1.8 not running after battery connection

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Bob the dog

Member
Posts
14
Location
Nottingham
Hi guys
Just bought a Renault RX4 and when I went to pick it up sitting in the corner was a 2001 Freelander 1.8 5 door covered in dust.
When I asked about its history the young mechanic told me that they had carried out £500 worth of MOT repairs and then a couple of weeks later the owner brought it back for a new clutch.
Upon refitting the gearbox he turned the ignition key to release the steering lock when fitting the driveshafts.
Later he fitted and connected the battery which sparked heavily when connected. He had forgotten to turn the ignition off and once everything was refitted the vehicle refused to start.
They settled on a price with the owner and never got around to sorting until I called and picked it up for a very reasonable price and freed some space up in their workshop.
Here is the current situation.
· Car unlocks ok on the remote.
· Inserting the key in the ignition upon turning to ign position you can hear the pump prime for a moment but when turned to the start position the starter doesn't turn.
· I have tried a good spare ignition switch and no change.
· I tested for voltage at the starter wire when key is turned, nothing.
· I then made a fly lead with switch from the battery to the starter, reinserted the key turned to ign position then pressed the switch on the fly lead. The car turned over, started then cut out. If this sequence was repeated the same result.
My thoughts on this is that when the battery was connected with the ignition on, one of the control units was blown and therefore the fuel pump is not getting a feed, likewise the starter.
My questions to you clever people out there are as follows:
· If I should purchase a good used engine control unit, do I also need to get its matching immobilizer control unit (the white coloured one) and the chip (transponder) from within the ignition key?
· Where about is the immobilizer control unit within the car and what needs removing the get to it?
· Any other suggestions on sorting this problem?
Thanks in advance.
 
Brack said:
Sorry to be obvious but have any fuses been checked - F6 maybe?
Click to expand...

+1 - and the fusible links box in the engine bay too there's a 30amp fuse for the starter solenoid, and there's also a 20amp fuse for the fuel pump and injectors.
Check fusible links. There is one foe the ignition 1 [60amp] and passenger fuse box [ 60 amp], ignition 2 [ 60amp] as well as the 120amp alternator on too.

In the driver's fuse box check: worth a check along with F6 [engine cut-off] AND F19 [ fuel system].
 
Probably unrelated but if by any chance they had disconnected the instrument console during the works there is a plug at the top of the unit which links to the immobiliser. If that is not plugged back in the ignition will show it is on but the engine will fail to turn when the key is turned. I am just speaking from my own experience ....

Gareth

PS Mine is diesel XDi
 
Last edited:
htr said:
+1 - and the fusible links box in the engine bay too there's a 30amp fuse for the starter solenoid, and there's also a 20amp fuse for the fuel pump and injectors.
Check fusible links. There is one foe the ignition 1 [60amp] and passenger fuse box [ 60 amp], ignition 2 [ 60amp] as well as the 120amp alternator on too.

In the driver's fuse box check: worth a check along with F6 [engine cut-off] AND F19 [ fuel system].
Click to expand...

Hi Brack, HTR
Thanks for the response
I have double checked all the fuses and all are present and intact.

I also checked that voltage was present either with ignition off or on as required.
One thing I noticed was that Fuse F5 on the below dash fuse box that is labelled as Immobilisation ECU only has voltage present when the ignition key is held in the 'start' position. Is this correct???
I'm thinking that this should have power with ignition on and possibly the reason for the fuse getting voltage in 'start' position is a back feed. Does this make sense?

Hi Gareth
Yes I checked under the instrument console cover and the alarm RF transmitter/receiver is plugged in and as the alarm and central locking works fine I suspect its working correctly. In the car I did find another unit and when plugged in this also worked. I did think that these were coded to the remote fob but obviously not.

I also had the engine ECU out to see if there might have been a bad connection but everything seemed fine.

In relation to my initial post, can anybody tell me if the engine ECU coded to the Immobiliser ECU and or the BCM Module or Key Transponder?

Also, where is the Immobiliser ECU located and how is best to get to it?

Again, thanks in advance
Bob
 
I'm not sure on the location of the immobiliser but would guess it's near the dash display or centre console. The engine ECU is coded to the immobiliser though. Unless the engine ECU receives the correct code, injection and ignition is disabled.
 
Hi Nodge68

From what I've read on various posts I was also forming the opinion that the Immobiliser ECU and Engine ECU were coded together.

On the well known auction site there are a few ECU's at very reasonable money and I presume that with the right software you can program them to your Immobiliser ECU.

Perhaps my best option is to get a matched pair of ECUs that are coded together and will be plug and play. Anybody know if I'm right in this assumption and will I also need the matching transponder from inside the key?

