£300 Freelander project! ... my first ever Land Rover

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damian46 said:
Have downloaded but won't open do I need to do this on a laptop as there is nothing happening on phone I'm not up on this technical life
Click to expand...
It needs to be run on a Windows PC/laptop.

It is an ISO image, so you 'mount' it and it looks like another hard drive on your computer. You run the .exe application (which is a version of the Adobe PDF reader).
 
GrumpyGel said:
It needs to be run on a Windows PC/laptop.

It is an ISO image, so you 'mount' it and it looks like another hard drive on your computer. You run the .exe application (which is a version of the Adobe PDF reader).
Click to expand...
Cheers Grumpy
I do most things on my phone so not up on most computer things I will get the laptop out and give it a go 😁
 
GrumpyGel said:
It definitely sounds like a bargain.

Good call with the tyres and reinstating 4WD.

Mines been 2WD for over 10 years now. I definitely miss having the 4WD - but obviously not that much. Its been a cracking motor for what we use it for.

It looks like this isn't the first problem with the back door if the screws are not in place. That sound like experience from previous pain!
Click to expand...
Cheers, yeah hope so.

I've got a theory on the tailgate issue as well. Neither the window nor the latch operate when bypassing the microswitch. I think that tells me is that it must be a wiring fault. If the window came down a bit but the latch didnt release then i'd think it was the solenoid but because they are both triggered by the microswitch and neither works it must be that no power is getting to the microswitch.

I bypassed it yesterday by joining the two black microswitch wires and flashing the blue one across them ... nothing! so no power is getting to the microswitch at all which I think reinforces my theory. Of course it could also be component failure of solenoid as well but my hunch is that it must be chaffed wires or (i think) there is a relay controlling the latch / window drop behind the panel on the offside of the boot. Maybe it's that. I'll test that theory tomorrow.

Also removed the front seats prior to deep cleansing the interior. Turns out I've got a CD multichanger bolted under the passenger seat as well as the seat heaters, nice! The drivers seat doesn't tilt back (3 door) but I've found the broken cable in that and ordered a replacement. Simple cheap fix, just what I like!

Aside from that I still have to tackle the indicator / brake light issue. Only theorizing here but I assume that wiring runs from the flasher unit to all 4 corners of the car and wiring runs from the brake pedal switch to the rear corners. So I'm assuming the only place that those wires come anywhere near each other is in the rear light clusters. The issue must be in there somewhere. Another little puzzle to solve, hoping that's a simple one.

And then I think I will lanoguard the underside, sort that coil spring out and should be ready for a ticket. Fingers crossed.
 
FirebladeGuy said:
Cheers, yeah hope so.

I've got a theory on the tailgate issue as well. Neither the window nor the latch operate when bypassing the microswitch. I think that tells me is that it must be a wiring fault. If the window came down a bit but the latch didnt release then i'd think it was the solenoid but because they are both triggered by the microswitch and neither works it must be that no power is getting to the microswitch.

I bypassed it yesterday by joining the two black microswitch wires and flashing the blue one across them ... nothing! so no power is getting to the microswitch at all which I think reinforces my theory. Of course it could also be component failure of solenoid as well but my hunch is that it must be chaffed wires or (i think) there is a relay controlling the latch / window drop behind the panel on the offside of the boot. Maybe it's that. I'll test that theory tomorrow.
Click to expand...
I like your logic - it makes sense.

However! In threads on the forum when things don't happen at all on the back door (window/latch/wiper), I feel its generally a component that is faulty and stopping other components from working. Everything goes back via the CCU, so, for example, pull the switch, the CCU drops the window then pings the solenoid. If the window won't wind, it won't ping the solenoid. In fact, if the switch isn't faulty - its almost always the window regulator.

When things behave strangely, I feel its often the wiring.

