My crazy diff ratio change idea

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I am still trying to find what L322 had that ratio of diff. I asked you but you just pooh poohed my questions.

I cant find any reference for it anywhere, except GOS seconhand sales but they dont give any info as to which model had it.
So i could,
1) perhaps learn something myself.
2) maybe able to match up if they used the same casing for your year and what ever year they were used.

J
Google search "l322 diff ratio 2.76".

Answer in the attached image.

Time spent 30 seconds.

(I already said search the diff ratio on google but I guess you did not do that.)
 

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Google search "l322 diff ratio 2.76".

Answer in the attached image.

Time spent 30 seconds.

(I already said search the diff ratio on google but I guess you did not do that.)

Of course I googled, but I also looked at my TOPIX files (which I posted) the files are specific to 2011 TDV8 with 8 speed box. But do show others in specs.
So are you now telling me that JLR are telling porkies in thier own documentation?

Also in your attachment its says "is a common option particularly for the rear" So is it an "option" and why would they say for the rear? cos even I know that having different ratios in front and rear diffs is a bad idea.
So excuse me if I have a little doubt about your googled info.

J
 
Of course I googled, but I also looked at my TOPIX files (which I posted) the files are specific to 2011 TDV8 with 8 speed box. But do show others in specs.
So are you now telling me that JLR are telling porkies in thier own documentation?

Also in your attachment its says "is a common option particularly for the rear" So is it an "option" and why would they say for the rear? cos even I know that having different ratios in front and rear diffs is a bad idea.
So excuse me if I have a little doubt about your googled info.

J
I don't think you would believe anything that I showed you. Which is why I said I wouldn't waste my time answering your questions.

The 2.76 diff exists, which is all that matters. Who cares which car it was put in? I just need to know if it will fit in my car.

I would not care if it was from a BMW X5, if it fits in my car. If it matters to you then do the research and find out the answer.

This is WHY I declined to answer, as it makes no difference to my situation, but if it matters to you then use Google.

Hint, it goes in an eight speed diesel L322, "specifically the 4.4 TDV8 model from 2010-2013" as my answer stipulated.

RRPhil confirmed this elsewhere and that matches my Google answer.
 
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Just stumbled across this thread, read the first page and a bit then the last page.

Summary from what I have read:
Joins forum, lays out plan, doesn't like the questions or responses, starts argument.

The google image looks like Google's AI response to me, I can't be bothered to key in the search options to try and match the result but it's already decided so it's not worth the effort.

From the outset it looks as though the OP has a plan so just put the handbags down, fit different diffs and drive to Portugal.
 
Just stumbled across this thread, read the first page and a bit then the last page.

Summary from what I have read:
Joins forum, lays out plan, doesn't like the questions or responses, starts argument.

The google image looks like Google's AI response to me, I can't be bothered to key in the search options to try and match the result but it's already decided so it's not worth the effort.

From the outset it looks as though the OP has a plan so just put the handbags down, fit different diffs and drive to Portugal.
Maybe you should've read a little bit more because I need to know if the diff will fit and everyone seems to want to talk about everything else.

People keep telling me to just do it but there is no point in just doing it if it won't fit.

Instead of someone who actually knows what they are talking about answering my questions it seems that there are only people here who have no idea the answer to my question but feel the need to talk about things that have nothing to do with my question and then act like they are answering my question.

And if you actually looked, people got really angry with me before I responded in kind.

They got angry because I wouldn't do stupid things that they suggested that were completely irrelevant to my situation.

So let's try a different summary, OP asks a question, people without the answer waste his time for a day, insult him, and when he has finally has enough it's his fault.

If someone had an intelligent reason why I should not do it then I would listen to them. But reasons like "No one modifies cars any more" are not intelligent reasons. They are just baseless incorrect opinions and are therefore worthless.

My favorite comment I was the person that told me that everyone knows that I'm not concerned about fuel saving, directly after someone told me to put an LPG system on my car for fuel saving. Literally the post before his proved the exact opposite of what he said. He said it with such certainty when the facts were right there proving him wrong.
 
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Ferry to Bilbao for going to Portugal would out less strain on the engine and driver and ensure you actually get there in an L322.
I used to live in Portugal and I drove a Renault Cleo from there to England 10 years ago, so I know the trip reasonable well.

I will visit a friend in Belgium and a friend in Switzerland on the journey so the ferry is not an option.

I will also probably visit a friend in northern Spain, where I also used to live.
 
I meant 1,500. That is not high. It is not low. It is what it is. But 1,100 is lower. That is a fact.

I have a 23 year-old engine in a car that has probably had a little maintenance in the 150k miles that it has done.

I will not spend the time explaining to you the 20 reasons why I think that.

I just prefer to put less stress on the 23 year old engine in my car on a long trip.

If I drove to Portugal and back staying in third gear on the highway for hours at a time that would be dumb as it would put more stress on the engine than necessary.

