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Using a multimeter to check battery voltage with ignition off, then on, then running would be a good start Nice place Torridon called in there doing the NC500

This was it , and I posted about it, thought I bought it with the sides but I must have cut and welded reading this back https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-door-bottom-repair.338756/

Been a mammoth project for you but you can see the finish line, I did my rear door with a new bottom repair piece which came up the sides and a new skin but it seems to dent easily can’t have been the proper birmabright spec.

Lookin very nice indeed, can’t me much more to do?

Ouch, Sod’s Law! makes me recall when I was a mechanical apprentice many years ago had a spell in the foundry when they cast large steel stem turbine casings the header tank made of resinous sand gave way with white hot metal falling from a height and splashing everywhere, don’t want any of...

These were my readings and a local company on my 2286 diesel , the wear was not bad but I went for a rebore anyway 2 years ago with pistons off eBay The rebore was £249;+vat and pistons just under £100 Have you checked the piston ring end gaps

Front or back axle ? To confirm, you want length between outer edge of both flanges And the radius from main tube centre to the outer flange And to what degree of accuracy is acceptable

Glad you’re sorted, messing about with eyes not good, 3-4 weeks ago I was derusting a piece of steel to make a bracket for my vacuum bottle , I used brick acid (concentrated hydrocloric acid) , I wore my safety specs, cleaned up perfect in 2 hours ,… but left the ice cream container half full of...

Haha yes landies like that ,one job turns into three! Was going to mention use of a cylindrical guide , so drill fits snugly down hole and keeps drill central, wonder if there was a fault in the stud caused a weakness to make it shear easier. The end will likely be uneven and tend to make the...

Looks like you will need to drill it and use a screw extractor , as you haven’t torqued it up, this will help but surprised you’ve snapped it , did you buy genuine or cheapie version At least you chose an appropriate username 😉

Courtesy of Blackburn

No need for apologies, direct is fine, just could not work out where you meant, thanks for pic but looks. Different to mine are you talking about a rear safari door

Can you please use a parts diagram or take a photo of what part you mean on rear door

Have you got an overdrive , loose washer on gearstick can rattle like that on mine

Have you got a low level fuel warning light and the two wires to connect to a sender with the two terminals if so best option buy a new sender then all works as it should

Black wil be earth Have you read these https://www.landyzone.co.uk/search/7211712/?q=Hazard+wiring&t=post&c%5Bchild_nodes%5D=1&c%5Bnodes%5D%5B0%5D=6&o=relevance

You need the steel washer and the copper crush washer Do you know where the leak is coming from

Welcome , easy to work on , any pics

Welcome, sounds like a busman’s holiday, have you seen the members projects forum

Have you got one of these https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/cwk-47y-pre-production-110-1982.287858/