You're right about relays in the boot. There are 2 (or a double unit) there for lowering/raising the window. I don't know about solenoid power.
FirebladeGuy said:
Aside from that I still have to tackle the indicator / brake light issue. Only theorizing here but I assume that wiring runs from the flasher unit to all 4 corners of the car and wiring runs from the brake pedal switch to the rear corners. So I'm assuming the only place that those wires come anywhere near each other is in the rear light clusters. The issue must be in there somewhere. Another little puzzle to solve, hoping that's a simple one.
Click to expand...
You could very well be homing in on the right area.

There are/is earths in that boot area. IIRC there is a common earth in the lamp unit for the bulbs that is prone to corrosion and causing strange behaviour.

The Rave manual is an awesome tool for diagnosing these types of faults. There are full circuit diagrams that are pretty easy to follow. Different sections of wiring have their own diagram, the wire colours are documented as are which pins in which connector they go to. The best bit though is that there is a picture of every connector - so you can see exactly where it is (once you've put the pic into perspective). These connector pics also include earthing points.

www.landyzone.co.uk

Rave disk maintenance manual

I'm putting this ere so I can link to it. If you can see adverts on this page selling car repair manuals, DONT click on them. They're sneaky adverts from google which detect words used in this fred, on the chance you will be attracted to click on said advert. The adverts are trying to get you...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
Welcome to the forum. You're right, Freelanders are fun to own, work on and drive. Most mechanical parts are readily available new of even from dismantlers. Front suspension: swapping out a complete strut is not to bad a job to do. Make sure the vehicle is supported... A 'goodish' socket set 1/2" drive and another 3/8" drive as well as a set of ring & open ended spanners will certainly get you on your way. Iv'e had my '98 K1.8 since 2014. It was a non-runner then and cost about 600 quid. Iv'e done a lot to it: motor, cooling, suspension, diff, drive line... interior

Look forward to see your progress - there is a lot of good info' on here.
 
If you get the "RAVE All Models" zip-file from my google drive & exctract the files, you can then get individual PDF for each section. Then copy them elsewhere & rename as required.

**** Include your forum name in the message box when requesting, or no access ***
1715783558029.png


Note: quite a bit of this RAVE version is NAS specific, but most of it is the same for UK & EU cars.

The Freelander stuff is in the folder "rave all models / pdf / ln01". For example the file "wmln012n" is the Workshop Service Procedures section. The files can be opened using any PDF reader.

1710927574169.png
 
Last edited:
pwood999 said:
If you get the "RAVE All Models" zip-file from my google drive & exctract the files, you can then get individual PDF for each section. Then copy them elsewhere & rename as required.

Note: quite a bit of this RAVE version is NAS specific, but most of it is the same for UK & EU cars.

The Freelander stuff is in the folder "rave all models / pdf / ln01". For example the file "wmln012n" is the Workshop Service Procedures section. The files can be opened using any PDF reader.

View attachment 313062
Click to expand...
Cheers
 
GrumpyGel said:
I like your logic - it makes sense.

However! In threads on the forum when things don't happen at all on the back door (window/latch/wiper), I feel its generally a component that is faulty and stopping other components from working. Everything goes back via the CCU, so, for example, pull the switch, the CCU drops the window then pings the solenoid. If the window won't wind, it won't ping the solenoid. In fact, if the switch isn't faulty - its almost always the window regulator.

When things behave strangely, I feel its often the wiring.

You're right about relays in the boot. There are 2 (or a double unit) there for lowering/raising the window. I don't know about solenoid power.

You could very well be homing in on the right area.

There are/is earths in that boot area. IIRC there is a common earth in the lamp unit for the bulbs that is prone to corrosion and causing strange behaviour.

