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Purchase a rubber/plastic bung or bungs to suit if u have more holes, and with some degreaser and brush loosen it up and then use a hose or power washer. Just standard stuff 😊

How exact do you want to be ? I do know the location of the main points as they are obvious enough within the engine bay and foot wells. 😊

Oh a link showing a five cylinder head gasket, As I don’t know anything about diesel or TD5s or any other head gaskets, so I can’t help.😊

Possibly an iffy earth connection, maybe in the engine bay or the one in each of the front foot wells.

Soldering crimp connectors is a bad idea. A soldered connection is rigid, so any movement of the wire will cause it to harden at the connection, eventually causing it to break. The crimp will move some so there is not a single stress point. Also there can be issues using heat at the point of a...

It is a symptom of a faulty idle control valve (stuck or sticking)… its another fragile item the V8 has I believe, so, follow the instructions if you wish to remove it. The idle speed is over 1000 RPM + when first starting from cold but should settle down with in 10 seconds, my disco drops...

The ABS was fitted/option for the 300 series D, so as the OP has done his research and given a part number confirmed in the attached link we can assume that their post relates to the 200 series.

U have the correct part number. 😊 The shims depending on their thickness, are 751743 or 44 or 45 or 46.

True, but a slipped liner makes a tapping sound as it reaches top or bottom or both ends of the cylinder, I did see a uTube vid once which recorded the sound and theres no mistaking it. It appeared to be common with V8 engines overheating by running on barbecue gas. As for your head gasket...

So the outlet on the inlet manifold supplying coolant to the plenum water jacket assembly must be now blanked off then. The three hose connectors involved are steal therefore can corrode the same way as core plugs can and do when the incorrect coolant mixture is used in an alloy engine. I...

I’m only going by your photos as I’ve never been there, so it appears that the coil is just a a sliding fit over the key barrel, without any such thing as plastic lugs, that always snap, to retain it, so that leaves the steering column cowl to retain it when it is fitted maybe, or some DIY with...

As you say “Have changed the MFU with a unit that has been tested” I take it all the other circuits controlled by the MFU were ok when the diagnostic test was done. As the heated rear screen relay is also switched by the MFU and which requires the engine running when checking the rear heated...

Not, if as the OPs states in his first post they have a automatic 300Tdi. Anyway, theres a lot easier way, without stripping the dash down to access the spider, and then still retaining the vehicles immobiliser security.😊

Water cooling ? Better to post a photo of what you have. There should be two hoses, flow & return as shown below which is permanent what ever the temperature is, if they leak then tighten the hose clips or replace the rubber hose simple.

Simples first, so remove the crankcase breather (flame trap) and its hose to the plenum chamber and soak in petrol to clean it, then refit, If you still have an issue carefully remove the throttle control valve and clean and replace and then check the base idle which was set in the factory...

As is stated, choke control. It’s even shown in the disco parts & workshop manual, which are a copies of both the RRc manuals, so for some markets the automatic choke control wasn’t acceptable perhaps Also the bimetal assembly appears to alter the level of a jet so part of the carbs cold...

So if you have a 3.5 disco between 1989-1990 years, both the carburettors had a choke that was operated by a bimetal assembly CUD2399L as shown as no.16 in the drawing below so not cable operated. Later in 1990 the 3.5s were fuel injection until the 3.9 arrived.

The lack of vacuum to the brake servo possibly, so check pipe from the servo to where ever the vac connection is on the D2V8. There will be a filter/restrictor as part of the connection at the servo, and if like the D1V8 there is also one at the engine vac connection, which is on the plenum...

My everyday fob failed with the “close to the ignition switch” function after about 18 years, so out came the nearly new reserve fob which is in a fully functional used now, the original fob is now the ‘just in case’ reserve and functional using the unlock button now. Being close to the...

It’s called‘ passive immobilising’ so they all do that, no need to lock and unlock just pressing the unlock button on the fob will remobilise the engine and if working correctly the placing the fob close to the ignition switch. You will get an indication that the fobs battery is failing, and...