1.8 Petrol Freelanders

Yet another Freelander HGF thread - my first post, so be gentle with me. Also, sorry if this duplicates previous posts - I did search, but couldn't find anything. If there are previous threads on this, please let me know.

I don't have a Land Rover of any description yet, or even a 4x4, although I am occasionally allowed to drive Mrs Paul's RAV4. But I'm heading towards retirement and hoping to pick up a cheap toy to play with - a bit of green-laning and light off-roading. For various reasons a Freelander looks like my best choice; however, while they're available incredibly cheaply (and with good reason, some would say), I've always been put of the petrol versions.

But while looking for details on the HGF issues, I came across this - http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/why_do_hgfs.htm - on an MGF site.

Part of this seems to suggest that once an engine has overheated, the original heat-treatment of the head is compromised, which might be why some owners have never had a problem, while others have multiple failures? Might the answer be to source a new head - K or N series - if these are available, then apply all the remedial solutions - relocated thermostat, etc? If this was practical, it could revive a few otherwise dead Freelanders.

Any thoughts from those better informed?

Hello and welcome.
A K series need not be a disaster story. Yes they do need a wee bit more care in the maintenance (. A K1.8 head can be checked for hardness and that it is straight. I recently learned that alloy heads can be re-hardened. If the have become porous they can be peened to make them servacible again. Hardness is the key and they can be plained [skimmed] to get them straight / flat again.

I was concerned about all the negative issues about these engines when I bought mine. I have done the following to try and give mine greater reliability: new radiator, coolant bottle & cap, replaced the thermostat with a remote one [PRT], new cam belt, tensioner and w'pump. I run deionised water [rain water!] and red OAT coolant. I also fitted a strengthened bottom oil rail, new head bolts and I used a Payen BW750 h'gasket instead of the MLS one. My reason for that was on advice from people on here with a lot more experience than me I carefully checked my cylinder liner height. Mine are uneven, some are above the block face but uneven, and one is flush. I also fitted a coolant level sensor in the coolant tank to give me a warning if the coolant gets low - an early warning system! I've also fitted a thermostatically controlled oil cooler as well. Paranoia! I've done a lot of other things too to try and tweek more economy and power and I'm routinely getting better than 31 MpG.

The petrol will have more spritely performance but will not tow as well as a diesel. It won't have the same economy either . BUT, they are dead easy to work on and parts are inexpensive too.

The motor is but one issue in these cars. You should be aware of the others too. Tyres are critical: all the same make [brand], size and inflation. If fitting any new tyres, you need to fit pairs at the minimum and the new ones go on the rear wheels. Carefully check the condition of the 4WD set-up. Search on here about the one-wheel-up-test. It will help to check the condition of the VCU on the prop' shafts.

Make sure that the prop' shafts and VCU are actually in place! Apparently many remove these to mask a suspect / damaged IRD -transfer box.

Search carefully on here. There is a lot of good advice - some leg pulling too!

can't answer the HGF query ..
( someone will as there are some on the forum who know all about the 1.8 K series and related issues )
but as your looking for a freelander ..
in the meantime .. have a read thru this ..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/what-to-lock-for-on-freelanders.163164/#post-1620217

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The VCU damaging the IRD and/or rear diff are a bigger concern for me than the head gasket. Yes they fail and no the uprated HG didn't fix the problem but if you can fix it yourself or have a good local mechanic it isn't a major problem.
Repeat failure is more often caused by poor workmanship and inappropriate HG kit than cooked heads.
If looking at one check the oil for mayo on the dipstick but don't be overly concerned if you see a small spec of it as condensation can cause it too. Also check the coolant header tank for oil and smell it for a linseed oil smell which might indicate Kseal or similar.

The head is only an issue, if the engine has been very, very hot.

I have seen a few that have been driven until they have stopped/seized up. All the plastics bolted to the engine had melted. In those instances, I didn't even strip it down, they got replacement engines.

I have never had a re-occurring HGF issue, if the head has been skimmed, liner heights checked, and a new OEM MLS gasket fitted