110 Second Row Crossmember Replacement

bankz5152 · Saturday at 08:39

Hello all,

It looks like I need a new second row crossmember, I could patch it but the steel is heavily corroded so would prefer to replace it.

YRM do a modified version meaning you can slide it in through the triangles in the side which is easier.

However my issue is. I have an internal/external roll cage which makes removing the second row floor extremely difficult as well as a difficult to remove and install headliner.

So those that have done it, can you remove and replace the crossmember without taking the floor out?

Knappster · Saturday at 08:46

I’m sure it can be done but it’s more for ease of access to welding.

Just realised it’s the second row crossmember, not the rear one!

bankz5152 · Saturday at 09:41

Indeed!

This one

Hicap phill · Saturday at 11:26

Can you make some brackets that go over the cross member so you don’t have to weld the top?

Or is it the length you can get it in?

julianf · Saturday at 12:00

You dont take the floor out at all.

You take of the little triangular panels by the c posts, and slide in the new one from the side.

Edit : confused as you say this in your own post (?)

The old one doesn't come out that way - you chop that up in situ and scrap it. You slide in the modified one from the side and then bolt the brackets on.

bankz5152 · Saturday at 14:22

julianf said:
You dont take the floor out at all.

You take of the little triangular panels by the c posts, and slide in the new one from the side.

Edit : confused as you say this in your own post (?)

The old one doesn't come out that way - you chop that up in situ and scrap it. You slide in the modified one from the side and then bolt the brackets on.

Never done it so dont know!

Any of the photos and threads ive seen everyone has the floor out. I wondered if there where some inaccessible fixings that meant the floor had to come out.

But thats brilliant news, thanks! Cut the old one out, slide new one in. Hopefully fairly straightforward

bankz5152 · Saturday at 14:22

Hicap phill said:
Can you make some brackets that go over the cross member so you don’t have to weld the top?

Or is it the length you can get it in?

YRM one is made to bolt together avoiding that

dag019 · Sunday at 06:24

julianf said:
You dont take the floor out at all.

You take of the little triangular panels by the c posts, and slide in the new one from the side.

Edit : confused as you say this in your own post (?)

The old one doesn't come out that way - you chop that up in situ and scrap it. You slide in the modified one from the side and then bolt the brackets on.

As above. I have just done mine using a yrm crossmember but I cheated and had the whole Body off for the replacement. But the idea is you cut the old one into pieces to remove and the new one slides in without removing the floor or the body. Just the arch spats and the triangle body panels that are riveted on. Then once the crossmember is in place the four brackets can be bolted in.

In discussing this I have also realised I have made a mistake on mine that hopefully won’t be an issue because it is galvanised. Because I had the body off I have put the bolts in top to bottom rather than bottom to top. So not sure I can take them out without removing the floor!

bankz5152 · Sunday at 07:28

Cheers! Given that my corners are a little worse for wear and only £25 to buy, ill probably get some replacements respray and refit after!

110 Second Row Crossmember Replacement

bankz5152

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Knappster

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bankz5152

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Hicap phill

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julianf

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bankz5152

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bankz5152

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dag019

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bankz5152

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