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After all that bleeding it still went down slowly to the floor with your flex line test (clamped off). So, I realized I am still using the master (even though it looked better) that failed the flex line test. Now I have gone ahead and ordered a TRW clutch master which will be here next Tuesday...

Nothing is leaking. I replaced the slave, but used the new master again because it looked better made than the cast iron one I tried earlier. It is a Proline which was purchased from Rovers North in Vermont.

Okay here it is: bench bled master, replaced slave, reverse bled system with V5 system, power bled system while also pump bleeding. just tried test with flex line clamped shut. Pedal goes down to floor but can be pumped up enough to shift, but loses it fast. Is there some other test I can use...

Thanks for your help! I've ordered new master and slave. Yes I am thinking the ones I have, which are cast iron, may be an issue. Also found some leaking at base of slave by push rod that I didn't notice before (it is new cast iron also). LOL

Strange thing is this the second new clutch master on this go around!

Pedal goes slowly all the way down.

Okay, What is a mole grip and how do I use it? I am using a vise grip plier to clamp off the flex line.

I am using a vise grip plier to clamp off the flex line.

Okay, maybe this is getting somewhere. What is a mole grip and how do I use it?

peddle still goes slowly down to floor and can be pumped up sort of ~. Where would be the trapped air?

By bleeding at the slave?

Thanks for the responses! The manual says like 1/16" before the rod contacts the piston. I think it is about negligible now in an attempt to get more peddle travel. Flex hose is new also. I am going to check the master again to see if it will hold after being pumped. If it doesn't, is it...

I did redo that. Now it is adjusted so peddle is all the way up with just the 3/4" free play of slave adjustment. The problem is when I pump the peddle enough (2-3 times) for a gear change, then the peddle doesn't hold pressure when my foot is on it and down to the floor.

I'm debating pulling the master and rebleeding on bench?

Can't seem to get the air out of the clutch system. Bleeding at the slave cylinder still leaves me with a peddle that must be triple pumped for effective clutch release. There must be a better a better way. The master cylinder and the slave cylinder have both been replaced. Any ideas will be...

Solex carb and Petronix ignition are working, but engine is hard starting I have to turn distributor against rotation to advance it enough to get it going. It will not idle. runs best at higher RPMs. The cam is the newer one ETC 7128. Does it have a different timing than the older cam?

I'm unsuccessful timing cam using dial indicators or the 2a method of hole in block. Vacuum gauge is reading steady at almost Zero (0). I am unable to find any vacuum leaks around intake manifold and carb base. Per vacuum gauge timing is late. Can anyone tell me how many degrees advance I will...

Soo~ the engine is back together again and running better!! I adjusted the clearance to .012, ran the engine looking and feeling the action of each rocker. The valves seem to be operating smoothly oiling well. I think polishing the rocker pads did it! To help a little I have the lash...

Okay, that is about where I am. Cradock said "std 7 inch pushrods". Turner said the pushrods they use for engines 7:1 going to 8:1 are #546798 and they work. My pushrods are 546798. So I will put the rocker assembly back on the engine and very slowly turn it over by hand to see if one sticks...

no I can't replicate it. only happened a few times when I turn it over by hand. Beyond that it has been the engine running very rough, dying rather than idling, vacuum gauge reading ~5 psi indicating late valve timing or sticking valves. Rockers are handed and on the right and left way.