Engine Oil

[Kevrob]

Hi Everyone, I haven't been on here for along time. Just a quick question what spec of oil goes in a td5. Picking my new one up on Saturday. Thanks

 

[neilly]

Hi Everyone, I haven't been on here for along time. Just a quick question what spec of oil goes in a td5. Picking my new one up on Saturday. Thanks

Hi and welcome to the Looneyzone.

This question was asked about a month ago....blimey was that a long thread. Might be worth a search for it.

One thing I will say is,

Download the Rave workshop manual.
Find a friend , or make one that has a good working diagnostics unit for the D2.
Make sure you have your EKA code.

Cheers

 

[sierrafery]

To cut a long story short, i recommend you this based on it's price and specs: https://www.smithandallan.com/produ...-unelite-m-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-5w-40-/ or any other which has that magic description "Suitable for VW diesel pump injector engines". cos you'll not find any other engine to be more like the Td5.... i wish i find such oil locally

 

[Kevrob]

Thanks for the info, will have a look for the thread. Going to buy my own diagnostic unit.
Moving from a D1 300 tdi to D2 td5 hopefully it will be as good as the D1 has been over the last 7 yrs.
Cheers

 

[Kevrob]

To cut a long story short, i recommend you this based on it's price and specs: https://www.smithandallan.com/produ...-unelite-m-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-5w-40-/ or any other which has that magic description "Suitable for VW diesel pump injector engines". cos you'll not find any other engine to be more like the Td5.

Cheers for that will have a look

 

[Discodevon]

Hi I would recommend avoiding the low ash oils for the use in td5

 

[Kevrob]

Thanks for that

 

[lynall]

I ran my td5 on the same oil as the trucks at work 10/40 or 15/40 mineral, cant remember which, but did 50k with zero engine issues.

 

[meego]

Ran mine on 10/40 semi for nearly 8yrs now. Not a cough, hic-up or fart, and leak free.

 

[DanClarke]

Ran mine on 10/40 semi for nearly 8yrs now. Not a cough, hic-up or fart, and leak free.

Absolutely sure there is some oil in it?
I was told that the absence of filthy oily patches on the driveway usually means a Landrover is devoid of lubricant.

 

[meego]

Absolutely sure there is some oil in it?
I was told that the absence of filthy oily patches on the driveway usually means a Landrover is devoid of lubricant.

That's my 200tdi your thinking of

 

[lynall]

To be fair if a land rover is leaking its due to one of two things
1, they are lazy twonks who cant be bothered to fix it (the majority)
2, they have tried multiple times to fix it and have given up! (the minority)

 

[Mr S1]

To be fair if a land rover is leaking its due to one of two things
1, they are lazy twonks who cant be bothered to fix it (the majority)
2, they have tried multiple times to fix it and have given up! (the minority)

Unless it's a Defender transfer box....

 

[brian47]

Much has been written here on the forum about the viscosity of oils which should be used in what engines, especially the Td5 for some reason. Land Rover don't actually specify a viscosity but they do recommend a range of oils suitable for use at the expected range of temperatures where the vehicle is to be used.
I don't think that I've seen a LR recommendation regarding mineral, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic oil. For the record, I use 5W/30 fully synthetic oil.

This is from the Discovery 2 Owner's Handbook:-

Engine oil - Diesel engines
Use a 5W/30, 5W/40, 5W/50 or 10W/40 oil meeting specification ACEA: A1 and B1, and having a viscosity band recommended for the temperature range of your locality.
NOTE: ACEA B2 oils are also suitable.

 

[Discodevon]

Shell helix Ultra I 5w40... Used this at the weekend and my engine has never ran so nice

 

[sierrafery]

I ran my td5 on the same oil as the trucks at work 10/40 or 15/40 mineral, cant remember which, but did 50k with, zero engine issues.

so if the engine didnt fail in 50K miles it's ok even with sunflower oil..... no worries, it will fail in the next 50\k being bastardised like that....i hope i'm wrong and then i'll apologise.... we'll speak again after that, you can just keep humiliating your engine with the wrong spec oil though... each for it's own

 

[NFav]

Personally I would not put any mineral oil into a turbo'd engine whether its petrol or diesel.
My preference in turbo engines is a full synthetic. A turbocharger doesn't have any bearings on the turbine shaft,
it relies on a film of oil to lubricate and prevent wear. Any breakdown in the lubricating oil will cause rapid wear on the turbine housing, this will then allow more oil to escape through the turbo and allow the turbine to move around excessively. The turbo is very hostile environment for oil to work, very very hot and very high speeds - several tens of thousands of RPM. The heat alone can cause lower quality oils to break down and also 'burn' or 'cook' the oil, when this happens you can get tiny lumps of carbon in the oil.
The better the quality of oil the longer your turbo is likely to last.
Many folks can remember the Fords etc. of the 1980's with rattling hydraulic tappets. this was down to the carbonising up
of the tappets due to mineral oil 'sludging'. Good quality full synthetic oils is why we don't have this problem now.
So imagine that sludge staring to build up in your turbocharger.

I have a 60 year old Standard 10, I put mineral oil in that. Everything else has full synthetic oil in it.

 

[lynall]

Much has been written here on the forum about the viscosity of oils which should be used in what engines, especially the Td5 for some reason. Land Rover don't actually specify a viscosity but they do recommend a range of oils suitable for use at the expected range of temperatures where the vehicle is to be used.
I don't think that I've seen a LR recommendation regarding mineral, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic oil. For the record, I use 5W/30 fully synthetic oil.

This is from the Discovery 2 Owner's Handbook:-

Engine oil - Diesel engines
Use a 5W/30, 5W/40, 5W/50 or 10W/40 oil meeting specification ACEA: A1 and B1, and having a viscosity band recommended for the temperature range of your locality.
NOTE: ACEA B2 oils are also suitable.
View attachment 135059

I dont think A1 exists anymore its now A5 which is totally logical!

 

[lynall]

so if the engine didnt fail in 50K miles it's ok even with sunflower oil..... no worries, it will fail in the next 50\k being bastardised like that....i hope i'm wrong and then i'll apologise.... we'll speak again after that, you can just keep humiliating your engine with the wrong spec oil though... each for it's own

Last time I checked it was still on the road many years after I sold it with serious miles on the clock.

 

[lynall]

Personally I would not put any mineral oil into a turbo'd engine whether its petrol or diesel.
My preference in turbo engines is a full synthetic. A turbocharger doesn't have any bearings on the turbine shaft,
it relies on a film of oil to lubricate and prevent wear. Any breakdown in the lubricating oil will cause rapid wear on the turbine housing, this will then allow more oil to escape through the turbo and allow the turbine to move around excessively. The turbo is very hostile environment for oil to work, very very hot and very high speeds - several tens of thousands of RPM. The heat alone can cause lower quality oils to break down and also 'burn' or 'cook' the oil, when this happens you can get tiny lumps of carbon in the oil.
The better the quality of oil the longer your turbo is likely to last.
Many folks can remember the Fords etc. of the 1980's with rattling hydraulic tappets. this was down to the carbonising up
of the tappets due to mineral oil 'sludging'. Good quality full synthetic oils is why we don't have this problem now.
So imagine that sludge staring to build up in your turbocharger.

I have a 60 year old Standard 10, I put mineral oil in that. Everything else has full synthetic oil in it.

Sludging isnt going to be an issue these days as the oils are much better at keeping the internals clean.
i take off plenty of rocker covers and sumps at work and you just dont see sludge at all.