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Yes. Although it is through the LPG diagnostic, it sits at a steady 0.45v most of the time, then flicks briefly to .9v then back to 0.45v that is followed by a miss from the engine while running on petrol. Happens once every 6-7 seconds

I am pretty sure the lambda probes on my 1995 Softdash classic are dying. They seem to read .45v with very little change. The car itself does not have a steady idle, and when on gas the mixture control just goes up and up till it stalls. I have a pair of three wire sensors, but have read...

I found it, it was actually part of the LPG, I assume it was the switched live feed, as the fuse that had failed was the one for the engine ECU.. but I posted before thinking mostly as this late RRC often matches nothing in RAVE! (It seems half P38a!)

While looking at a fault on my LPG I noticed that there was a less than happy looking fuse badly spliced into the loom just under the LPG vaporizer on the nearside front inner wing. As neither side of it was looking useful I decided to take it out and return the wiring to standard.. however I...

I have made progress on this, code 2-3 was indeed being caused by the broken wires on the brake fluid reservoir cap and that has now been cleared. However it then showed code 2-6 and I have now fitted a new brake light switch (I tested the old one and two sets of contacts showed permanently...

Yes, it is WABCO C in a very very late RRC with ABS and Traction control, in fact it's more like a p38a that looks like an RRC in many ways! but I have just noticed two of the three wires on the low brake fluid level switch have come adrift and that the ABS pressure sensor switch ion the P38a is...

Bump.. has no one solved this? I have found numerous dead end threads and the car is due for an MOT

Hi, my Vogue SE has an ABS/TC fault, the blink code comes back with code 2-3 which apparently does not exist! However working with the assumption that its the same as the early P38 ABS system this would point to the pressure switch, so I acquired a P38 ABS pump and took the pressure switch from...

As it all back together now, would it be beneficial taking the oil cooler pipe off the top of the radiator and syringing oil down that? The filter was filled with oil. Whats odd is I had the old oil pump off a few times and that seemed to prime OK despite having gears that looked like they had...

I'm having problems with my RRC softdash 4.6 conversion. I had it running but it was taking time fro the oil pressure light to do out, on investigating found that the oil pump was worn (it was the original from the RRCs 3.9). So a much less worn pump was sourced. While I fitted this I also...

Yes, I am aware of the meaning, however prior to this the car also had P0101 code and a whole host of other O2 sensor codes.im wondering as the MAF was failing if it pushed the long fuel trims so far out that until they adjust to the new sensor it will log these. I should really dig out the auto...

I have an issue with my V8, it had become an utter dog to drive, stalling at junctions all the time. I changed the plugs and they were all black I also changed the MAF, the latter had improved it no end, but it’s still missing a bit at idle, so I pulled the codes again, and got P0130 ‘pending’...

I have done a few bits since.. Replace the oil pump rotors with those from the 4.6 oil pump, as on inspection they really were not well... the 4.6 rotors were far better. I also took a look at the big ends, these were looking a bit worn, but not bad, so I have replaced those as it was apart. Now...

I had to use the sump, oil pickup, front cover, cam and distributor from the 3.9. The oil is 20w50 and no I didn't use new spring washers.. The original oil pump was kept as this is the serpentine engine with a distributor and it seem the parts for that oil pump are a bit thin on the ground...

Yes.. conrod no longer attached to piston.. The 4.6 is now in, managed to do it with out taking the aircon apart or removing the transmission lines. It even runs! however seems to take a while after starting to extinguish the oil pressure light if its been stood from more than an hour or so...

I have finally got the 4.6 running in the RRC, actually it has not been that hard so far.. but I have some irritations. On startup cold it takes a few seconds for the oil light to go out. This I find a little odd as it then takes 12 seconds after shutdown for it to come back on. If restarted...

Actually no I don't, it's on LPG which is a standalone system. I'm more interested in which mechanical bits fit the 4.6 has its drive plate still on, do I need to swap it over or can I just use the one that is on it?. The RRC is such a late one it has the 10 bolt heads (one of the final 1000)...

The 3.9 in my Soft Dash range rover classic has utterly destroyed the block, by that I mean 2 large holes on each side and the last section of the cam shaft is in the sump (7 and 8) so its total scrap.. I have in my garage a 4.6 turner short block with very few miles on it. Apart from the heads...

The 3.9 block is scrap, looks like the cause was a broken con rod, there's a chunk taken out of the bottom of both bores you can see when you look down the area where the missing section of cam should have been. Now I have the water pump off and the front cover I am pretty sure it can be lifted...

Just filled both the effected inlet tracts with antifreeze, no leaks, so I think at least the two inlet valves are fine. My 4.6 is just a short block, and is from a distributor less engine. I assume this will need a cam and the front cover from the original? Will the engine management cope? Can...