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Ah, yes, that would make the diagnostic text tie up with the symptom. Maybe what I did, swapping from bags to coils and back again actually forces a hard reset of the controller and re-establishes the link to the ECU. If anyone has the source code for the SLABS controller, I'd be happy to go...

No sign of any staining or dampness in there and we've had no rain here for months now. I couldn't see a connection either. Still off after 10 miles today.

Well, I have cleared the warning light though I have to say, it's not clear how! I checked all the switches and gear sensors on the "Live Data" display - all fine - and then looked for a way to tell it that it was a manual gearbox, not auto. No such option appeared and the light was still on...

Thank you, @sierrafery, I don't have RAVE but I'm sure I can get it. Yes, it was from the SLABS ECU. I wonder if it thinks it's got an automatic gearbox and that's what's confusing it - not sure if that's a setting in SLABS but I could check. I guess the HDC function drives the brakes through a...

2003 Discovery 2 Adventurer TD5 manual. A small problem has come up which I can't find enough information to sort by myself so I thought I'd ask you. The HDC amber warning light is on all the time. All three "amigos" come on with ignition, go off after a few seconds and the the HDC comes back...

So I've finally found a replacement - a very healthy TD5 Adventurer (thank you, Bill of Fred's Cars) in Wimbledon green. Most of it seems to work and though it's nothing like the spec of the dead ES, it feels more normal. No ACE but stiffer suspension from the commercial so still not too much...

Just a single wire as I recall. The connector is a white plastic round unit about 4cm long and 1cm diameter. Sorry I can't remember more and my (dead) D2 has a different fuse box layout.

There is a hidden connector that I once had similar trouble from on an early D2 (1999 D2 TD5). It's a single inline plug and socket which was simply not connecting cleanly and is related to the wiper motors. As I recall it's underneath the fuse box (?) near the passenger side bonnet hinge...

I am sad to dispose of this one but the sheer cost and time involved in restoring it is beyond what I can commit to. It will need these items, at least: ECU BCM ACE CU SLABS CU Radio, CD changer A/C controller Sunroof controller ? Full set of bulbs And possibly motors for seats, windows...

Yes, same again. Glutton for punishment? Actually, I can't think of anything I'd prefer !

So, MOSFETs back in, ECU re-assembled, re-connected and slipped back into place (drop of black oil in the red connector, ho hum). Fingers crossed, ignition on, crank... BANG, smoke, MOSFETs gone again. So i'm giving up, donating the landie to a local TD5 owner who can use it to keep his alive...

So I've pulled out the 150A fusible link to the alternator (fat lot of good that did !) and now the wipers have stopped working (ever) but the engine will crank. I've pulled out the connector to the ACE control unit under the glovebox and now F29 doesn't blow as soon as the ignition key is...

Yes, all test fine. All the ones I've found, anyway. All in the engine bay fuse box ????

OK, Earth points - I can work round those. Engine bay first and then new the SLABS/BCU controllers, I guess. I've got the RAVE circuit diagrams and good tools so I can be quite systematic about it. Thank you!

Last weekend we attempted to go camping in our lovely D2 TD5 ES but we had to be rescued from the M1 by the AA and relayed back to Lymington. Complete electrical failure. Almost nothing works. It turns out that the alternator had failed, boiled the battery dry and then popped everything. I've...

Thanks, everyone. I think then there are no galvanised chassis available for the disco 2 and the genuine LR one is too expensive to contemplate. So, plating and protecting is the only way... Oh, well.

Just had the clutch replaced in my 2003 Disco 2 commercial and the garage showed me the state of the chassis. Basically, it's riddled with holes and much of the surface is flaking off in large chunks. This van lived most of its life in Scotland so I guess it's a consequence of the salty roads...

I take it that every LR dealer and specialist stocks tubes of "No More Rattle" in 6 or 12 packs !

Spot on. Just rattling around, unattached. Any way to get it back on without dismantling the prop?

Mud shield sounds promising. I'll take a look. Thanks.