L322 2005 model valve block locations

[LR-hobbs]

Hello everyone

Would anyone know the locations of the valve blocks?

I believe the front one is behind the driver side wheel arch liner.

Is there a rear one ?

Our l322 is still displaying air suspension inactive , it's had new rear bags but is still dropping in the rear when left overnight.

My diagnostic is displaying.

Too much energy needed rear right
Pre charge pump
Pressure static when filling air tank.


Cheers

 

[marjon]

Sounds like you may still have a leak somewhere and possibly a weak compressor or even a blockage.
From a manual I have the date is 2007 but I would expect the same.

J

 

[LR-hobbs]

Sounds like you may still have a leak somewhere and possibly a weak compressor or even a blockage.
From a manual I have the date is 2007 but I would expect the same.

J

Compressor is new so I doubt it but obviously possible.

Thank you for the pdf

 

[marjon]

Did you change the drier?
What did the content of the old 1 look like?
It’s not unheard of for the resiviour to have a pin hole, but that wouldn’t explain your saggy rear.
A valve not sealing because of desiccant breaking down and lodging in a valve or 2 could.

Happy hunting.

J

 

[LR-hobbs]

Sounds like you may still have a leak somewhere and possibly a weak compressor or even a blockage.
From a manual I have the date is 2007 but I would expect the same.

J
[/Q

Did you change the drier?
What did the content of the old 1 look like?
It’s not unheard of for the resiviour to have a pin hole, but that wouldn’t explain your saggy rear.
A valve not sealing because of desiccant breaking down and lodging in a valve or 2 could.

Happy hunting.

J

Where is the dryer located on the l322 ? I am currently rebuilding the dryer on my P38.

 

[marjon]

It’s a canister next to the compressor. Page 3 of the pdf.

J

 

[Blob]

Have you checked for leaks around the union on the new bag? I'm wondering if the pipe has got damaged when changing the bags, a bit of soapy water will help you out there.

The standout obscurity to me here is that it seems to know it's right rear but also "Pressure static when filling air tank" If you have a leaking bag that's so bad I don't suppose it will switch to trying to fill the air tank and even if the tank had a pinhole in it you'd expect to see the pressure change somewhat whilst the compressor is running.

If it sags over night then it must be capable of providing enough air for the lift sooo, I'd definitely be suspicious of the valve block and/or the changeover valve in the compressor itself, it's not unheard of to have two problems, one introduced by another).

 

[LR-hobbs]

Have you checked for leaks around the union on the new bag? I'm wondering if the pipe has got damaged when changing the bags, a bit of soapy water will help you out there.

The standout obscurity to me here is that it seems to know it's right rear but also "Pressure static when filling air tank" If you have a leaking bag that's so bad I don't suppose it will switch to trying to fill the air tank and even if the tank had a pinhole in it you'd expect to see the pressure change somewhat whilst the compressor is running.

If it sags over night then it must be capable of providing enough air for the lift sooo, I'd definitely be suspicious of the valve block and/or the changeover valve in the compressor itself, it's not unheard of to have two problems, one introduced by another).

Will definitely check that once we have the engine back together.

Can the valve block/ change over be tested with soapy water or is that a non serviceable item and has to be replaced?

Cheers

 

[Blob]

I've never done one myself but I'm sure I've read about people rebuilding them, no doubt someone clever with some actual experience will be along shortly to tell us where the best resources are. I expect mine will fail soon enough but I'm sure my compressor is starting to run a bit longer than usual these days and I have yet to replace my rear air springs so I expect they are as perished as the fronts and I'd better get some ordered. Prevention is better than cure and all that eh?

 

[Mark Piercy]

I've never done one myself but I'm sure I've read about people rebuilding them, no doubt someone clever with some actual experience will be along shortly to tell us where the best resources are. I expect mine will fail soon enough but I'm sure my compressor is starting to run a bit longer than usual these days and I have yet to replace my rear air springs so I expect they are as perished as the fronts and I'd better get some ordered. Prevention is better than cure and all that eh?

Maybe the guy with the enormous mechanical knowledge

 

[Blob]

Maybe the guy with the enormous mechanical knowledge

Can't believe you didn't just tag him!

We need another 60 pages of "Gotcha questions" whatever they are.

 

[Mark Piercy]

I'm ignoring him unfortunately, full stop....

 

[Blob]

Oh. My. God!

That wasn't a dare!

Get ready.

@LR-hobbs I'm so sorry we're hijacking this thread and derailing it! Mark and I will now have to personally find the answers to your questions to try and get this back on track.

 

[LR-hobbs]

Oh. My. God!

That wasn't a dare!

Get ready.
View attachment 345961
@LR-hobbs I'm so sorry we're hijacking this thread and derailing it! Mark and I will now have to personally find the answers to your questions to try and get this back on track.

Do as you must

 

[Blob]

I'm ignoring him unfortunately, full stop....

I'm pleased you've edited that!

 

[Mark Piercy]

Do as you must

Just a joke and I didn't want to take the importance from your thread kiddo
Mind you, it could have gone wrong, horribly wrong

 

[Blob]

Trying to make amends for earlier, have a look at this video of a valve block strip down on an LR3/4. I think it's the same as the one in the L322. Interestingly this one is slightly stuck on the balance between the left and right air springs.

Around 5:20 you see all the silica dust in there.


Might be useful on your diagnostic journey.