The manual says that that the Immobiliser ECU is mounted 'centrally' in the car. I live in the centre of the UK but the postman needs more information :)
 
In other Rover car's, the immobiliser is often behind the centre console area somewhere. It's often a pita to get at for good reason.
I believe you would need a complete set of parts for the swap. Engine ECU, immobiliser unit and keys/ fobs.
Have you tried reading the fault codes?

Also have you run a link across the fuel pump relay? This would force the pump to run independently from the engine ECU. I test fuel pumps this way.

I don't think this will allow the engine to run, other than a quick burst as I believe the engine ECU requires a constant immobiliser code to maintain operation.
 
Last edited:
If you get a matching pair of ECUs, you will also need the transponder chips from the corresponding keys.

I dont remember seeing it when I had the dashboard out, but I was messing with the transponders on mine (2001 td4) a couple of weeks ago and as I brought the chip within range of the receiver around the ignition barrel I could hear a relay clunk from somewhere....sounded like somewhere between the instrument panel and the centre dash vents. I would assume that would be the immobiliser unit.


Take the chip out of the key, turn ignition on and move the chip towards the key, you will hear the click as it comes within range.
 
Hi Nodge / Dave / Jonaf
I've been a bit slow getting back to the car and you guys due to having a couple of health issues and visits to the hospital.

I agree that having a matched Engine, Immobiliser and BCU ECU's together with the transponder chip from the key is the way to go and save transporting the car to someone with the equipment to re-code off parts.

I read elsewhere that if you get mismatched units you cannot always get them to code together even with Testbook.

I have seen a set with the right parts on fleabay (item number 121504732934 ) but was hoping to pay a little less cash.

The guys at Amazon 4x4 have told me I can go and have a look around their stock and James and Luke at Gentlemen of Salvage on Fleabay have said that they will do a deal when they get a car with matching numbers. It is nice when these breakers offer help and assistance rather than a take it or leave it attitude.

Will update after the weekend
 
Bob the dog said:
Hi Nodge / Dave / Jonaf
I've been a bit slow getting back to the car and you guys due to having a couple of health issues and visits to the hospital.

I agree that having a matched Engine, Immobiliser and BCU ECU's together with the transponder chip from the key is the way to go and save transporting the car to someone with the equipment to re-code off parts.

I read elsewhere that if you get mismatched units you cannot always get them to code together even with Testbook.

I have seen a set with the right parts on fleabay (item number 121504732934 ) but was hoping to pay a little less cash.

The guys at Amazon 4x4 have told me I can go and have a look around their stock and James and Luke at Gentlemen of Salvage on Fleabay have said that they will do a deal when they get a car with matching numbers. It is nice when these breakers offer help and assistance rather than a take it or leave it attitude.

Will update after the weekend
Click to expand...

Try Google the company in post 10 here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-v6-ecu-209197.html

If the ECU is fried ....see if they can repair it for less
 
Hi all

Thanks to all who offered opinions on my problem.

I went down the route of getting a matching set of Engine ECU, Immobiliser ECU, CCU and transponder chip.
Replacing the immobiliser ECU is a bit of a pain involving removal of the dashboard.

Pleased to say that the engine started first turn but did throw up a couple of problems.
The ABS light is now on
The radiator fans start when ignition is turned on and continue for a few minutes when switched off

Does anybody know if these two problems may be something to do with settings in one of the ECUs?

Thanks in advance.
 
Bob the dog said:
Hi all

Thanks to all who offered opinions on my problem.

I went down the route of getting a matching set of Engine ECU, Immobiliser ECU, CCU and transponder chip.
Replacing the immobiliser ECU is a bit of a pain involving removal of the dashboard.

Pleased to say that the engine started first turn but did throw up a couple of problems.
The ABS light is now on
The radiator fans start when ignition is turned on and continue for a few minutes when switched off

Does anybody know if these two problems may be something to do with settings in one of the ECUs?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I agree with Teddywood1 re the ABS light and moving the vehicle. With regard to the cooling fans I read this recently, it may shed some light on why they are on:

"In the first 10 seconds after ignition is switched off, the ECM drives the idle air control valve to its power down position (ready for the next engine start), and stores any required information. The ECM then monitors the engine bay temperature using the ambient air temperature sensor. If the temperature is above a certain limit, the ECM will drive the engine bay fan for 8 minutes, and will then power down. If the engine bay temperature is below the limit the ECM will power down after 10 seconds.
Engine compartment ambient air temperature sensor
The ECM monitors the engine compartment temperature using the ambient air temperature sensor. When the temperature exceeds a certain limit, the engine bay fan relay is energised to run the fan. If the temperature continues to rise, and exceeds another higher limit, the engine bay warning lamp (in the instrument pack) is illuminated. If the ambient air temperature sensor fails, the engine bay fan will run while the ignition is on and the warning lamp will be permanently lit."

You may have a faulty engine bay temp' sensor.
 
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