1965 Series 2a Station Wagon in Holland
- Thread starter Stretch
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LincolnSteve
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,188
- Location
- Lincoln
It is all looking very good though. Keep fighting the good fight.
Will do!
Gonna be a bit of a progress delay whilst I wait for new keys to get access to the Land Rover. The land lord is finally waking up to the problem of the Turkish bell ends leaving the effing doors open all the time - locks are being changed to a type that key cutters are not meant to copy. Perhaps this will improve things. One key per bell end might stop bell end's mates from going to "play on the xbox" (== smoke weed) - nobbers...
...finally got the screws out of the dynamo and the electromagnets out of the casing
I'm still looking for replacement long bolts for the dynamo casing but I managed to get a repair kit for a "Lucas C40" on ebay.
Bit more progress on the dynamo today (quite surprising really considering what else is going on!)
I unwrapped the cloth covering on the windings and replaced them with self amalgamating tape
I figure when the windings get hot the self amalgamating tape will be able to cope with it - I'm not sure if this is the done thing though - so it is my little experiment.
Meanwhile the casing and the other parts have been cleaned de-rusted and are in under coat awaiting satin black top coat (even I'm getting fed up with making pictures of stuff drying!)
I unwrapped the cloth covering on the windings and replaced them with self amalgamating tape
I figure when the windings get hot the self amalgamating tape will be able to cope with it - I'm not sure if this is the done thing though - so it is my little experiment.
Meanwhile the casing and the other parts have been cleaned de-rusted and are in under coat awaiting satin black top coat (even I'm getting fed up with making pictures of stuff drying!)
Re-wind to the steering box =>
The parts I needed finally arrived.
They took some time to track down - in the end I paid silly money for them from a place in Holland. Still wot's done is done...
Fitting the sealing washer on the output shaft - used a bit of RTV to help with the seating 9which turned out not to be needed - tight fit)
I then used a deep socket to position the washer
Looks good!
Fitted the shims and got the input shaft turning nicely
Fitted the main cover with the usual Hylomar spray gasket dressing - this might help with (stopping) leaks - we'll see!
Job done
All wrapped up and hidden upstairs for storage whilst I get on with the other stuff.
The parts collection "upstairs" is steadily growing - several boxes in the roof space and even a few parts under the stairs to the roof
If I can get the Land Lord to allow it I'm planning to make a big picture of a dis assembled Land Rover once everything is refurbished and ready to go back on.
It'll be my own little complete knock down kit!
The parts I needed finally arrived.
They took some time to track down - in the end I paid silly money for them from a place in Holland. Still wot's done is done...
Fitting the sealing washer on the output shaft - used a bit of RTV to help with the seating 9which turned out not to be needed - tight fit)
I then used a deep socket to position the washer
Looks good!
Fitted the shims and got the input shaft turning nicely
Fitted the main cover with the usual Hylomar spray gasket dressing - this might help with (stopping) leaks - we'll see!
Job done
All wrapped up and hidden upstairs for storage whilst I get on with the other stuff.
The parts collection "upstairs" is steadily growing - several boxes in the roof space and even a few parts under the stairs to the roof
If I can get the Land Lord to allow it I'm planning to make a big picture of a dis assembled Land Rover once everything is refurbished and ready to go back on.
It'll be my own little complete knock down kit!
Question about injectors
Are these injectors series 3 / last year of the 2a type?
I've got a feeling I need to hunt for some original early types. These look like they've got a hammer head shark-like head on them in the parts manual
QU asked here => https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/injector-id-qu.304056/
Are these injectors series 3 / last year of the 2a type?
I've got a feeling I need to hunt for some original early types. These look like they've got a hammer head shark-like head on them in the parts manual
QU asked here => https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/injector-id-qu.304056/
Last edited:
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,073
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Not sure if it will make any difference but the self amalgamating tape looks a bit odd, did you stretch it while applying? Any time I've seen it used, it is stretched so much it goes very thin and you wouldn't see wrinkles going round corners.
I didn't stretch it that much (as you can see). It wasn't like a panicked 2 AM by the side of the road wrapping self amalgamating tape around a cooling hose in the blinking rain affair! The original cloth wrapping wasn't super tight either. My worry is that it will come undone inside the dynamo - so I might cover it in something else to help it stick.
Dunno - you've given me food for thought...
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,073
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I think it needs to be stretched almost to breaking point to stick properly to itself. when you do that it almost melts together. Try practising on something that doesn't matter.
Right after the self amalgamating tape diversion I've been fiddling again getting pedal boxes back together and off in storage
The spigot for the pedal is a bit tricky as it needs to be aligned for the fixing pin
Pre-alignment and then pressing the spigot in place went well but...
...it still needed adjustment
I used loads of anti seize paste on this bit to help get the spigot in place
The spigot for the pedal is a bit tricky as it needs to be aligned for the fixing pin
Pre-alignment and then pressing the spigot in place went well but...
...it still needed adjustment
I used loads of anti seize paste on this bit to help get the spigot in place
High temperature varnish has made a guest appearance today.
