1.8 Clutch Master and Slave System

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John908

New Member
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Location
Upper Beeding, West Sussex
I purchased a new master cylinder and slave for my 1.8 2001 Freelander as I was getting gear change problems. The new system I fitted, but found I could not select any gear. I took the new unit off carefully, but found the slave cylinder plunger had come out slightly too far and could not be pushed back in. What have I done wrong? I have had to put the old system back for now and I can push in the plunger easily. The seller could not advise me. I would be grateful for any comments.

John908
 
Yeah, theres a reason its locked in place with plastic clips in the box though, having it come out will allow air into the system.
 
If you pushed the clutch in without the slave properly fitted to the clutch lever the plunger will pop out allowing air in. Sorry but if you can't bleed it your stuffed. Put it down to experience and buy another one or start searching Google for a way to fit a bleed valve.
I nearly did the same thing with my MGF today but hit lucky as although forgot to fit the clevis pin before I pushed the clutch in, It caught on the clutch release lever and didn't pop it all the way out. Mind you I probably could have sorted it anyway as they can be bled on MG's but it's a messy job.
 
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I've had an inline bleed valve made - just as with everything else, I need the time to fit the damned thing :lol:

 
DD, I would be very interested to hear more about your inline bleed device.

I have fitted new clutch, new clutch hydraulics, new release arm and fork, new slave mounting bracket, new C clip, new gearbox oil also everything else new apart from a new CAR, but still difficulty in selecting gear. Im at a loss apart from the fact the parts used were BRITOOL, hope that doesn't make a difference.

I'm a competent mechanic with over 12 yrs experience in changing everything on any vehicle, but my freelander is proving to be a little embarrassing now in front of customers when I cant even get the **** into 1st gear.

Im sure its air in the stupid design of the clutch, slave cylinder setup.
I was thinking of fitting a completely different setup on my 2L L series diesel but at a loss to find anything similar.

Your setup looks like the one to go for. Would you mind me asking you what parts you used etc, also is there any 1 way valve in your system.

If you would be able to knock me up a setup, id pay for your time and labour, and ill fit it to mine asap and post back results. Should save people ££££'s.
I pay trade price of £25 +vat for the hydraulic setup delivered.

Cheers
Darren
 
it was made as an experiment by a friend - it's not something I've got the tools to make I'm afraid.

But generally, the long section is straight-through, using "speed fit" connections (modified to suit the thick wall pipe ours use). The "T" section has a ball valve to seal it off - unscrew the blue fitting half a turn, pump the pedal, fluid comes out.

Progress has been made on it tonight - threw on the clutch slave bracket to the spare gearbox, cut the pipe.... aaaand, that's it :lol:
 


It will bleed to an extent... but it still feels like there's a massive amount of air in it. Even though I used a pretty odd method to bleed the cylinder, AFTER bleeding the pipe... I think this part is simply too far away from the slave cylinder to be effective
 
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my post? Or yours with the "token expired" thingie?

Yours is just something with your browser. Skipping back+forth between pages.




Mine? The concept is still sound... but this particular version doesn't work. Just going ahead with holding the clutch pedal down overnight. It's a temporary thing, that lasts half a day... but it's better than nothing
 
Have you tried fitting any other slave cylinder ? Could I fit something else and manufacture a new bracket to hold the slave?

I have access to a whole workshop to make up brackets and welding!
Im thinking of something like a totally different slave which has a bleed nipple on the slave, then splicing it onto the pipe from the master cylinder and bleed by removing the top of the master cylinder and adding more fluid while I bleed it.

I have seen some slave cylinders like the VW one that has 2 mounting holes on it and the plunger that extends to push the arm out to release the clutch.
Has anyone tried to use a different slave?

Help I'm stuck with this, I have tried 2 complete hydraulic BRITPART units for the freelander, but each seem to not fully disengage the clutch.

I have replaced everything clutch wise, Clutch, release arm, bearing, Bracket Slave and master cylinder ETC.
The first few 10 miles or so the clutch works fine and I can change gear OK, then after some use the gear selection is very hard to engage. It feels like I need another few millimeters of travel on the pedal to engage the gears. Nothing is seized, The car once in gear does not creep forward if I stop at a junction with the car in 1st. So I know its releasing the clutch enough to disengage. But feel I need just another bit of travel on the pedal to make it easier to select gears.

Cheers.

I have several spare hydraulic setups that I could try and modify to insert a BLEED NIPPLE directly into the end of plastic slave cylinder at the opposite end of the plunger, but not sure if the plastic is thick enough for me to drill and tap a thread in it to insert a bleed nipple!! Has anyone tried this.

Help would be grateful please.
Many thanks
Regards
Darren
 
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The rover guys (who use the same engine, clutch, gearbox etc) talked about a clutch system made by someone called sheddist. He sold them as complete kits and as the slave was metal it was bolted directly to the engine. He didn't divulge what parts he used but it was pretty obvious its the clutch slave from a honda with a clear hose and a different master cylinder fitted. Could always look into that?
 
Dark Ice Designs do their own version of the Sheddist kit

Sheddist clutch kit


Pretty basic steel plate to bolt on a generic slave cylinder (with the correct bore), the master cylinder mounting plate is removed to allow fitting of a fairly standard 2-bolt master cylinder. Then use standard brake pipe, and a section of flexi pipe, to join

Handily enough... the Dark Ice site even includes fitting instructions ;)



EDIT: A quick look on Ebay, shows that Honda Civic clutch parts are the ones to look for. The master cylinder fitting needs modifying to suit the freelander setup, as ours is different. Easy enough to modify however
 
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DD
I'm going to have a go at this as I'm not going to pay £174 for the kit. Thanks for the link bud :banana:
The only thing I'm going to have difficulty with is connecting the master cylinder rod to the clutch pedal as ours have a ball joint on them and not a hole to o
Insert the clevis pin.

I'll be the tester for this kind of setup if it will help you guys out, as it will help me, so I'm going ahead and doing it. Will take me a few weeks to get some of the bits together as I'm a poor cashless chap, but think I can afford to get the slave cylinder. That way I can easily manufacture the bracket at work.
I'm also lucky to have a spare gearbox with a bracket on it from a freelander so I can take all new measurements from that.

Any further details or help you guys can think of will be great

Cheers guys
 
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one possible solution:

remove the clevis-pin end from the Honda master cylinder, and replace with a piece of 6mm thick steel with a hole to suit the pin on the clutch pedal.
 
Yep that's an ideal bud. Just pulled up the spec of the master cylinder from the Honda, and it appears that if I cut one side if the clevis pin bracket off then enlarge the hole on the 1 remaining side of the clevis, it will fit over the pin on the clutch pedal. Then just need to secure it onto the clutch pin by way of the black plastic clip device that's on the end of the original master cylinder shaft !

I'll also need to enlarge the hole slightly in the bulk head a few mm but I can manage that with a dremmal or a metal hole punch. Then drill 2 holes in the bulk head to secure the new master. Then I think that will be the master cylinder end sorted :confused2:
 
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