This^^^^
Definitely fit the Payen blue elastomer gasket
1.8 coolant
- Thread starter rangerovertoy
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Definitely fit the Payen blue elastomer gasket
rangerovertoy
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well blue gasket arrived finally so tomorrow will start to rebuild it,its all cleaned up and ready to go, however i have found there is no thermostat or housing! its all been removed and repkaced with some new pipework so guess i will have to get a thermostat housing drat!
freelance
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Hopefully it has the prt system, grey plastic housing in the pipe work in the front of the engine, ie thermostat upgrade!
rangerovertoy
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nope it has zilch nothing nada , just pipework
Alibro
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Maybe pick one up from a scrappy, plenty about and prob on ebay too. Otherwise from our sponsers https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/ff_part?part=15252
rangerovertoy
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feck that looks complicated? how different is that to the original?
engine is now in one piece or almost, got to get dizzy cap an poss leads, some kind of themostat housing,some coolant, a power steering belt and plugs as i have condemned all these as being unfit for purpose, so at the moment it owes us including buying it,the grand total of 274 quid, whilst searching for the fecha technica i came across the original bill of sale from the garage the previous owner bought it from, believe it or not he paid 2800 in feb 15,so in 10 months of neglect it cost him 2600, wow!
engine is now in one piece or almost, got to get dizzy cap an poss leads, some kind of themostat housing,some coolant, a power steering belt and plugs as i have condemned all these as being unfit for purpose, so at the moment it owes us including buying it,the grand total of 274 quid, whilst searching for the fecha technica i came across the original bill of sale from the garage the previous owner bought it from, believe it or not he paid 2800 in feb 15,so in 10 months of neglect it cost him 2600, wow!
Alibro
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Not sure how it fits but is only a few pipes and there is bound to be some 'how to's' around. I think one end goes to the bottom of the rad but don't quote me on that. Would be a good idea to fit it while doing the HG though.
Sounds like you got a similar bargain to mine, although mine may not have HGF after all. After buying the car and all the kit to do full service including brakes timing belt, water pump etc I'm still under £500.
Jeepers somone saw him coming, £2600????? I bought an 04 car at about the same time for £1450 with 12 months MOT.
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rangerovertoy
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lol if you want to see some daft [prices, just put spain into a search in cars and vehicles in ebay, it will astound you lol reason being the goverment sets the value of the car, i.e what they think its worth,and taxes the transfer of ownership accordingly, crap system! for instance our mitsubisho 7 seater lwb 2.5td from 1986 with nearly 300k on it will sell tomorrow for 1500 easily!! in fact got offered this when i rebuilt the motor last year, having said that it has zero rust ,working aircon,poly bushes etc etc and drives pretty much as it did when it left the factory, little tiny bit of gearbox whine in 3rd gear but its been like that the last 5 years so not to worried,, hence why i jumped at the chance of buying the freelander at 200, dont mind working on motors at all,as i do it for a living most times, when i aint driving the excavator or landscaping,building maintenance, driving hgv1,s blah blah anything to earn a crust! and of course car parts are exactly the same, all have to come from madrid after you order them,and the freelander head kit with standard gasket was the astonishing price of 275, and that was after discount! which is why i get my parts from uk, obviously,so im goimg to go down to the nearest car parts place and price up the thermostat,and the dizzy cap and leads and plugs, if they are to stupid will wait and get them from uk,
rangerovertoy
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housing is there, will make a reducer ring then thanks for the info!
The reducer is nothing more than a thermostat without the valve assembly
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rangerovertoy
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lol thats what i intended to do!
