Freelander 2 MPG?? (Thinking of switching from Disco2)

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Yer lose a bit of mpg with an auto but yer dun't need to do a clutch change. So it balances out on cost. Sliping a clutch when pulling away towing up a slope or oft road... yer can sometimes smell the clutch. Auto gets round this.
 
While we're waving our will showing our dash displays...

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Yer lose a bit of mpg with an auto but yer dun't need to do a clutch change. So it balances out on cost. Sliping a clutch when pulling away towing up a slope or oft road... yer can sometimes smell the clutch. Auto gets round this.
Which is fine if the box or TC doesn't pack a sad.

In which case, you have a far bigger bill than replacing a clutch.
 
Here's a tip for improving the mpg on an auto FL2. Snick the gear knob to the left and change up a gear manually a bit earlier than it would in auto. On a long 'A' road run, where you could be sitting all day at 50 or 60 mph in 5th gear, you can pop it into 6th and watch the mpg climb. I've seen 40 mpg on a long stretch of 50 mph roadworks on the M6 and on the A9.
The lie-ometer is important though. I reset it every time I fill up. If the average mpg drops it's an indication of something going wrong (or I've let the wife drive).
 
Here's a tip for improving the mpg on an auto FL2. Snick the gear knob to the left and change up a gear manually a bit earlier than it would in auto. On a long 'A' road run, where you could be sitting all day at 50 or 60 mph in 5th gear, you can pop it into 6th and watch the mpg climb. I've seen 40 mpg on a long stretch of 50 mph roadworks on the M6 and on the A9.
The lie-ometer is important though. I reset it every time I fill up. If the average mpg drops it's an indication of something going wrong (or I've let the wife drive).
Actually, I was pondering that today whilst toodling along at about 45mph - thought the revs sounded a bit high - and pondered popping the lever over and changing gear myself.

I've only ever put it into manual control coming down long steep hills before.

Tis interesting, cos on acceleration some times, I feel it has chosen a to higher gear, but it feels like its got buckets of power and just continues to pull really impressively.

My display only tells me what gear it is in when I pop the lever over to manual, which is a bit of a pain.
 
Yer lose a bit of mpg with an auto but yer dun't need to do a clutch change. So it balances out on cost. Sliping a clutch when pulling away towing up a slope or oft road... yer can sometimes smell the clutch. Auto gets round this.
Yes, long term cost wise I suspect auto MAY be cheaper. But horses for courses, in my life the fill up cost is a bigger problem day to day than the need to find a chunk for a replacement clutch. Yes I get the point that it might be false economy to see manuals as cheaper to run overall.
 
Value in the CCF.
It was a percentage, but didn't seem to to bear any reference to the calculated value on the dash. Maybe it is percentage of injector opening time or some other low level value
Thanks, assume you need some kind of programmer to do this?
 
Spot the difference a day makes in Canterbury when a foehn norwest wind heating up warm Tasman air as it comes off the Southern Alps turns southerly dragging up cold Antarctic air from the Southern Ocean.
Holy crap. Opposite of up here! I was sweating my balls off! Must have been 90% humid, but "only" 26C.

Prolly doesn't help that I changed jobs - no longer in Public health, where you get to do stuff-all for double the pay... I now work in a giant laundry factory... and it gets hot and humid even before the weather does :rolleyes:. At least I don't have to deal with major mis-management though!
 
Which is top spec, XS or SE?
HSE or HSE LUX is the top spec, but they're always overpriced for a couple of extra comforts. As Freddie said, the SE is generally the best spec for the money, as it has everything the HSE has, but misses on fully leather seats (unless optioned) memory mirrors, and the Logic 7 sound system, but otherwise they have the same equipment. The SE gets sensible 17" wheels as standard, the HSE gets 18", which are more expensive for tyres, with less tyre choices available.

A Freelander 2 is much better to drive than a D2, they're generations apart from each other in that respect.

Driven sensibly, I got 45 MPG out of mine on a near 300 mile trip to London, and that was with a failing head gasket.
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Holy crap. Opposite of up here! I was sweating my balls off! Must have been 90% humid, but "only" 26C.

Prolly doesn't help that I changed jobs - no longer in Public health, where you get to do stuff-all for double the pay... I now work in a giant laundry factory... and it gets hot and humid even before the weather does :rolleyes:. At least I don't have to deal with major mis-management though!
You have no excuses for dirty smalls now!

Hope the job works out.
 
HSE or HSE LUX is the top spec, but they're always overpriced for a couple of extra comforts. As Freddie said, the SE is generally the best spec for the money, as it has everything the HSE has, but misses on fully leather seats (unless optioned) memory mirrors, and the Logic 7 sound system, but otherwise they have the same equipment. The SE gets sensible 17" wheels as standard, the HSE gets 18", which are more expensive for tyres, with less tyre choices available.

A Freelander 2 is much better to drive than a D2, they're generations apart from each other in that respect.

Driven sensibly, I got 45 MPG out of mine on a near 300 mile trip to London, and that was with a failing head gasket.
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Excellent info thanks. Have you ever done brim to brim calculation to see how close your computer is to real world figures?
Are you in Cornwall? if so whereabouts?
What year/model are you driving? (Signature needs an update ;) !)
 
Excellent info thanks. Have you ever done brim to brim calculation to see how close your computer is to real world figures?
Are you in Cornwall? if so whereabouts?
What year/model are you driving? (Signature needs an update ;) !)
Yes, Mid Cornwall.
 
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