National Windscreens is hopeless

[Gingerbread]

I had a cracked windscreen replaced by National windscreens....twice and the problem is still there!

There are gaps between the applied PU sealant bead and glass along the top edge.

It seems to stem from the D2 screen's built in rubber shield/seal along the top edge. It prevents the screen from naturally seating down on the PU sealant. I have seen pictures of others doing it with straps/tape around A-pillars resting on big blocks positioned at the top of the screen to force the glass down.

Has anyone advice as to what I should do? I don;t think the clowns from National windscreens have the ability to figure this out. I am thinking perhaps I can remove the headliner and seal the gaps from the inside.

I should also ask my money back as they did not supply something fit for purpose.

 

[Anaconda]

Make them do it again.
My son had his done by a chap who used to spend his day refitting them for warranty work when new. He used plenty of glue and the seal to the roof fits good and nothing leaks.

 

[Knappster]

They replaced the windscreen on my old disco 2 in around 2013. It had a heated windscreen, which showed on the spec when I called them and was confirmed as a straight replacement. The guy turned up with a non heated screen, saying they didn’t have a heated one in stock and did I mind a non heated screen! Needless to say he was sent away to come back with a suitable one.

The following week, two different fitters turned up and did a decent job.

 

[Gingerbread]

Did any of you guys have fitters strap down the top of the screen or somehow apply additional pressure to seat the seal properly? The guys I had clearly never did this. I am pretty sure all of the D2 screens they fitted were not sealed along to the top edge.

 

[Anaconda]

Did any of you guys have fitters strap down the top of the screen or somehow apply additional pressure to seat the seal properly? The guys I had clearly never did this. I am pretty sure all of the D2 screens they fitted were not sealed along to the top edge.

No

 

[Gingerbread]

I have now finally a windscreen fitted with no gaps, leaks or holes. Hallelujah!

To overcome the insufficient depth of seating along the top of the glass they first pre heated the top rubber strip with a heat lamp to soften it. Then they installed the glass with ratchet straps and suction cups on the inside of the vehicle to pull the screen inwards along the top edge.

One thing I learned in this process is that pretty much all windscreens fitted without these steps (ie. all mobile fitters) will inevitably have gaps along the top edge. This I believe will give rise to leaks and wind noise. Once my screen was correctly fitted there was a very noticeable reduction of wind noise.

Additionally, it is not hard to check your own windscreen by inspecting with a light pointed up into the top joint from within the cabin. The headliner is sufficiently clear of the glass to allow this.

 

[Gingerbread]

I checked my D2 yesterday having not used the car for a few months and noticed the driver footwell carpet was wet. I checked the windscreen sealant bead with a torch and inspection mirror and the seal is intact all round. I went through a lot of pain getting national windscreens to install the windscreen 3 times to get a good seal, so I am pretty frustrated.

Both sunroof windows have been sealed up. There is no dampness of the headliner. So I am suspecting the cause is the body panel joints in the screen recess on the top two corners. I have attached a photo of this area before my new screen went in.

Here are my questions:
1. Would water ingress at these joints result in a wet footwell carpet?
2. Are there any other sources of water ingress that also results in a wet footwell?

 

[Dippypud]

I checked my D2 yesterday having not used the car for a few months and noticed the driver footwell carpet was wet. I checked the windscreen sealant bead with a torch and inspection mirror and the seal is intact all round. I went through a lot of pain getting national windscreens to install the windscreen 3 times to get a good seal, so I am pretty frustrated.

Both sunroof windows have been sealed up. There is no dampness of the headliner. So I am suspecting the cause is the body panel joints in the screen recess on the top two corners. I have attached a photo of this area before my new screen went in.

Here are my questions:
1. Would water ingress at these joints result in a wet footwell carpet?
2. Are there any other sources of water ingress that also results in a wet footwell?

Blocked aircon drainage tubes ? Heater matrix leaking ? Leaking bulkhead join ?

Dab the 'puddle' with a white tissue and see if the water is coloured ...

 

[hughdavies]

Wet footwells usualy mean your bulkhead, inner wing , floor pan has holes in it where they join up. Have a look under the wing where the lip is and under the bonnet sound proofing. Hope I am wrong cause it aint easy or cheap to fix.

 

[lynall]

Captain Tolly creeping crack (think that is the correct name!) cure works.

 

[Gingerbread]

Blocked aircon drainage tubes ? Heater matrix leaking ? Leaking bulkhead join ?

Dab the 'puddle' with a white tissue and see if the water is coloured ...

THe water seems to be clear and uncolored.

 

[Gingerbread]

Wet footwells usualy mean your bulkhead, inner wing , floor pan has holes in it where they join up. Have a look under the wing where the lip is and under the bonnet sound proofing. Hope I am wrong cause it aint easy or cheap to fix.

Can you help me understand where this joint is? Should I remove the wheel arch liners to see this spot?

 

[Dippypud]

THe water seems to be clear and uncolored.

Could well be condensate then ...

 

[meego]

Can you help me understand where this joint is? Should I remove the wheel arch liners to see this spot?

Engine bay where the inner wing meets the bulkhead under the brake servo right in the corner. Nightmare

 

[Gingerbread]

Engine bay where the inner wing meets the bulkhead under the brake servo right in the corner. Nightmare

I see. Reaching in it does feel a bit damp and crusty under the servo. Presumably this area can be accessed and treated with the servo removed?

 

[meego]

I see. Reaching in it does feel a bit damp and crusty under the servo. Presumably this area can be accessed and treated with the servo removed?

There’s a good chance some welding could be required. There is an oval hole down there where the loom goes through the bulkhead. The bottom of that might be rotten as well. I done the passenger side on mine a few years ago and it was a pig of a job. But I done it with the wing on. If I had to do it again I would take the wing off for better access. The other problem is the inner wing could be rotten where the wing fixes to it.

 

[Gingerbread]

There’s a good chance some welding could be required. There is an oval hole down there where the loom goes through the bulkhead. The bottom of that might be rotten as well. I done the passenger side on mine a few years ago and it was a pig of a job. But I done it with the wing on. If I had to do it again I would take the wing off for better access. The other problem is the inner wing could be rotten where the wing fixes to it.

I plan to do some work to the right side wheel arch area anyways as there is rot on the arches behind the plastic guards.

Do you have any photos of the work you did?

Are there any others here on this forum who have repaired leaky bulkheads and can share their experience?

 

[Gingerbread]

I found this thread:

Disco 2 - Water Leak - sorry - but please help!!

So apologies for yet another Disco 2 water leak story. I bought my 2001 TD5 last year during the 'great drought' so dry carpet everywhere! Unfortunately as the weather changed I became aware that there was water leaking in, headlining was wet and there was water in the driver's footwell under...

www.landyzone.co.uk

It had this photo of the bulkhead hole where the loom passes through. Meego, is this what you are referring to?

 

[hughdavies]

If you already know you have a rust problem in this area you need to remove the soundproofing, also check the scuttle panel and wiper area. The welding is the easy part, removing all the flamable stuff on the inside is not so easy.

 

[Dippypud]

If you already know you have a rust problem in this area you need to remove the soundproofing, also check the scuttle panel and wiper area. The welding is the easy part, removing all the flamable stuff on the inside is not so easy.

Not to mention the wiring, which is bad enough without welding help ...