I'm using it for some of the moving dynamo internal parts to hold back the rust
It also got used on the clutch master cylinder that I took to bits to make sure all was well.
This part was (obviously) bought by the previous owner and it quite new. Before it rusts I wanted to try and preserve the external casing as there's nothing more grotty than rusting hydraulic cylinders after they've been on the vehicle for a few minutes.
This clear high temperature paint is a bit cheaper than the clear coat varnish American restorers like to spray all over the shop and from what I can work out lasts longer (fingers crossed)...
It is also good to know that the internals are still in good condition! (I've bought new stuff recently that was worse than the old parts - not Land Rover stuff - but those stories are on this forum too)
The brake master cylinder, however, is of a similar vintage but is already rusting so it is getting a coat of paint before it goes into service
I'm using it for some of the moving dynamo internal parts to hold back the rust
It also got used on the clutch master cylinder that I took to bits to make sure all was well.
This part was (obviously) bought by the previous owner and it quite new. Before it rusts I wanted to try and preserve the external casing as there's nothing more grotty than rusting hydraulic cylinders after they've been on the vehicle for a few minutes.
This clear high temperature paint is a bit cheaper than the clear coat varnish American restorers like to spray all over the shop and from what I can work out lasts longer (fingers crossed)...
It is also good to know that the internals are still in good condition! (I've bought new stuff recently that was worse than the old parts - not Land Rover stuff - but those stories are on this forum too)
The brake master cylinder, however, is of a similar vintage but is already rusting so it is getting a coat of paint before it goes into service
It has been a long time since I've done anything with the roof vents - they've been a bit of problem as the best solution would probably be to strip them again and get them galvanised properly...
...however - the paintman paints have a "silver galv" paint that I thought I'd give a go.
To re-cap:
1) The vents were rusty and they are 'king expensive to replace (if indeed you can get them)
2) I stripped them / derusted them in rustyco
3) Then I sprayed them in Zinga - which is a high zinc content cold galvanising product
As you can see the colour is a bit blue and not very convincing...
####
So I (just) tried the paintman spray and - way hey!
The zinga is in the back ground - silver galv colour in fore ground
Not too bad - once fitted in a safari roof I might just get away with it...
...however - the paintman paints have a "silver galv" paint that I thought I'd give a go.
To re-cap:
1) The vents were rusty and they are 'king expensive to replace (if indeed you can get them)
2) I stripped them / derusted them in rustyco
3) Then I sprayed them in Zinga - which is a high zinc content cold galvanising product
As you can see the colour is a bit blue and not very convincing...
####
So I (just) tried the paintman spray and - way hey!
The zinga is in the back ground - silver galv colour in fore ground
Not too bad - once fitted in a safari roof I might just get away with it...
Went shop shop shop shopping today
(Yea!)
Came back with some good bits (I think)
Probably the best looking wheel barrow in the world =>
I got
1X correct series 2a propshaft
1X diesel cylinder head
1X cover for the wiring for the lights at the back of the station wagon
1X diesel flywheel (heavier than petrol engine) with a starter ring that actually still has some life in it!
1X correct series 2a wheel hub
1X correct (ribbed) series 2a differential (knackered but I have a plan)
2X front axle drive shafts (thank goodness I found them - they don't seem to be available new any more and the series 3 bits don't fit (all) series 2a parts)
and (drum roll)
1X Brand new original side step
(Who's the Daddy? Who's the man? Oh yes! Yes! Yes!)
(Yea!)
Came back with some good bits (I think)
Probably the best looking wheel barrow in the world =>
I got
1X correct series 2a propshaft
1X diesel cylinder head
1X cover for the wiring for the lights at the back of the station wagon
1X diesel flywheel (heavier than petrol engine) with a starter ring that actually still has some life in it!
1X correct series 2a wheel hub
1X correct (ribbed) series 2a differential (knackered but I have a plan)
2X front axle drive shafts (thank goodness I found them - they don't seem to be available new any more and the series 3 bits don't fit (all) series 2a parts)
and (drum roll)
1X Brand new original side step
(Who's the Daddy? Who's the man? Oh yes! Yes! Yes!)
Right so did he do good with the new goodies?
Well - not bad (!)
The front half shafts are in pretty good shape and now have new UJs fitted
The edges of the metal on half shaft to metal bearing surface (inside the axle) are not 100% ideal but they still have some life in them.
These are the rusty looking bands on the shafts
They'll be cleaned up before fitting
GKN UJs fitted - not cheapo muck
Speaking of muck =>
Is this almost enough encouragement for people to consider what happens inside an axle after you've been driving through ditches for a while and not been changing your differential fluid?
Is this also enough encouragement for people who find outer surfaces covered in mucky goo to think about the inside roller bearings in the UJs?
(Probably not!)
Still all good now =>
Well - not bad (!)
The front half shafts are in pretty good shape and now have new UJs fitted
The edges of the metal on half shaft to metal bearing surface (inside the axle) are not 100% ideal but they still have some life in them.
