Serious Battery drain

[Shedload]

First stop, have you checked the battery drain since you solved the bonnet issue ?
Now, gotta be honest, I know the principle of parasitic draw. You place your multi meter across the battery post and disconnected lead and read milliamps. Pull relays one at a time and watch for reading to drop, then go through that circuit.
But I will leave it to those better placed to explain properly.

 

[Sivakumar]

Update:
I left the car double locked for about an hour and left the bonnet open. Came back didn’t unlock or touch the key fob to awake the car. Checked inside can see the red alarm light on so to confirm the car is still locked. Took the multimeter checked the battery volt it’s showing 12.2 which is quite same as when the car is awake. I am not sure what to do next.

 

[Shedload]

So 12.2 is a bit low for a static battery. Has the Hazard light illumination gone out ?
If this has not gone out then the car is still awake.

 

[pwood999]

Step-1: Buy the DC Clamp meter recommended by Alibro above.
Step-2: Don't try putting a multimeter in-line with the battery feed unless you know what you're doing. Use the clamp meter & note the value after the car is off & locked for at least 10mins..
Step-3: Pull specific fuses / relays one at a time, and check the current drain drops accordingly.
Step-4: If the current did not change in step-3 than that circuit is probably not the problem.
Step-5: Repeat 3, 4 for each ECU, Radio, CD, NAV, etc. in turn.

 

[Nodge68]

12.2 Volts is a dead battery. They should hold over 12.6 after 24 hours.

 

[Sivakumar]

12.2 Volts is a dead battery. They should hold over 12.6 after 24 hours.

Or is something draining charge from the battery ?

 

[Freddie17]

Or is something draining charge from the battery ?

Unless you check it, or replace it, as previously advised a couple of times now, we’ll never know!

 

[pwood999]

I have an old (6-7 years) battery 110AH, 750 EN in my garage I use as a temporary 12V supply for testing EAS Valve Bocks, Stereos, etc. It gets charged about once per month usually the day before I need it.

Right now it's measuring 12.2V or 50% in the voltage check, but after an overnight charge it usually shows 100%. Capacity check shows 58% of the rated 750-EN spec and goes up to about 85% after charging. Essentially it's knackered & I would never use it on a car. 100% charge does not mean full capacity to either hold a charge or reliably start the car.

So did Halfords check the amount of charge or the capacity ?

 

[Freddie17]

I have an old (6-7 years) battery 110AH, 750 EN in my garage I use as a temporary 12V supply for testing EAS Valve Bocks, Stereos, etc. It gets charged about once per month usually the day before I need it.

Right now it's measuring 12.2V or 50% in the voltage check, but after an overnight charge it usually shows 100%. Capacity check shows 58% of the rated 750-EN spec and goes up to about 85% after charging. Essentially it's knackered & I would never use it on a car. 100% charge does not mean full capacity to either hold a charge or reliably start the car.

So did Halfords check the amount of charge or the capacity ?


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I have the same charger
Not too bad for the money…

 

[Shedload]

So did Halfords check the amount of charge or the capacity ?

When I have used Halfords in the past, they did both.

 

[GrumpyGel]

So did Halfords check the amount of charge or the capacity ?

When I have used Halfords in the past, they did both.

Probably using 1 of the "quality" battery testers they sell inhouse.

Using "highly trained" operatives.