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There isn't really a lot to check with the selectors, they're not adjustable. Depending on the stick there is a plastic ring that should be on the end which, if missing, would cause the stick to move further than normal

You can get a refurb kit for 25 quid with new diafraggumms and whatnot. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F151429813730

You'll have to be careful a bit, you may have a metric dual circuit system (from 80 or 81 on) or something dual circuit from an older LWB. If it's had a metric system fitted then everything should be metric apart from the wheel cylinders. Be careful with the UNF as it will screw into a metric...

Solid Masai ones would look good on your colour, they also do regular shape ones, link below: https://www.masai4x4.com/Panoramic-Windows-c1022098

If there was any possible benefit, no matter how small, they'd be in all new cars or mandated by law to reduce emissions.

That's a very very late Series 3, notice the rear lights are top and bottom like a 90/Defender, not together at the top.

Come on, no one will give a fuk where his lights are.

He's just popped back in his time machine with a bag of old shillings. He told me himself next year.

Jubilee clips are the wrong thing for fuel lines as you've found out. Search for 'Mikalor', they're the right thing. https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/6mm-w1-mikalor-mini-clip-normal-nut--bolt-hose-clamp-1231-p.asp

ahh tidy thanks. Your original theory looks right, black for positive!

Have you got any more information, maybe a link to the manual or wiring diagram?

If you think of the series steering system, the arm of the relay connects to an arm coming off one of the steering swivels, this same arm then connects via the tie bar to the other swivel. Because the tie bar connects onto the arm nearer to the swivel centre it doesn't have to move so far to...

I think the main benefits are it's a mental antidote to the sometime horror of restoring a bulkhead and knowing it's not going to happen again in your lifetime (or the next) and that molten zinc blasting through all the cavities and hollow sections is something that can't be got to with blasting...

Was the drive flange/diff turning easily after the work was done? I know it's hard to tell as you'd prob need to pull the driveshafts to check.

Series 2/3 and defender bulkheads are the same width, and the doors are the same profile so the tub width should be the same. Actually I fitted a defender roll hoop to my series and that lined up perfectly so yes they are the same width. Not sure if there are any construction differences...

Forgetting the chassis measurements, how does it measure from the rear wheel centres to the front ones?

I see the copyist JMC is a joint venture with Ford, ironic as so was the original, being FL2 based, a Ford platform and engine.

cartwheels

The 5 bearing engine started transitioning to metric fittings, just be aware of that. In particular, the heater tap/takeoff at the front of the head could well be metric, it is on mine. Try and make sure it has one as they're hard to find. Various other bolts, studs and whatnot could also be...

Yes, worth a good bit, into 3 figures if it's what someone needs for their s1.