1965 Series 2a Station Wagon in Holland

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More nice series 2a bits - feetcha's as an Estate Agent might say

Cutting the hinge pins on a door hinge =>

1965 series 2a station wagon cutting door hinge pins.JPG


(Got a feeling that might bite me on the bottom)

Centre horn push (from steering wheel).

1965 series 2a station wagon centre horn push1.JPG


Is meant to twist out once little tab has been lifted - needed a bit of help.

1965 series 2a station wagon centre horn push2.JPG
 
Stretch said:
One of my Craddocks orders got here today so I've been fitting stuff to stuff

View attachment 107541 View attachment 107542

Replacement flywheel is now ready to go on (wrapped up and in the roof space).

I've been fitting bearings to differentials too but have struck another delay with shims - dag nam it - there's always something.

Today, however, was a red letter day.

FIRST BIT OF GREEN!

View attachment 107543

I know this isn't much (just a bit of steel that goes on the transmission tunnel for the high : low range selector on the gearbox) but it was good to see how the coach enamel from the paint man performs. I t d r i e s s o o o o o s l o w l y...

...holy crap it is going to give a whole heap of trouble later on - I can just feel it. Keeping it dust free during drying is going to be a struggle.

Still it looks like it will harden to a pretty good finish. May be I can buff out the dead flies in the 50 dollar paint job manner (http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html)

When I sprayed it first I was really worried I had been given the wrong colour. When it went on it looked like some sort of yellow green poo. Had me thinking oh crap all of it has to go back - but as it dried it changed colour. Well weird. Just as well it did!
Click to expand...

If it needs heat to dry the paint quicker you could try the old trick the carbon fibre guys do. Build an oven with some sheets of foam insulation and stick a heater in it. If you have the space it can be pretty big so whole panels can go in and if you want to get fancy you can even have a thermostat to control the temp.
 
Alibro said:
If it needs heat to dry the paint quicker you could try the old trick the carbon fibre guys do. Build an oven with some sheets of foam insulation and stick a heater in it. If you have the space it can be pretty big so whole panels can go in and if you want to get fancy you can even have a thermostat to control the temp.
Click to expand...
In this case the temperature isn't dreadful. Last week it was 30 plus (Deg C) and even now it is still a bit above 20. I think the problem is more air circulation. Had to put up that sodding grape saving green house and it has really buggered up the paint drying times. Still the "me grapes" are good...

...I will, however, probably have to build something like you suggest if only to stop the dust in the warehouse where the larger parts of the Land Rover live. When I come to paint those bits the dust is going to be a real problem.
 
Went shopping today.

(What fun)

Got myself a replacement air filter so I can take my time trying to find a better solution than grey Hammerite for the original.

1965 series 2a station wagon replacement air filter1.JPG


Surprisingly (or perhaps not) this one was also originally in that grey colour - but I'm guessing it is a later version because the clips for the oil bath bit are different.

My original one had metal plate and rivet clips (see previous post) and this one has a simpler wire configuration which as it happens is easier to paint.

So this one will be stripped and painted black (to fit in with the majority of people on this forum who think "they are all black" anyway).

Nice and easy quick solution to finding suitable grey paint. I have a mate in the UK who has found some original Hammerite but I'm not even sure if that's gonna be the correct finish I'm looking for - so I've got a feeling this paint problem will continue to be a bit of a problem for a while longer - hence the emergency stop gap solution.
 
Oh my giddy aunt! The engine block has been re-bored and is ready to be collected - the crank hasn't even got here from Craddocks yet - still at least I can go and collect it (the block etc) tomorrow and carry on with the balancing of the pistons (need the forth before I swap and grade and then lighten the heaviest ones).

I also have to wait for the new conrods to get here before I can check / do those.

Still just as well I got the engine oil pump in bits.

You can tell the Land Rover spent most of its like on a farm: There was grass in the filter mesh! (No it wasn't special Dutch grass - it was common English green green grass of home grass)

1965 series 2a station wagon oil pump1.JPG


The sides of the housing look in OK condition (no scoring)

1965 series 2a station wagon oil pump2.JPG


The cogs, however, don't look too great - uneven wear on them. These are going to be changed. (Parts already on order)

1965 series 2a station wagon oil pump3.JPG


Pump parts are currently soaking in degreaser so I can get the relief valve parts out - bit stuck in the gunk

[RANT] Why do diesel engine owners think it is OK to leave engines with this gritty **** in them for so long just because "the oil goes black so quickly anyway"? Silly behaviour - change the engine oil more frequently numpties! [/RANT]
 
I have never understood why anyone would spend hundreds of pounds on an engine then not buy a complete oil pump , false economy in my opinion
 
Bulkhead vents:

These are STUCK - seriously STUCK

They have been soaking in good quality penetrating oil for ages and they will hardly move. So I've decided to make a modification => I'm going to fit nylon / plastic washers instead of the metal ones that have rusted the joints fast.

