1968 series 2a restoration

Series 2a Mark · Mar 13, 2020

Yeah that's it. I thought mines was faulty but it turns out because I hadn't bled brakes through it was operating. Got it working last night. Just the reverse lights to get working next!

Rodeo Joe · Mar 13, 2020

Series 2a Mark said:
Yeah that's it. I thought mines was faulty but it turns out because I hadn't bled brakes through it was operating. Got it working last night. Just the reverse lights to get working next!

Yes seen it in the book never seen one on a vehicle though.

Series 2a Mark · Mar 13, 2020

So I did a full oil change tonight with new filter installed last night after I had drained down yesterday. Filled up with 6ltrs and then gave the car a quick turn over for 15mins to get oil moving through engine and to check for leaks. (There were none thankfully) bit one thing I wanted to check was, should I have expected to see the oil pressure light come on when i first started up? I had nothing. Thanks, mark

kermit_rr · Mar 13, 2020

The light comes on when there is no oil pressure so should be on as soon as you turn on the ignition

Operating the starter for an extended period will burn it out

Series 2a Mark · Mar 13, 2020

Great thanks. So for the sake of the cheap cost of a replacement would you just replace? Thinking of it, I don't get any lights on apart from charge light, should I be checking anything else ? Thanks

rob1miles · Mar 14, 2020

Find the oil pressure switch (not always that easy) take the wire off and earth it, with ign on the oil light should come on. If its does its the swich, if it doesn't it most likely the bulb,

Series 2a Mark · Mar 28, 2020

Been busy that last week or so and managed to strip the roof , side panels and tub off. The rear cross member fell off when I cut through a couple of stuck bolts in the tub to crossmember brackets. The chassis is really bad. The rear half chassis arrived the other day so that's my next job once I get the rear axle stripped off the springs etc. I also got a fair bit of 3mm plate and I intend of cutting all rot / suspect areas out and replaced before rust treating full chassis flowed by two coats of red oxide then a decent chassis paint. Recon il end up with more newly fabricated chassis than original. I've also got all new outriggers to replace old. Going to keep me busy. Any tips or hints please share as it's my first project, still really enjoying working on it! Cheers, mark

Rodeo Joe · Mar 28, 2020

If you've still got the chassis number try and keep it in situ if you have to weld the dumb irons. Usually the bit with the number stamped into it survives but everything else around it falls to bits.

Series 2a Mark · Mar 28, 2020

Cheers, yeah il have to weld parts of the dumb irons so will attempt to keep the stamped number in situ. At this rate it will be the only part of original chassis. I understand most would just replace with new replacement galv chassis but a mixture of funds, space and time won't allow. I only have my drive to work on and no space to set up another chassis to swap everything over etc, looking forward to a welding CHALLENGE.

steve2286w · Mar 28, 2020

That’s a rotten chassis , I would have a search on here and see how to do the half chassis replacement , obviously lots of pre measurements before it comes apart but you might have missed that step as it fell apart , I can’t recall if the spring hanger bolts unscrew once nuts removed , if these are on new bit not so much a concern
The spring leaves can clean up with angle grinder or methods below
For the axles a good way to clean them up is electrolysis Gets the thick of rust off and works while you’re on with another job, just need a 12 v battery and charger with some soda crystals - it’s like magic
Keep the pics coming

Series 2a Mark · Mar 28, 2020

The half chassis I received looks like it buts up against the mid crossmember, il double check of a drawing but I'm assuming if butt this tight up to cross member it will be the correct set up. I've never heard of the electrolysis route for cleaning, il need to look into that. I was just. going to wire brush in grinder it then two coats of primer then black. It will be great to see the rust gone and some new decent metal in there to build her back up on.

Series 2a Mark · Mar 28, 2020

If possible of you think I could salvage the springs and just wire brush/grinder on them then oil them really well? Or would I be able to paint them? Cheers

steve2286w · Mar 28, 2020

I decided to reuse mine on the front I thought if they were original I’ll clean them up and not risk duff aftermarket bits

this is a good site
http://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/

kermit_rr · Mar 28, 2020

From those pics, you'd need to split the springs, get all the rust off then put them back together, not easy.
As far as the replacement chassis, be very careful with your measurements, you don't want it even 1/4" too short or nothing will fit.

steve2286w · Mar 28, 2020

You split then right down and then need some 3/8 rivets to keep the clamps on, 8mm bolts or the especial,part no to bolt then together and then some black bar about 5mm x 20-25mm to make some new clamps if they break.

Series 2a Mark · Mar 28, 2020

Thanks guys for the advice! Managed to get them off the axle tonight. Wow! What a state.. I'm
Keen to keep it as original as possible and reuse where possible but I also understand there is no point in using something that's shot! What do you think of these? When it comes to the chassis I'm really going to take my time and set up properly with measurements and keep checking. The cross member that I was going to but up again looks like it's about as thick as a coke can in places so that's another fabricating job il need to do first.. They are adding up!!

steve2286w · Mar 28, 2020

It’s worth having a go once they’re split it’s quick to run a grinder with disc on each side
The rust is forcing them apart so you either need a decent vice on a bench or a couple of large G. Lamps to clamp them before cutting off the securing bolt then unclamp them a bit at a time until pressure off and then reassemble same way

Series 2a Mark · Mar 28, 2020

Brilliant! Thanks for adding that image of the parts too, I think I have some 5mm bar about, will make up some clamps for the ones that are missing /broken. Once I clean them and give them a good undercoat and paint, would you smear them with grease before
Reassembling?

kermit_rr · Mar 28, 2020

They aren't greased from new. My opinion is any grease in there would hold debris, which you don't want

Series 2a Mark · Mar 28, 2020

That's true. Probably best not then and it means I can give them a good hose out of debris now and then to keep them clean.

1968 series 2a restoration

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