of the top bit as well its only on the body so I could paint round the outside).

I wouldn't call it lightning fast progress but its progress all the same

stutab · Feb 26, 2013

Looking good, you are getting on faster than me wif my little project.. Keep it up, I might even get the S3 I have always wanted.

90truckcab · Feb 26, 2013

stutab said:
Looking good, you are getting on faster than me wif my little project.. Keep it up, I might even get the S3 I have always wanted.

series 3 ...... pah

ther orrible !

blue beasty · Feb 26, 2013

90truckcab said:
series 3 ...... pah ther orrible !

It all went wrong when they introduced a plastic rad grill

Downhill ever since

stutab · Feb 26, 2013

90truckcab said:
series 3 ...... pah ther orrible !

Now now

samc88 · Mar 2, 2013

The tub was dragged outside to scrape the quarter inch of muck that was under neath it. We soaked it in degreaser and left it overnight.Most of it was scraped off but in the end we put the pressure washer on it. Theres only 2 small holes in the crossmembers that need welding and a couple of other small things on the tub itself that need doing (such as small holes in the floor)

monster1971 · Mar 6, 2013

the bottom of the tub on mine was a bit naff and i managed to pick up a bit of checker plate from my local scrappy for a tenner ,it was easier to change whilst tub is off
well done by the way

Rhys25 · Mar 7, 2013

Great stuff, enjoying following the rebuild

90truckcab · Mar 9, 2013

monster1971 said:
the bottom of the tub on mine was a bit naff and i managed to pick up a bit of checker plate from my local scrappy for a tenner ,it was easier to change whilst tub is off
well done by the way

same ere

samc88 · Mar 24, 2013

Sorry for the lack of updates but the absence means more work has been done

The tub was taken outside so we could clean all of the muck off the bottom. We started with wallpaper scrapers and then resorted to using the jet wash to result in a clean tub.

The fuel tank was cleaned and given a coat of red oxide

We then proceeded to take the dash board off. We've got a lot of pictures of how this all fits together so hopefully this might help somebody

Front vents were removed (we'll be replacing these seals)

Some of the dashboard wiring

Dashboard off the vehicle

The heater control mechanism (the wire connecting one lever to the vent was snapped so will be replaced)

The fusebox (a new fusebox with modern fuses and relays will be used when it comes to rewire the vehicle). For anyone unsure of where the original fusebox is, it is located underneath the steering wheel

samc88 · Mar 24, 2013

The front propshaft was removed

The rest of the welding was then attended to

Drivers side front outrigger where the end had corroded. The end was cut out and a new square piece of steel was offered up and MIG welded to the chassis.

There was also a hole on the fuel tank outrigger that needed sorting so the area around the hole was cut out and a piece of steel was welded in its place.

A small hole in the bump stop bracket was filled with weld

Meanwhile, the front propshaft was stripped of its red hammerite and given a coat of redoxide. Whilst the red oxide was out I gave the rest of the air filter a coat.

The windscreen was removed by undoing the bolts holding it to the hinges. The rivets holding the mesh behind the vents were drilled out

Some of the rust that was found when the vents and dash board were removed. These areas will be fixed by welding new steel to replace the rotten metal.

The surface rust behind the windscreen was given a coat of ku-rust which will stop the corrosion before it gets too bad.

Other than these areas and the footwells, the bulkhead isn't too bad at all.

The windscreen wiper mechanism (motor and screenwash jets) were then removed

This nut on the wiper needs to be loosened to allow the wiper to slide off the shaft

This nut can then be undone and the wiper spindle should be able to go into the cab area, making the whole assembly a bit easier to remove. Before taking it all off the bulkhead, the motor was supported by rope around the bulkhead to prevent it dropping and causing damage.

samc88 · Mar 24, 2013

When cleaning the front end of the chassis, a small hole was found in the front drivers side dumb iron which was then repaired by welding

A new earth bolt was also welded to the chassis in the back end. This was done so that we could have more earth points to run the wires to and should help if any problems with earths arise in the future. (the tube is just to mask it whilst painting the weld with the red oxide)

Holes were also found in the bulkhead crossmembers which were welded up and then the crossmembers were given a coat of red-oxide

A shot of the rusted drivers side footwell

The 4 way brake pipe fitting on the chassis near the engine bay, this was retained along with other brake fittings (just in case)

The chassis on the drivers side all given a coat of red oxide

samc88 · Mar 24, 2013

To give the chassis extra protection, we borrowed some international grey/ silver 2-pack paint that we used to paint the chassis and the underside of the tub. This will hopefully give the chassis an extra layer of protection. It will be painted gloss black over the top of this. In this colour the chassis looks like a galvanised one

More work on the dashboard, this time to fix the heater vent which had the snapped wire from the vent control in it and was siezed.

There are 18 of these small slot headed screws that hold the dashboard bottom in place. Some were stubborn to get out so required the use of a hammer hitting the end of the screw driver whilst trying to turn it to help free them. In this process the vent mechanism (really 2 plates attached to a bar and a piece of spring steel) came free.

The vent mechanism in operation, it is really simple

The wire that had snapped

The dashboard underside (the steel bits) were given a coat of ku-rust

samc88 · Mar 24, 2013

The sender unit was temporarily removed to check the bottom of the tank inside (thank you for that advice

) and we found that is clean inside. Before taking the sender out we marked the position of how it went on, just in case we forgot and put it in the wrong position for the wires that connect to the tank). There is a rubber gasket underneath the plate.

The axle was given a coat of black (some gloss paint bought from wilkinsons)

The bottom of the fuel tank and one side was painted as well

We then proceeded to paint the chassis

samc88 · Mar 24, 2013

Todays work:

Painted both propshafts, finished painting the fuel tank and gave the dashboard a coat of red oxide (seen standing up against the trailer we made)

crashbox · Mar 24, 2013

Keep up the good work.

honolulujoe · Mar 24, 2013

wow, tremendous effort, i like the detail with the explanations

waldershelf · Mar 24, 2013

I've got a S111 to look at tomorrow with a heater vent problem your pictures have jogged my memory as to how it all goes together.:5bcheers2:

onecelledcreature · Mar 24, 2013

glad you've had the time to write this all up so clearly,

looks great so far

1976 series 3 rebuild

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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