Likewise if there is an easy way to drive for multiple days at 1,100 RPM instead of 1,500 RPM that would put less stress on my engine.

There is a reason why Range Rover put a six speed gearbox in the next version of this car.

There is a reason why they put an eight speed gearbox in another version of this car.

Anything that runs an engine at a lower RPM for a long period of time is a benefit to that engine, it's not rocket science.

I came here looking for technical answers about how to do it, not looking for endless discussions about my reasons for doing it.

I have not heard anything that would change my mind other than the comment that the engine might run in a bad area of the torque curve, which seems unlikely given that it accelerates well from 1,000 RPM to 1,500 RPM during my normal driving.
Not trying to be rude, but it sounds like you haven't really got a clue at all and no knowledge of anything mechanical. Just because one number is lower than other means pretty much f* all really.

What is your proof and rational that 1500rpm will cause problems over 1100rpm? And if it is so simple to fix, why don't you explain why Land Rover decided on the gearing they did?

23 years old and 150k is not very much tbh.

Just done a 600 mile Wales trip with some friends, one in a 1953 Series 1, another in a 1969 Series II. And here you are crying over spilt milk thinking a "modern" Range Rover will blow up if you cruise at 1500rpm......

BTW - where are you getting 1500rpm from? Having gone and looked up the gear ratios, the gearing calculator says 70mph is 2283rpm.
1751968474731.png


Changing to a 2.76 final drive would lower the cruising rpm in top at 70mph to 1689rpm:
1751968532908.png



But considering it also says you'd be able to do between 90-100mph in 2nd gear. I'd suggest that it would be massively over geared, completely horrid to drive, slower than a slug, dreadful on fuel and highly unlikely to actually be able to pull 5th gear in most situations.

But do go ahead with your plan, just report back how it all goes.....
 
Not trying to be rude, but it sounds like you haven't really got a clue at all and no knowledge of anything mechanical. Just because one number is lower than other means pretty much f* all really.

What is your proof and rational that 1500rpm will cause problems over 1100rpm? And if it is so simple to fix, why don't you explain why Land Rover decided on the gearing they did?

23 years old and 150k is not very much tbh.

Just done a 600 mile Wales trip with some friends, one in a 1953 Series 1, another in a 1969 Series II. And here you are crying over spilt milk thinking a "modern" Range Rover will blow up if you cruise at 1500rpm......

BTW - where are you getting 1500rpm from? Having gone and looked up the gear ratios, the gearing calculator says 70mph is 2283rpm.
View attachment 344860

Changing to a 2.76 final drive would lower the cruising rpm in top at 70mph to 1689rpm:
View attachment 344861


But considering it also says you'd be able to do between 90-100mph in 2nd gear. I'd suggest that it would be massively over geared, completely horrid to drive, slower than a slug, dreadful on fuel and highly unlikely to actually be able to pull 5th gear in most situations.

But do go ahead with your plan, just report back how it all goes.....
I have an enormous amount of mechanical experience but I don't really care to justify it to you. I don't know anyone who doesn't understand that a lower RPM for many hours is better for the longevity of an engine.

I am not talking about an engine the way that Land Rover designed it. I am talking about my specific engine which you know nothing about but you seem to think you know best.

As for the rest, I have already stated many times that I do not need acceleration. And yet you mentioned it as a key component of your argument against my idea.

This is why I don't bother to listen to you, because you did not listen to me. I told you what I needed, and all you have done is tell me that I don't need what I need.

If acceleration is a problem I just put it into low range for those moments. Do you know that my car has a low range transfer case?

My car will comfortably rev over 5,000 rpm and yet when I drive it I almost never go over 1,500 rpm. So the amount of acceleration that I need compared to what is available is less than the 24% difference in the differentials.

Whatever the actual RPM would be, as I have stated before, the only thing that matters is they would be 24% less. Like someone driving around in third gear on the highway instead of using fifth gear. That would be dumb, since it would put more stress on the engine than necessary.

As for it not going into 5th, as I already explained to somebody else, I can just manually select 5th gear on the gearbox if it will not automatically upshift.

This is the problem that I have with you, everything you say has a simple solution and yet you don't seem to know that solution.

Anyway this is getting boring, you are just repeating the same things that you have said over and over again. None of them apply to my situation as I explained in the beginning.

But please do suggest I spend thousands on an LPG system and 1 inch bigger wheels and tires or buy a new car just to avoid spending £200 on alternative differentials. Then you will be one more of the many people who didn't read my question and proposed ridiculous answers.
 
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Don’t worry if it doesn’t work you can just carry on playing the victim
I'm not playing the victim, all of you people crying because I won't listen to your dumb ideas are playing the victim.

Don't you get it, none of you have the answer to the question that I asked so instead of admitting that you don't know what you are talking about you have stupid ideas that don't work or don't relate to my situation.