The Rave manual is an awesome tool for diagnosing these types of faults. There are full circuit diagrams that are pretty easy to follow. Different sections of wiring have their own diagram, the wire colours are documented as are which pins in which connector they go to. The best bit though is that there is a picture of every connector - so you can see exactly where it is (once you've put the pic into perspective). These connector pics also include earthing points.

www.landyzone.co.uk

Rave disk maintenance manual

I'm putting this ere so I can link to it. If you can see adverts on this page selling car repair manuals, DONT click on them. They're sneaky adverts from google which detect words used in this fred, on the chance you will be attracted to click on said advert. The adverts are trying to get you...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Door's fixed! Real simple too and free ... which is great. Was a broken wire orange / black. Twisted the ends together, flashed across the microswitch, window dropped, door unlocked! Result!

Some sharp edges in that boot door though, found the insulation of a few other wires that were damaged so just tidying that all up now. I'll post a little video later, not sure it'll help anyone but just as a matter of interest.
 
FirebladeGuy said:
Apologies this is a 7 min chunk of a much longer video about the whole project .. so alot of me talking shi*! Might be interesting / useful for someone though.

Click to expand...

You've fixed it and well done for finding the problem.

But your diagnosis and information in the video is wrong.

The 3 wires on the micro switch do not go to the window regulator and solenoid. There is an earth and 2 wires to the CCU. The CCU then controls the other electrical items associated with opening the back door- ie the bits you say the wires go to. From Rave...

1711001156121.png


I have to say, I'm a bit confused by the above diagram because the window motor and lock solenoid look to be on the same connector C612 - but I thought they were 2 separate items in the door.

Its interesting because there is no central locking involved with the back door. Because opening is electronically controlled, the CCU simply determines if the micro switch should be listened to or not.
 
Alteredtech said:
The prop shaft was removed :eek: I missed that part.
💰So an IRD , a propshaft, and a refurbished VCU is needed.
Click to expand...
Maybe but maybe not. Lots of them are removed only because the support bearings have failed and removing the propshaft is the cheapest way to get it back on the road.
 
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FirebladeGuy said:
Apologies this is a 7 min chunk of a much longer video about the whole project .. so alot of me talking shi*! Might be interesting / useful for someone though.

Click to expand...

Your boot door is in fantastic condition. Most cars of that era have a huge rot hole under the handle resulting in the handle pulling off. Well done for finding the fault.
 
Update: She's booked in for MOT friday ... underside had the lanoguard treatment, seems a pretty impressive product but time will tell ... pretty sure I've fixed or replaced everything that might be an issue ... everything except the interior overhead light works (fuse ok, bulb looks good, dashboard and bootspace lights are fine) any ideas on that welcomed although not an immediate concern.

Only real issue is ... I did a full engine service on it earlier and the rear offside brake got stuck on whilst I was on the ramps. I'd chocked the wheels and maybe I put the handbrake on an extra click because I knew I'd be under the car. Anyway, came to get off the ramps and had to rock it in reverse gently trying to free it. Ultimately the ramps shot forward and I performed the fastest dismount in recorded history! ... no damage done except 2 nice scrapemarks on the driveway but the rear wheel was still stuck. Tried some more gentle rocking and eventually it freed off after I dragged it 12 inches, another nice little mark on the driveway!

Kinda ran out of daylight / rain came down so I've put it off for now. Handbrake seems to be strong, no dragging or binding at whilst driving, but forum posts seem to suggest linings coming off the shoe that side?

I did have a quick look and was at the point of struggling to see / locate / adjust the cog through the rear inspection panel (rubber bungs still present) when the rain came down and ended the work for today.

Just looking for vids and posts on this to prepare myself. The issue of course is that I can't get the drum off with the handbrake off.

Am I right in thinking I need to wind this adjuster off a bit to do this? and ...

Anyone got any tips on doing this? like .. which way do I wind it?

Haynes manual is not good on this although to be fair I literally gave up after 2 minutes due to the weather.

Cheers

John
 
Handbrake off. Wheel off. block of wood on drum. Sharp smack with hammer. The bottom link that attaches to cable gets stuck at pivot point. When drum off remove, derust, apply copper slip and replace.
 
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