HDC & 1 Amigo

[coltron1]

Hi all...
Picked up a 2007 GS with a few issues, the biggest one being the Terrain response system.

The good news is that the diff/haldex seem ok, ( a jacked up rear wheel can spin). Tested the pump on multi meter (4 ohm) and heard the pump whur - up briefly

I've replaced the haldex/diff module ( known good) to no effect. wiring good/clean connector and no visible cable chafing under the car?

I've read a few threads suggesting other modules might be causing this issue ( The terrain amber light comes on immediately when the car ignition is on, and doesn't go off) :-

ABS - 0136 lost communication with diff
BCM - 0136 lost communication with diff
ATM - 0136 lost comms...

I think my Icar scanner is telling me DSC & HDS are not activated......when i press either of these buttons in the car, the scanner shows they will activate for a split second, then default to inactive again.

Some threads talk of the ABS module, though ABS reports tone wheels fine ( monitored during a test drive and have no codes)
SAS has no faults, and has been calibrated a few times (steer full left - then right - then to centre) and has sensible figures for angle.

Not sure what the BCM has to do with Terrain response, but seems neither the BCM or the ABS can or won't talk with the diff module

The infotainment module/system requires coding to the car, as the unit keeps telling me the VIN doesn't match.
The instrument pack reckons the odometer has been altered, though MOT'S support the reading?

The battery is brand new, and the alternator supplied a good voltage 14.6v ish
The engine is sweet, but think the throttle body may have issues, with P02E9 - P02E1 (missing actuator teeth?) though haven't pulled the unit yet.

Before I start looking for broken/chafed wires to cure the p0136 code , has any of the forum experienced the 1 amigo terrain warning.

Any help appreciated.

 

[Alteredtech]

Hi,

Personnaly I don’t buy that sort of cars, they goes from owner to owner. Each buyer think he can fix it, and finaly sell it with more issues.

Good luck

 

[coltron1]

Cheers, I like the colour and its only one warning light ha ha

 

[coltron1]

Decided to get an eBay clone JLR mangoose cable and SDD v160,,,coming from china so may be a week or 2,s wait. At the very least I may be able to sort the radio out?

 

[coltron1]

Throttle body was found defective and replaced. MAP sensor changed as original was broke at the stem..no more engine codes at present. Still have the amber terrain light.

 

[Freddie17]

Checked all the fuses to start with?
The Haldex fuse is in the box in the boot. If that is removed or blown, your Haldex ecm won’t communicate with anything, and you’ll get the error on the dash.

 

[Arctic2]

( I've replaced the haldex/diff module ( known good) to no effect. wiring good/clean connector and no visible cable chafing under the car? )did you put the old module back on the car as they are coded to each car.

 

[coltron1]

mmmm,,,,,changing the diff/haldex module didn't change anything code wise, but fair shout (Arctic 2).

I trawled a few threads to check if coding was needed but found nothing to support coding the module, the link below talks about the haldex module.

https://www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk/threads/solved-change-of-haldex-electronic-need-of-reprogramming-or-not.23361/

if you have a link saying the module definitely needs coding, that would be great.?

My current working assumption is - the diff module isn't at fault. (always room for doubt though)

As for fuses, ( Freddie17), the Fuse in the white box in the boot is fine, as are the 2 fuses under the glove box.

The JLR SDD diagnostic might point the way?

Thanks for replies

 

[Alteredtech]

Hi

You have changed the modul with a preowned or new one ? If it’s a preowned one how do know is good

Regards.

 

[coltron1]

Good question (Alteredtech)...The pre-owned module is off my original 2010 (Santorini black) Freelander 2, which has no _ All terrain codes or warning lights, despite the haldex clutch pack locking up the rear wheels.and a whining diff.

The diff from the black FR2 is now on the garage floor waiting for a diff rebuild kit, so borrowed the module for the new/old 2007 (Caspian blue) Freelander 2 . the diff on this car seems good _ no whines and the haldex is free spinning, ( not locked up). Just the AT special programmes disabled warning ...before the car is started?....and while running...?

 

[Freddie17]

Good question...The pre-owned module is off my original 2010 (Santorini black) Freelander 2, which has no _ All terrain codes or warning lights, despite the haldex clutch pack locking up the rear wheels.and a whining diff.

The diff from the black FR2 is now on the garage floor waiting for a diff rebuild kit, so borrowed the module for the new/old 2007 (Caspian blue) Freelander 2 . the diff on this car seems good _ no whines and the haldex is free spinning, ( not locked up). Just the AT special programmes disabled warning ...before the car is started?....and while running...?

I think (you need to check further) that your 2010 has a Haldex gen 4, and your 2007 will be a gen 3.
Not sure they are interchangeable.

 

[Arctic2]

Check out the link below he also has some videos on youtube.

Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd – Haldex Mail order parts and ECU repair services

www.haldexrepairs.co.uk

Auto Fault Finder

We are the world leaders in Haldex ECU repair for VW, Audi, Seat, Skoda, Volvo, Ford and Land Rover / Range Rover 4wd vehicles. With hundreds of hours of development and reverse engineering, our bespoke Haldex ECU bench testing rig enables us to test and repair all Generation 2, 3, 4 and 5...

www.youtube.com

 

[coltron1]

Thanks Arctic 2

 

[coltron1]

Thanks Freddie, yes, the older Freelanders haldex should be stock gen 3, and 2010 gen 4.....though side by side, both units are physically identical.

Both haldex units have the same pump and filter position, see link below

Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd – Haldex Mail order parts and ECU repair services

www.haldexrepairs.co.uk

The site led me to think both cars have gen 3??..

I will check haldex serial numbers, which should clear things up.

 

[Freddie17]

Thanks Freddie, yes, the older Freelanders haldex should be stock gen 3, though side by side, both units are physically identical, my thinking is they are both high miles cars, and may of had replacement units put in...especially the 2007.

Both units have the same pump and filter position, unless your saying that the changes between haldex 3 - 4 are inside the casing?....

I believe they are different inside. Look on the website @Arctic2 linked to - that site shows how to identify the different Haldex generations.

Have a read here…

Freel2.com - View topic - Replace Gen3 Haldex with Gen4?

www.freel2.com

 

[coltron1]

I've had a closer look at both units (photos below) ... and there are indeed subtle and glaring differences in the casing and equipment...

The first image is the ( Santorini) black FR2's Haldex (on the garage floor)

The second image is the Haldex in the (Caspian) blue 2007 car

The oil pump on each picture looks very different,
The 2007 haldex ( gen 3) oil filter position in bottom picture is peeking just above the smooth black pump on the left
Compared with the 2010 haldex (gen 4) top picture, where an oil filter can not be seen to the left of the nipple ended pump.

Conclusion. The terrain/haldex modules will have to be changed back over as gen3 and gen4, may not be like for like control modules......( or are they?????)...lets ask google AI search :-

No, a Gen 3 Haldex control module cannot be directly replaced with a Gen 4 Haldex control module; while the physical coupling might fit, the control units (ECUs) are not interchangeable between generations and are designed to work with their specific system parameters, meaning a Gen 4 control module will not function correctly with a Gen 3 Haldex system.

Thanks - Freddie17, Arctic2 & Alteredtech

Once I've replaced the gen 4 CM with the original gen 3 CM, will post back to the forum.

 

[coltron1]

Update

I'm part way thru swapping diff control modules around...and was thinking:-

As 0136 code may be related to (Can Bus) poor wiring between haldex and ECM, I've looked at easier ways to identify any continuity issues.

Apparently an ohms test on the wiring between ECM & diff CM may be performed (with a multi meter)

( if I understand correctly) Pins 7 & 8 on loom Haldex plug - should have a resistance of 60 ohm, (NB: with battery disconnected)

Freel2.com - View topic - CAN Bus Testing

www.freel2.com

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/testing-haldex-controller-off-the-car.1874187/

The threads above give some information on testing, (might help rule things out)

 

[coltron1]

I've gone with TTforum's Haldex Loom testing protocols (and jumped straight to the CANBUS checks)

The picture below is a copy of the first CAN line checks to do, before the pin 8 to pin 7 check..

With my meter, the resistance check values seem to be :-

Pin 7 (CAN Low) to pin 2 (Gnd) 980ohm
Pin 8 (CAN High) to pin 2 (Gnd) ....Appears open circuit

Pin 7 (CAN Low) to pin 1 (+12v) 980ohm
Pin 8 (CAN High) to pin 1 (+12v) ....Appears open circuit

Current interpretation of the results is (possibly) bad or broken "CAN H", wire/connection somewhere between the diff CM plug and the main "CAN H" Highway.

Thinking i could do a similar test on another pieces of equipment, the car can talk too , e.g. ABS to compare results?

Though the picture below from freelander 2 service manual suggest, the CAN wiring from Diff module to "Central junction box P101" forms the back bone of the CAN network?

Before checking another working module for CAN bus values, I'l have a look at wiring loom, around the diff area first, then attempt to trace back from there.

 

[coltron1]

May have found the culprit..

working back from diff module connector, probably circa 400mm up the cable

Situated directly above the haldex, the cable disappears over the rear sub-frame

Access is tight, so might try removing some cable ties then withdraw the whole harness back into the car ( boot area)

to verify the true extent of the damage..if that's possible?

Will keep everyone posted

 

[Arctic2]

May have found the culprit..

working back from diff module connector, probably circa 400mm up the cable

View attachment 334722 View attachment 334721

Situated directly above the haldex, the cable disappears over the rear sub-frame

Access is tight, so might try removing some cable ties then withdraw the whole harness back into the car ( boot area)

to verify the true extent of the damage..if that's possible?

Will keep everyone posted

That is a well known area to keep an eye due to the loom rubbing/chaffing i would say you have found your problem.