And when I don't listen to you because they are stupid ideas you get offended.

I have seen this over the last year that I was watching this forum for actual information.

90% of the regular posters have no idea and just want to feel superior.

But it has been funny to experience it firsthand rather than just reading it.

My favorite was the "No one modifies cars any more" comment.

Tell that to the multi billion dollar car modification industry...

You people are hilarious.

I also have to give you special credit for saying once again that I should "just do it" even though I have said many times that I will not just do it when I can simply wait for someone who knows the answer to give it to me. The only logical reason why I shouldn't wait is because you people are the only ones who know anything about my car and therefore no one else will have the answer.

Do you understand the hubris in that? "I do not know the answer to your question and therefore there is no answer and therefore you should just do it and not wait for an answer from anyone else."

That is what you guys are saying.

Given that I'm not going for several months I have no rush and I can just wait to see if someone has the answer.

But as you don't have it I'm not going to listen to you any more.

And as I have said before, on another forum RRPhil gave me a wonderful detailed answer with facts, not opinions and insults.

His answer really helped me, because he explained with numbers and facts that I can drive around in second gear and see what that feels like as it will be close to what my first gear would feel like with the change.

That was very helpful knowledgeable information and I really appreciate him giving it to me, not insulting me.

What a great guy he is.
 
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Quite, the key to less strain on the engine and better fuel consumption is to drive at peak torque, or slower, as you say labouring is not clever at all.
I agree but if I look at the torque curve for my VANOS equipped engine it will be OK.

I posted the torque curve earlier on here.

Here it is again to save you looking for it.
 

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I have an enormous amount of mechanical experience....

If acceleration is a problem I just put it into low range for those moments

My car will comfortably rev over 5,000 rpm

As for it not going into 5th, as I already explained to somebody else, I can just manually select 5th gear on the gearbox if it will not automatically upshift.
1751973947653.png
 
peak torque is to be found here

My concern is RPM and having the engine doing less constant revolutions over a one month trip. Obviously driving constantly at 5,000 RPM puts more wear on an engine than driving constantly at 1,000 RPM. That is not something that I need to debate here.

Will the engine labor at a lower RPM? It is essentially the same as manually upshifting earlier than the gearbox wants to. I have done this and I have not experienced any problem with the engine load.

This car is designed to tow while fully loaded up hills and I will be doing none of that. But if I needed a little bit more power going up a hill in 1st I can just engage the low range gear.
 
Like I said, you people throw out insults but you don't have any facts.

Literally telling me that the gearbox will not go into fifth gear when it has a manual function that can be moved into fifth gear.

But then finding it offensive when I pointed out this fact to you...

Any decent person would just say "Oh yeah I forgot about that, you are right."

Or they would give me factual reason reasons why it would not go into fifth gear despite it being selected.

But given that I can put it into fifth gear quite easily just driving around town I cannot imagine that it would struggle at 70mph.

But then again, childish meme picture...
 
And as I have said before, on another forum RRPhil gave me a wonderful detailed answer with facts, not opinions and insults.

His answer really helped me, because he explained with numbers and facts that I can drive around in second gear and see what that feels like as it will be close to what my first gear would feel like with the change.

That was very helpful knowledgeable information and I really appreciate him giving it to me, not insulting me.

What a great guy he is.

I get the impression you are connected by more than merely a choice of forum to RRPhil. :vb-agree:
 
Fit bigger wheels & tyres and a lpg kit, instant rpm reduced/cheaper fuel.

Change axle diffs what about the centre diff ratio as they dont match the transfer box, so what happens when you need
to go faster eg up hill when you need higher revs...now your motor has to rev more than before so there goes your fuel
saved on the motorway.

TBH I think its a ball ache to do the work and your not gaining anything, the money youve spent on parts/time will be more
than you would have paid at the pump on the trip.

Im wondering how the mot tester can see your diffs are corroded unless you mean the casings ??
You have put up here what I was thinking all along as I have only just come to this thread.
LPG is very well supported in France, which he'll be driving through at 130 kph, I assume. And I was also wondering how these cars are built if the diff casings are worrying him? Presumably not beam axle.

Can i BA to read the rest of this amusing thread? Hmm!
 
I get the impression you are connected by more than merely a choice of forum to RRPhil. :vb-agree:
I don't understand what you are talking about.

I posted three different questions on two different forums so as to get a wide range of people to look at them in order to get the answers to my questions.

It just happens that RRPhil chose to answer me on the other forum, and his answer was night and day different to all of the garbage that I have been given here.

He could've equally chosen to answer me on this forum, but he didn't, why I don't know.

I don't know him other than seeing him on the forums and him once helping me with a problem that I had with my gearbox.

I only mention him because he gives a contrasting behavior to the nutcases that I have seen here over the last day.
 
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