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead vent levers1.JPG



1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead vent levers2.JPG


Joints are a simple rivet and washer configuration =>

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead vent levers3.JPG


When it goes wrong and the joint seize: "I can open it Dad" enthusiasm makes the metal connecting rod form into some pretty impressive curves

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead vent levers4.JPG


Yee haar Grandma

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead vent levers5.JPG


So I've drilled out the rivets and knocked them out so I can make the more modern hopefully longer lasting modification (I don't know if others have done this - perhaps - perhaps not - but seems like a plan)

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead vent levers6.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead vent levers7.JPG


I actually quite like the look of the patina on these parts so I think I'll be degreasing and then trying some of that gucci Eastwoods patina protecting spray over varnish before I put them all back together.
 
Moron said:
I have never understood why anyone would spend hundreds of pounds on an engine then not buy a complete oil pump , false economy in my opinion
Click to expand...
Well in my case - and in my defence - I'd rather check the condition of a pump and make sure it is OK before I fit it. By stripping down the old one and making sure everything within the pump will work I think (and hope) I'm making a sensible step. I'm renewing the spring for the relief valve and if I find something wrong with the other parts within the pump they too will be replaced so that it will be as good as new.

####

After rebuilding the engine I will be performing several (common sense?) checks such as oil pressure readings and visual checks to make sure the lubrication system is operating correctly over the top end of the engine before the engine is actually fired into life. I need to read up on the subject a bit, as at the moment I'm not sure where to make the oil pressure measurements just yet, but I'm sure it'll all be in the green book some where.
 
Disaster.

I've had red letter days - this is a vae diei (in the theme of QE2 and her anno horribilis gawd bless er)

Had to use filler

Ug!

I'm not proud but there is no reasonable way of getting a nice finish on the horn push

1965 series 2a station wagon oh no a bit of filler.JPG


With out a bit of filler (on the now treated rusty part) it will look more like I've had a go at it with Hammerite. Not what I want on that bit. The whole assembly would need to be replaced which is a bit OTT if I'm trying to keep things original now.

I'd prefer to repair and keep it honest but it will look right ham shank if it ain't smooth.
 
I thought I could get away with it but it looks like I'll need to add on small amounts of filler on some of the corrosion pitting.

Here's an example of a bit of aluminium (I can't remember where this panel goes - sorry). The pitting wasn't too too bad so after some intensive sanding I reckoned it might be OK, but after a guide coat of the bronze green enamel it was obviously not going to be appropriate (!)

1965 series 2a station wagon dealing with corrosion on aluminium1.JPG



1965 series 2a station wagon dealing with corrosion on aluminium2.JPG


I thought I might get away with a light sand and then a quick coat of spray filler but saw quite quickly that the enamel reacts with "normal" thinners...

1965 series 2a station wagon dealing with corrosion on aluminium3.JPG


...so I had to strip it right back.

(To be continued)
 
Anyone here ever stripped the tray that holds the battery and the air filter before?

1965 series 2a station wagon battery and air filter tray in epoxy primer.JPG


If so I bet you also don't want to do that again!
 
Probably teaching you to suck eggs here but be careful how coarse you go with the sandpaper. I once sanded alloy wheels that were very corroded and went a bit rough, 60 grade I think, but I never got rid of the scratches. :( A DA sander is the way to go.
 
Alibro said:
Probably teaching you to suck eggs here but be careful how coarse you go with the sandpaper. I once sanded alloy wheels that were very corroded and went a bit rough, 60 grade I think, but I never got rid of the scratches. :( A DA sander is the way to go.
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I know what you mean - also quite easy to scratch with drill mounted rotary wire brushes (the angle grinder version is most certainly gonna cause destruction).

I'm still experimenting trying to find the best paint removal paper at the moment for my little B&D mouse. For the larger panels I've got a 125mm orbital sander though / fortunately
 
Progress delay - busy doing Mercedes things...

...still managed to remember to take a few pictures of the machined block though

1965 series 2a station wagon engine block after machining1.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon engine block after machining2.JPG


'ad a quick go on the outside with an angle grinder and wire brush for the paint but it is well fiddly - need to take more time on the outside to make sure the paint sticks - can't rush it...
 
[QUOT="Stretch, post: 3826987, member: 128695"]Progress delay - busy doing Mercedes things...

...still managed to remember to take a few pictures of the machined block though

View attachment 107933

View attachment 107934

'ad a quick go on the outside with an angle grinder and wire brush for the paint but it is well fiddly - need to take more time on the outside to make sure the paint sticks - can't rush it...[/QUOTE]
That looks great.
Going back to something earlier in the thread. I was cleaning the inside of my back axle casing today and I remembered you posting about the paint inside. Just to let you know that mine is painted black as well.
 
LincolnSteve said:
That looks great.
Going back to something earlier in the thread. I was cleaning the inside of my back axle casing today and I remembered you posting about the paint inside. Just to let you know that mine is painted black as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the confirmation - so far I've only been able to find series 2 and series 3 Land Rover differentials and axle cases with paint on the insides (as well as the outsides). I reckon the steel castings need a bit of sealing help.

For cleaning the rust and muck out of my front axle I have a cunning plan - saying that you've been working on yours makes me wonder what you did though...
 
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