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Work on Izzy (Now named...no guesses why) has slowed a little. Relandscaping the garden has kicked off now the weather lets us get the mini digger on ground. But small jobs tick over. The LH and RH front lighting and engine bay wiring has been picked over. The good news is the wiring diagram I...

I did think about a) using countersunk rivnuts (not really enough thickness) or b) forgetting rivnuts and revert to nut & bolt. But I decided a small gap, on a panel that cannot be described as A class or straight, as something to live with for making future disassembly easier. If it looks...

Panel beating is an art...I can knock a dent out...but there is a huge difference between the two. This vehicle will be a daily drive, so the concours look can wait for the next one. Thanks for the insight - much appreciated.

I sometimes wonder what LR designers were thinking, and the jointing methods & materials used on the front wings is a catalogue of curious decisions. The working theory is thus; by riveting, bolting and spot welding the wing it was designed as a tradesman test. Anyone who could complete all...

Alloy rivnuts turned up and have been fitted to the outer wing: And the Deutsch electrical connectors and crimp tool arrived: Which is an improvement over those awful bullet connectors fitted as standard. The RH wing is in a worse state than the left and disassembly has been designed to be...

Small steps getting things ready to paint. Rivnuts for the inner and outer wings:

Under bonnet brackets now ready for paint: And the good news continues with the inner wings found to be galvanised. A couple of rust patches but otherwise very servicable and cleaned ready to paint:

A visit to the Irn-Bru production facility this morning showed the process had worked: It looks grim but the nails have done their job: And the rusty bits now have a black finish: It does not eliminate any mechanical clean, but sorts the rust beforehand and should give the acid etch and...

So far...everything electrical except the heater fan has worked. This includes the glow plug preheat on the Iszuz. But...like a lot of vehicles approaching its 40th birthday there are a lot of "terminate in fresh air" connectors and unknown wiring. Plan is to get it back to stock and follow...

A few more hours devoted to the Landy. Some of the under bonnet bracketry as a "patina" of rust. Never tried it before so thoought I would try the electroysis method of getting rid of the metal moth. Well, no so much get rid of it but convert it to something else. A big tub with a washing...

The wings are finally off. Time for another 3D model and record of as-is: Link to the 3D model is here: 3D Model of engine bay There is a special corner of hell reserved for the person who thought bolting the outer wings on was a great idea. I have a theory that somewhere in Solihull there...

The rh wing gave up the battle and is now off. The bulkhead is still looking OK for some small repairs, a strip & galvanise and refit. The lower steering UJ was knocking and an MOT failure, but turns out it was not clamped tight enough on the steering box shaft...but thats a minor point...

I have done a good trawl of the forum...the internet...and even asked ChatGTP* and have found a low res example (as per the title) but does anyone know of a source of a wiring diagram? I have seen the lovely 110 military examples but these are likely to have some significant...

An hour spent before dinner last night saw the wayward electrical wiring examined... Its not pretty: The horn wiring seems to transit the engine bay via lh wing, cable clips in front of rad, rh wing...back into the engine bay and onto the air horn compressor. The heater fan is currently inop...

Removing the lh wing has proved...problematic. The snorkel is right in the way of the bulkhead bolts, and to remove that means the heater box is coming out. So that little project was parked until I could create a 3D record of the as-is of the engine bay. Its an aide memoire for when stuff...

With the floor up the R380 serial number is much easier to read. Its prefix is 68A with a suffix of L. Which, I think, means its a long stick originally fitted to a Defender. This may guide future choices for an engine swap...some may be easier than others. And no, the V8 (as much as I love...

Had a spare hour today so turned attention to the side locker. If there was ever a feature added that was a) designed to rust and b) designed to catch and retain crud, this modification qualifies. At some point its been patched with stainless sheet. The trim came off first. Then the tray was...

Every resto starts with the first bolt. Mine happened to be the rear propshaft UJ. I want to keep things as mobile as possible and the clunk from the rear had to go. All that rust had to go and the polywheel cleaned it up a treat. All the bits got a degrease and acid dip then a coat of that...

I have been mulling over what to do with the Isuzu lump. A 200TDI or 300TDI would be a logical way to go, if (and its a big if) a swap is to be made. I will get some photos of the current engine mounts and get opinions on how much its been hacked. Correct me if I'm wrong but a TD5 has an ECU...

Does this mean swivel bearings, not bushes? 32 splines rather than 24 on the half shaft? All will become clear once stripped, but its always good to know what lurks before undoing the bolts.