rangerovertoy
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well its all done, used the polymer gasket, after a hiccup getting the right sized rotor arm,put it all back together as i thought it should, now dont shout at me for this, but i didnt lock the crank or the cams,used no special tools at all, just my god knows how many years of playing with engines lol,had made a small mark on crank pulley when i took it apart, put it all back together,adjust aito tensioner, turned it twice by hand,seemd ok,turned key it fired into life and sat there ticking over as sweet as you like,put all the bits i hadnt yet back on, after it had warmed up,such as belt cover power steering and alt belt,refitted the undertray,and prompltly drove it up the 1.4 hill on a test drive,only done 20 miles,checked water level after all good, it goes just over halfway on guage when climbing hill in 2nd, then drops down to just under half when levelled out,so hoping its good for another 50k now, also tested vcu while i had it jacked up, seems fine,2 pund hammer on a long bar and it went slowly down, took it across some tracks on the test drive, deliberatly got it crossed up on some big ruts, rear wheels spun when it started climbing out, so think all is ok with transmission, only time wil tell now, thanks for all the help guys will report on its behaviour over the next few weeks, and no doubt have more question on the knocking from the front over rough ground, replaced the drop links,while ihad it apart, sounds like its the strut top mounts on the short test drive,but will get to it, lol
Alibro
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Not sure about the 2lb hammer test, we usually use a 5kg weight at 1.2m from the centre of the hub but if it turns at all with the hammer it is probably OK. You'll find the VCU never stops turning the rear wheels when it goes faulty. The problem is it will turn them (or try to) when it shouldn't resulting in other bits breaking instead.
Now starts the endless paranoid looking under the bonnet at the coolant level. Don't worry too much, this will subside after a few months so that it is just once a fortnight or so.
BTW regarding locking the cam pulleys, I don't do that either as I find it makes it much harder to fit the timing belt. The last time I did it I used my home made pulley turning tool to turn the exhaust pulley clockwise a little until I was able to hook the belt on properly, then turned it back up to tighten the belt. Then it was easy to fit the rest of it.
Now starts the endless paranoid looking under the bonnet at the coolant level. Don't worry too much, this will subside after a few months so that it is just once a fortnight or so.
BTW regarding locking the cam pulleys, I don't do that either as I find it makes it much harder to fit the timing belt. The last time I did it I used my home made pulley turning tool to turn the exhaust pulley clockwise a little until I was able to hook the belt on properly, then turned it back up to tighten the belt. Then it was easy to fit the rest of it.
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rangerovertoy
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lol how strange thats exactly what i did, could not get the belt tension to where i thought it was tight enough on the long side so i put a spanner on exhaust cam and gently turned it back till tbe belt hooked up then as you say turned it back put the rest of the belt on and tensioned it,when i first truned it back it pinged further than i wanted but easily sorted,as ou say first thing i did this morning was checked the coolant level lol,and believe it or not she hasnt used it today! doh!
Alibro
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True but I used pegs to keep the belt on the pulleys while trying to fit the rest. I did the timing belt on Gertrude yesterday, here are a couple of pics.The cam pulley locking tool isn't needed for fitting the belt. The crank locking tool is the only way to guarantee the crank is in the correct position
Glad you are sorted though.
Once you get this far you can check the timing is correct both top and bottom before fitting the belt around the tensioner. BTW I got the belt close to the correct position then took the bolt out of the tensioner as it was too tight otherwise. It was pretty easy to refit the tensioner after that.
rangerovertoy
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Gah!!! checked it this morning no overheating no coolant loss but there was air in the heater pipe? rebled it,but kinda worried it may point to a further problem,?
just for fun i added up the total cost so far,
including purchase it now owes me the grand total of 448euro,s
but i havent mot,d it yet but that only another 45, so assuming all is ok and th heater hose is not an issue just a blip,
its turned out to be a cheap fixer upper!
just for fun i added up the total cost so far,
including purchase it now owes me the grand total of 448euro,s
but i havent mot,d it yet but that only another 45, so assuming all is ok and th heater hose is not an issue just a blip,
its turned out to be a cheap fixer upper!
Alibro
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It takes a while for all air to to work itself out and it will collect at the heater bleed hole. Did you squeeze the top rad hose while bleeding it?
Good going on the price though.
Good going on the price though.
rangerovertoy
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phew!! sooo glad you told me that! ok will keep an eye on it, but if its normal thats ok, yeh pretty pleased with the price outcome,problem is swmbo is used to driving the mitsubishi which has square ends of wings you can see, lol she cant yet get the edges of the car in her head, I was near screaming as she went very close to the edge of the track and the drop was my side!
