Search results

Wouldnt issues with the seals inside the master show as fluid loss though? Or not because it's still staying within it. I'll check the vacuum again today

Any way I can test it? With the vacuum hose off the servo I'm still getting a good vacuum (as far as I can tell)

I replaced the servo on my motor before the rebuild and the brakes were brilliant, much much better than they'd ever been. During the rebuild I replaced all of the brake lines and for a bit the brakes were still great but over the last few weeks I've no started getting intermittent problems with...

I managed to sort it out just enough by ratchet strapping the left hand side in a bit then space out the striker. The squint tub is causing some slight alignment issues at the front but there's not a huge amount I can do about that, I've got the door gaps not too bad but I may need to look at...

This thread still going? God it's been a while.

So now that I've sorted the bulkhead as much as I can I've found that I've now got other issues. Due to the high winds my rear tub was (while sitting vertical) caught by the wind and seems to have been twisted. All was going well up to today when I've got the rear door back on and realised that...

It did, needed the footwell brackets redrilled so it's as good as it'll get. And aye I'm all good thank you, got a 2 year old son keeping me on my toes but you'll be pleased to know he loves land rovers and working on his cars.

Aye I've watched all his videos and they were of some help but I managed to (mostl I got it sorted by redrilling the footwell brackets. I'm pretty sure it's because I've got a Shielder bulkhead as they don't get the greatest reputation. The chassis is Richards and the footwell to chassis...

Aye I've watched all his videos and they were of some help but I managed to (mostly) get it sorted

My driveway is anything but level...

I've read up on absolutely everything I can regarding it but so far had no joy in finding a solution. I need to know if the bulkhead or tub is too low or vice versa and see if that's maybe causing part of the issue

The distance between the tub and the bulkhead at the bottom is spot on at about 882mm. The top however is too far too the rear so I need to tilt it forwards. I've looked off the bulkhead outrigger bolts, footwell to chassis bolts, and all the steering UJs but when I ratchet strap in forwards to...

No amount of searching is getting me an answer to this please. Is anyone able to advise on a good way to align the bulkhead? I'm most of the way through a rebuild and I can't for the life of me tilt the bulkhead far enough forward to get the distance from the tub correct. As soon as I tighten...

Mate that's scrap. I had 2 in similar condition that I couldn't shift before I ended up taking them to the dump. It's a lot of work to get that back to useable condition and even then it's probably rusted to hell inside.

Why aren't people reading the original post? He said the seat runners, not the reclining handle. Just pull the seat forward enough so that the front of the runners aren't poking out

Some older latch mechanisms don't have the hole to remove the lock barrel. If you can't find any other way then you'll have to drill it out I'm afraid

Check the splines on the spindle and the arm are still in good condition, you'll probably find one or the other is worn. Don't loctite it as you'll find if you ever need to change the arm or spindle at any point you ain't getting it back off easily. They're not expensive to replace if need be

Can't remember the manufacturer but these are great. I remember I looked them up ages ago and they were almost 100 quid to buy new. As you can see I've had them a while but they're a good set of crimps

I've got a very good crimping tool that I acquired from the army and I use it exclusively for any electrical needs. Its not like the cheap ones where it gives you one flat crimp. I'll put up a pic when I'm home. Can probably still buy them but they're not cheap

They're pretty basic and as long as the wires are still properly attached to the bullets they'll be fine to use. The bullets just push into the metal sleeving inside. A wee smear of some conductive grease before you pop them in would help as they've got a bad tendency of being difficult to pull...