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Back onto this one again now. Donor car is on the ramp, warmed up and drained all fluids. Removed all failed glowplugs. One left a tip in the engine. Will add how I got that out in the glowplug thread. All disconnections made on top and all bolts sprayed with penetrative oil underneath ready...

OK. Might have been worth mentioning your location for best results !!

Where abouts are you?? Details not on your profile. What is wrong with engine?? As above, delete your phone number and place ad in wanted.

Good report 10/10 for the TD4 Sport Auto. Never missed a beat. 1650 miles. Overall average 34.6 mpg. That included a week on Mull in 3rd and 4th gear. Motorway runs averaged 36.5 mpg at a steady 70mph over 450 miles. Took a bag of spares, lp fuel pump, aux belt, tools etc but nothing required...

If you JUST want to open tailgate window and, as above, don't want any other functions to work, wiper, washer, glass to drop to allow door to open, window calibration for correct operation, then simply apply 12 v to pins 3 and 6 of the window motor and reverse the polarity to close it again...

it is possible that the device could be over boosting the engine and it will limit to prevent damage. Depends how it works. Purely increasing fuel pressure may not be detectable but if it generates more boost to turbo then it may limit the engine and show engine light. If not, another thing to...

Cam sensor is my best guess from what I read. Doesn't always generate a fault code so beware. Freezer test is easy and worthwhile.

No the 'in gear' bit is not correct. The four wheels are connected together by differentials IRD and propshaft. The gearbox connects the engine to the whole lot. One wheel up passes all the torque through the rear diff then the VCU and ends with a stop as the front wheels are on the ground...

Does the engine run? As above, the disc by your finger is loose to turn. It acts as a spacer to allow clamp to pull tight. If they are wet when removed they may be stuck open or some other reason for overfuelling but let us know if it runs first and why removing them.

Probably this... https://ebay.us/m/c2jj6U

They have contacts on the elbow bit that break. Not sure why they are made with a contact rather than a continuous strip? Someone knows. JLR ?!?!?

Sounds like the bulb holder see my post above. Swap it for other side and if that solves it then simple and cheap to replace.

Some copycats out there ! Best form of flattery !! https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/freelander-due-uk-return-electrified-4x4-jlr-design

The holders go open circuit on the rear lamps. If a new bulb doesn't fix it and you feel adventurous, swap the bulb holder from the other side and then you will know without any test equipment.

And the winner is Found the bugger too. No speed camera today.

"What is the story" anyway ! Gotta look out for Plum and the speed camera.

A better clue. This isn't a spot the differences @kernowsvenski !!! 800 miles so far !

Usually change seal when you change driveshaft as the lip goes hard and extraction of the shaft can damage it. Cheap to do while shaft is out. Don't tell us they left a leaky seal fitted with a new shaft !!??

Bit of history in this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256918578638?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tBAMRnBsT7K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=b5qQSb6hQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY