110 roof cracks

Hi folks,

I have read a few posts, and I am not sure about my questions.
1997 110 5 door 300tdi.
The front roof to A pillar screws weren't replaced after painting, the weight of the roof rack on the front corner meant it started to crack.
I am trying to work out how the roof is actually made to make the best repair.
Firstly, there seems to be a gutter made of thicker aluminium. Then the roof skin is thin aluminium. There are support bars cross ways which seem to have spot welds. And support bars lengthwise which seem to only be held on by an adhesive of some sort? The skin appears to have a press fit type connection to the gutter. There is an inner and outer gutter, which is then bolted to the vehicle sides.

It should be okay to weld the small crack?
Then the outer gutter should have a sealant along the length where then thinner roof sheet meets the gutter, what sealant is best?
Any suggestions to further strengthen the roof corner/ gutter area?

Roof load is a QuickPitch clamshell tent, 270° awning, shower cubicle, and 4 maxtraxs. Tent on 3 front runner load bars, maxtraxs on a small front runner roof rack in front of tent. (Small rack removed for the repair, as well as front headliner)

Attached are some images with labels to maybe better show my problem.
Thank you In advance.

I have some cracks, always assumed it was the compound filling the gutter rather than the roof itself.

The gutter is one piece like an upside down 'n' shape. The outer roof skin has a angle return to sit flat on the gutter, this is riveted to the gutter and it is common for the thin roof skin to pull through the rivets. Pita to re rivet iirc, lots of sealant in that area or tiger seal and clamp after cleaning it up should hold it together?

Thank you, Okay that makes sense. I will look again today

After looking at it again today, the crack was just cracked adhesive. More bolts along the roof weren't fitted or were loose. I used a seam sealer which I found at a local HB body store, fitted new M6 x 20mm bolts, riveted a couple of broken spot welds, riveted the thin roof metal into the gutter metal, with seam sealer as well. I hope this works. I may seam seal the whole length of the gutter if this works well. I would just need to remove the roof tent.

Jbdisco said:

I may seam seal the whole length of the gutter if this works well. I would just need to remove the roof tent.

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I did this at the beginning of the winter, removed the old and resealed but it has not stopped it leaking! I need to remove the roof rack and do the top roof panel joints as well as I cant see where else the water could be getting into the internal gutters..

dag019 said:

I did this at the beginning of the winter, removed the old and resealed but it has not stopped it leaking! I need to remove the roof rack and do the top roof panel joints as well as I cant see where else the water could be getting into the internal gutters..

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Have you got the later rear roof vents?

Yes, I fear mine will always have a leak. The sealing I did today wouldn't have made much difference

do you mean these if so yes I do? (photo from google)

I haven't got them but I've read that they are a common place for water ingress.

Flossie said:

I haven't got them but I've read that they are a common place for water ingress.

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Excellent I was not aware of that, I will attack them with the seam sealer as well!