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Right I have had a breakthrough, took my door card off unplugged the connector sprayed contact cleaner, left it to dry Plugged it back in. Entered the EKA code the car opened and started first time, and now my key has resynchronized. So I have ordered the mg door latch and will fit that in...

Edit: There is also paint marks on the latch , typical of a breakers yard replacement.

I have just taken a look at the drivers door latch , now someone has definitely been in here before all the foam is taped up and ripped. The plug coming off the actuator is black but the connector is white? Has this been replaced with the wrong door actuator. Is there any other way to tell...

How do you get those disabled , is it a becm out job and have it sent away?

I think it's almost impossible to own this car without diagnostics. Otherwise they are un runnable

This type of fault is a first for me. But this is definitely a sync fault, not sure why my spare key now doesn't work either, we ended up with key code lock out error message.

We did try the key in the lock and managed to open the vehicle that got us the message engine disabled anytime we tried to start it , which provided one potential reason, the key was extremely spongy in the door lock and upon entering the EKA code it wouldn't recognise any input, that coupled...

I would if I had a nano com, literally alls i have done is have a key battery changed. Does anyone have the correct key sync procedure?

1999 4.0 Thor

Hello everyone AGAIN I am currently stuck waiting for the RAC to arrive, as I went to have my key battery changed, once changed the car would not open attempted to resync the key nothing worked. Phoned home someone brought me the second key and that wouldn't work either. EKA code wouldn't...

Maybe I worded that wrong, the temp needle gets up to the center of the gauge and stays there . Doesn't move at all

Ah so generally they won't run, I had fitted a new radiator, hoses and thermostat a few months ago , so the temp gauge doesn't move , it won't have even got up to temperature. I will get new relays to rule out any mistakes on my end. Possibly look into a new fuse box if they are even available.

Hello everyone Since I took ownership of my 1999 P38 my electric cooling fans have not once gone off even with air con or in stop start traffic. I've hooked up a separate supply off the battery to test if the fans work which both of them came on. the only visual issues I can find are both...

Just an update, the o rings were the problem I replaced them all ,left it in off-road height overnight with F44 fuse removed, hasn't dropped a millimeter. I must thank everyone for there help.

If it doesn't explode that's a win in my book.

I have a spare pressure switch that I have decided to fit out of precaution. I have depinned connectors before but does it matter which wire goes where?

I would say almost without a doubt that is my issue ,if not then it's a big part of it

Just found this, o ring must have got trapped and ripped Ive found one ripped and two more crushed.

That's sound like a plan , not to worry I asked it really nicely with a hammer and it's now off

Bollocks😭, and to make this even better , one of the threads on the air compressor mountings have stripped so now I can't get the compressor out.😅