Somethings Not Right!?

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Hang on I've done it again, Rover Metro Sport. Sure that was a K-series!? Well that was the wifes car, but I still bought it so it counts!
 
Yeah I bet - I was lucky when i did the clutch, the rain held off. How many hours do you reckon it has taken to do so far? Some details about your problems with the oil rail would be good as well.
 
You've got to give credit to a bloke who is prepared to roll up his sleeves and get stuck in, after all isn't that what most LR owners do, be it to weld a chassis, change a gearbox, fill a dent, change filters etc.

If he encounters probs, he seems to be a type to say so and fix that too.

OK so he has a engine that most Hippo owners wouldnt touch and a motor that some 'purist' LR owners wouldnt want. Its his choice and that doesn't warrant some of the catty comments being made. However honest advice both for and against ways to rebuild an engine is always welcome.

I for one will be interested to see how this project turns out as I reckon K series owners will get some useful info by the end of it.
 
Hard to guage, fitted in the odd night after work just to clean parts and drive down, Saturday wasted day, Sunday was good, overall I'd say around 12 hours but that's with delays and the weather. If I'm honest thought the weekend would have been enough, perhaps that was foolish....

I've no doubt that had the weather been better, I knew more about engines, I knew how the engine guard came off, my pressure washer never packed up, I could have done it in the same time haha.

The only thing that's suprised me so far is the sump, once it's off super fast to clean up (used whiteboard cleaner, found it to work the best) removing the old rail is a one minute job and a good blast down with the pressure washer. Well heat the sump paste as it spreads much better and get the sump plate back on before it dries. If it wasn't for the brace issue the sump would be 15/20 minute job.

I'm sure people can get this all done in a weekend, but it's going OK for the likes of me, if you could pick when you have problems I'd go for the summer everytime!
 
I hope that comment wasnt addressed to me, Skynet?
If you think that posting the following is "catty" you aint seen nothing.

The Mad Hat Man said:
Why do you think that in almost every engine overhaul section of the Rave, It states quite categorically "CAUTION: Removal of pistons will necessitate removal and re-sealing of cylinder liners."
Click to expand...
If he wishes to ignore that info, then good luck to him. I have no axe to grind. But he has accepted advice from doubtfull family sources over and above what LR and knowledgeable peeps on here have said.
Flying in the face of good advice is not the wisest choice, but sometimes it works. I will reserve judgement untill the motor is back on the road and has 500 miles under its belt.
 
Skynet

Cheers for that, I'm all emotional now! haha

If I could have found a TD4 for decent miles, spec and price I would have bought it, despite it being a desiel.... I wasn't put off by it having a K, I've had loads of cars with a K series and I'm happy with them. 48K on clock it was due for HGF, but if your gonna do the job, get "all" the mod parts not just some of them "all of them" who you do it right who knows if and when.

In general K repair costs are cheaper than TD4. And VCU issues for all.

I know a lot of Hippo owners hate the K, bad press and all that, it's just the same as Discotec and Def-enders say about "all" Hippo's.
 
Skynet said:
You've got to give credit to a bloke who is prepared to roll up his sleeves and get stuck in, after all isn't that what most LR owners do.....
Click to expand...

Hi Skynet ... I couldn't agree more, just about every Land Rover is a major mechanical learning experience, sometimes you take the wrong advice and screw it up but that's what it is about, as you get experience you can judge what advice to take ... the good thing to come of this will be if anguslives does a detailed 'post' about summarising , what he did , what went right, what went wrong etc, as you say other K engine owners can avoid the pitfalls then.

keep it up ....
 
Mad Hat

I'm not shunting any good advice, and I did check the seals on the liners even tho they didn't move, better to be safe than sorry.

Some of the advice on here does take you off in directions not needed, but overall it's a good forum and some useful tips to be had.

As for the family comment please don't go there, he's worked on and built more cars than Nissan, he looks like Greengrass from Heatbeat but knows more about engines than we ever will. Cranking the engine and using a braced is only to reduce more work, his option on this is if a wet liner had failed and you don't crank how would you know until you'd put it all back together and she'd run like crap, then you've got to take it all apart again. I'm not going to argue with a man who does motors all over the world for a living, just like you wouldn't tell me how to fix and PC.
 
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I would if I thought yu was doing it wrong :rolleyes:

as i said before - its yo money - its yo risk - yu will only find out if yu made a mistake if yu loose water after the rebuild. I genuinely hope you are correct, because if you are wrong - its a hell of a lot of work to have to do again.
 
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In any profession there is normally more than one way to do a job, the same can be said for mine, why click 15 buttons when 3 will do the job, unless you want to look more important than what you actually are, I know people like that and I aint one.

Everyone here has a view, and thats great, if it goes wrong I will hold my hand up and tell you all, how many people commenting on this thread actually own a K and have worked on it? The majority answer is going to be "we wouldn't have one" again thats great, its your choice, Hat Man have you ever done any work on a K series?? A simple Yes or No will do...:):)
 
Hi I dont know why I haven't followed this thread.
I started to read the op ,just now.First thing that popped into mind was core/frost plugs at the rear of the engine block.

May be you have sorted it out already,or ruled them out.

I could not be arsed to read through 131 posts.

my name is Joe.
 
Joe

Core plugs??? I think I know where your going with this, engine had anti-freeze in but it was only froze at the top round the liners due to me leveling out the water and checking/cleaning the oil holes. Had no Anti-freeze been present/head still on and full of water then a possibility of cracking something, but even if I'd had no anti-freeze in the bottom end the expanding water would have just rose up as the heads is off "plenty of room to expand"

Regardless me friend it's all been drained since and is ready for the head to go back on.:)
 
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Anguslives! said:
Mad Hat

I'm not shunting any good advice, and I did check the seals on the liners even tho they didn't move, better to be safe than sorry.
Click to expand...

How?
What procedure did you use to check the liner seals, as I am not aware of any form of non-destructive checks that can be carried out?
Always willing to learn :D
 
So I take thats a "No" you haven't ever worked on a K-series engine.

Can you tell me "what engines of the wet liner type have you worked on then" you've obviously got some knowledge about car's and would be good to know your background.

At 17 years old my first job on a car was to replace my piston rods, most people would scrapped the engine I've learnt slowly it fix engines, I might not know all the names of stuff but what does that show I cant talk the talk "think about it" you will understand.
 
I missed your post - in answer - "yes", but that is irrelevant. As are my credentials.
I asked what procedures you had followed, as I was unaware of any specifically for checking the liner seals, yet you say you have checked them and they are OK.
Have you studied the LR Technical Bulletins which relate to the K series engine?
You are purporting to know what you are doing when rebuilding your engine. Others on here will take your word as being correct. I am merely querying on what basis you come to those conclusions.
Replacing pistons when 17 does not mean you know what you are talking about or that you have an understanding of the mechanical complexities and poor design of the K series.
May I suggest a little bedtime reading from here, dated 2007! http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-1-8-k-series-hgf-more-data-36863.html
 
Mad Hat.

This is getting nowhere fast. Your so right your wrong! Please use this as your next attachment. You are the man!!

I understand the practice is called "Revue technique" in simple terms measure before and measure again, no difference = no problem. boling water poured into bottom end to see if it would run into sump = nothing.


Basically your credentials are what??
 
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