These are the rusty looking bands on the shafts
They'll be cleaned up before fitting
GKN UJs fitted - not cheapo muck
Speaking of muck =>
Is this almost enough encouragement for people to consider what happens inside an axle after you've been driving through ditches for a while and not been changing your differential fluid?
Is this also enough encouragement for people who find outer surfaces covered in mucky goo to think about the inside roller bearings in the UJs?
(Probably not!)
Still all good now =>
Not so good was the original side step I was so excited about.
I'm fairly sure it is an original step - but it is kind of different original step from the one remaining knackered one =>
Although the original step has been "modified" it is clear to see two ribbed strengthening bits under the step (even though I didn't get a great picture 'cos it is a lovely sunny day here in Holland today)
The "new original" one has but one strengthening rib.
It is still nice thick steel but this part might not make it onto the finished Land Rover.
I'm fairly sure it is an original step - but it is kind of different original step from the one remaining knackered one =>
Although the original step has been "modified" it is clear to see two ribbed strengthening bits under the step (even though I didn't get a great picture 'cos it is a lovely sunny day here in Holland today)
The "new original" one has but one strengthening rib.
It is still nice thick steel but this part might not make it onto the finished Land Rover.
The diesel head I got has been a bloody good surprise.
The way in which it had been stored (in a Steptoe and sons pile on the floor) wasn't so great but it has cleaned up nicely.
I took the valves out and was shocked to find that the guides are in really good condition - very very small amount of wiggle in the stems. The valve seats are also hot to trot - I just need to lap the valves before I refit new valve stem seals.
There is (as you can see) slight scuffing / evidence of impact damage in the combustion chambers. This might be due to the hot spots slowly disintegrating.
The cracks on these are within the 8mm spec (!) in the Green Book - but I think I'd like to fit new ones.
I'm going to practice removal on the knackered head that came fitted to the engine.
If this comes good I will be making a massive saving compared with the plan to get an ACR tuned diesel head.
(To be continued)
The way in which it had been stored (in a Steptoe and sons pile on the floor) wasn't so great but it has cleaned up nicely.
I took the valves out and was shocked to find that the guides are in really good condition - very very small amount of wiggle in the stems. The valve seats are also hot to trot - I just need to lap the valves before I refit new valve stem seals.
There is (as you can see) slight scuffing / evidence of impact damage in the combustion chambers. This might be due to the hot spots slowly disintegrating.
The cracks on these are within the 8mm spec (!) in the Green Book - but I think I'd like to fit new ones.
I'm going to practice removal on the knackered head that came fitted to the engine.
If this comes good I will be making a massive saving compared with the plan to get an ACR tuned diesel head.
(To be continued)
The exhaust manifold has the usual trouble of buggered threads for the attachments for the down pipe.
This isn't a great shock - to be expected - but the condition of the casting around these pesky studs is good so I'll be fitting Timeserts (generally stronger than helicoils if fitted correctly!)
Even after a good go with the angle grinder and the wire brush the heavily dimpled surface is still full of rust. So I've chucked it in a bath of Rustyco and will see if a few weeks in there will help with the derusting. If that doesn't work I'll have to splash out for someone with a sand blaster to do it for me (Hate having to get others to do stuff for me - so it will be avoided if possible)
This isn't a great shock - to be expected - but the condition of the casting around these pesky studs is good so I'll be fitting Timeserts (generally stronger than helicoils if fitted correctly!)
Even after a good go with the angle grinder and the wire brush the heavily dimpled surface is still full of rust. So I've chucked it in a bath of Rustyco and will see if a few weeks in there will help with the derusting. If that doesn't work I'll have to splash out for someone with a sand blaster to do it for me (Hate having to get others to do stuff for me - so it will be avoided if possible)
The propshaft looks like it is gonna come up real good. I have high hopes this is going to be a great improvement on the old one (not hard)
New UJs will be fitted
The hub I got (with the correct sized wheel bolts) has had "treatment" from someone else before me. Lots of black paint painted over rust!
This seems to be a different type of series 2 hub from the other ones though. The wheel lug / bolts are not peened on this type.
New UJs will be fitted
The hub I got (with the correct sized wheel bolts) has had "treatment" from someone else before me. Lots of black paint painted over rust!
This seems to be a different type of series 2 hub from the other ones though. The wheel lug / bolts are not peened on this type.
Hot spot removal => trivial!
For many other diesel engines the term pre-chamber removal brings along that 5p : 50p feeling as you know it'll cause trouble
2.25 Land Rover diesel hot spot / pre-chamber removal piece of wee wee
Just a (rather) long parallel pin punch needed
Once removed they are dead of course but hey ho you can't have it all.
For many other diesel engines the term pre-chamber removal brings along that 5p : 50p feeling as you know it'll cause trouble
2.25 Land Rover diesel hot spot / pre-chamber removal piece of wee wee
Just a (rather) long parallel pin punch needed
Once removed they are dead of course but hey ho you can't have it all.
