01 Range Rover Overheating with No Heat?

Overheating Questions! Just purchased an 01 RR SE :

Previous owner drove the car almost an hour to me, with no overheating. I left the truck running the ENTIRE time, before and after the test drive....no overheating. Heater and AC worked great the entire time. Previous owner stated he replaced the Radiator/Water Pump/Thermostat etc previously (between 20-40k ago)

I drove the car once or twice around the block after I purchased it with no issues. Again, no overheating and the heater worked fine.

Drove the car the day after I got it registered, overheated. Overflow cap was spewing out coolant, checked it out and all the seals were bad on the cap. REPLACED THE CAP and Bled the system.

Car still overheats...checked top rad hose and it is hot...not hard or soft to the touch, seems normal. Top of the radiator seems warm all the way across.

Touched the lower rad hose and the lower radiator, and it was cold. Presumed it was the thermostat so I REPLACED THE THERMOSTAT. Bled the system.

I also used a hose to spray into the top radiator hole and it seemed consistant with the water coming out of the lower hole. No contaminents or mud came out, seemed like all was well but I am not sure how accurate my test actually is. I presume the PO was telling the truth about replacing the radiator since it looks like it is in decent shape.

All the fans seem like they are on btw, the main one isn't loose to the touch either. Oil seems clean with no coolant on it, coolant box doesnt smell like exhaust fumes.

So now, the car still overheats even sitting at idle, with the hood/bonnet open. With no heat coming out of the vents, unless I rev the motor higher or drive the car.

What do I do?

I am worried that if I replace the radiator, it will be in vain. It doesn't seem like it is blocked/clogged and I had no visual of dirt/mud/grime after changing the stat.

Thank you in advance....I am regretting this purchase already, but hope that I can put this behind me





CLIFFNOTES:

1) PO said he replaced the radiator/water pump/thermostat etc 20-40k ago
2) Car did not overheat or have problems with the heater initially after the purchase
3) Overheated
4) Replaced radiator cap and bled
5) Overheated and no heat while at idle
6) Replaced thermostat and bled
7) Overheated and no heat while at idle

Forgot to state, that the vehicle has no coolant leaks. Only time it leaked was when the cap went out, but after I replaced the cap, there are no leaks even when the vehicle is overheating

I also read somewhere online on how to bleed the system, if you guys could confirm I did it correctly?

1) Parked the vehicle on a steep incline with the engine 'up'

2) Took the hose off the coolant bottle that connects to the top of the radiator...waited until there was a steady stream of coolant, and then reconnected to the bottle.

3) Rev'd the motor to 2k and checked the coolant level....it was good.

4) Rev'd the motor to 3k and checked the coolant level....it was good.

5) Left the car at idle until the coolant gushed out of the bottle a little, so I put the cap back on.

You don't say whether it's petrol or diesel. Is your viscous fan operating normally? It sounds though if you're not getting any heat out of the heater, it's either air locked or you have a problem with the heater itself (any book symbol?). Feel the hoses going into the heater. Are they heating up or are they cold? If cold, you still have an air lock.

if V8, I think it does sound like the thermostat not opening. I know you said you replaced it, but did you test it before fitting it?
I don't think that would explain 'no heat from heater' thoug - maybe there's an airlock too.
btw I don't have a p38, so comments not based on experience...

try turning the heater of full when you is bleeding it, you could have air lock in the heater box..

I would check the condition of your fan belt then your water pump.

ladyranger said:

I would check the condition of your fan belt then your water pump.

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go on ladyranger get down there show him how to do it. lol

J I'll be coming down to show you summit in a minute cheeky!!

cant wait hurry up. lol

Remove the thermostat and try it without one in, if it's still the same it could be your water pump. I've had the impeller shear off so it looks fine but is moving no water.
On a worst case if it's a 4.6 it could be the block but hopefully it's not.

Raz1918 said:

Remove the thermostat and try it without one in, if it's still the same it could be your water pump. I've had the impeller shear off so it looks fine but is moving no water.
On a worst case if it's a 4.6 it could be the block but hopefully it's not.

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you can not run a v8 p38 without a the thermostat..

is the small hose from the rad to header tank blocked? if you still have the old stat knock the middle out of it and try that,does water flow thro the header tank when the engine is running ,if she still overheats try irontite follow instructions to the letter,if it still overheats probable needs a new engine due to droped liners/porous block,just been there but my top hose was rock hard due to pressure in the system,sounds more like an air lock tho,
add your location in your profile someone near my be able to take a look for you/check your burping the system correctly

j the range said:

try turning the heater of full when you is bleeding it, you could have air lock in the heater box..

Click to expand...

All land rover since the range rover have a constant flow heater you cannot switch the water flow though the heater off


Me personally either a stat fault or the impeller has fallen off the water pump