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Thank you. I see on Paddock spares that an oil seal is black and costs a couple of pounds but on John Craddock the seals look silvery and are around £14.00. I have never opened this part of the car before so don't know what part i am likely to need. Can you give me any advice on this?

The seal on my front diff where the front prop shaft joins is leaking badly. I want to replace it but see that a cylinder is needed to knock the new one back in. Can anyone tell me what diameter of tool is needed for this?

I recently fitted a new hand brake cable to my defender 90. The hardest part was getting the rubber end through the hole in the hand brake lever. It was a nightmare. I tried grease, but it was still a nightmare. Does anyone have any advice in how to make the job easier? I may be removing the...

Problem solved. I had nipped the yellow wire between the hand brake lever and the seat box when I was replacing the hand brake cable, so I cut off the damaged section, connected a new piece of wire and a new blade connector. Job done.

I’ll check them tomorrow. Thanks for that.

Sorry; it’s the dashboard light. I have just checked that the I thought that the only things to cause the brake warning light to stay on was either the fluid reservoir being low, a stuck float, or the handbrake lever switch Sticking. Would a 2004 Defender 90 have sensors on the brake discs?

Sorry; it’s the warning light on the dash. I have checked that the float in the brake fluid reservoir is moving and cleaned the reservoir connections but the light is still on.

The brake warning light on my Defender 90 TD5 dashboard has come on. The fluid level is fine and the brakes appear to be working as normal. When I push the switch on the handbrake lever with my finger the light still stays on. Does anyone know what this could be?

Next problem. The brakes on my Defender 90 TD5 work but when I sit at traffic lights on a hill, my brake pedal slowly drops and I start moving forward. When I pump the pedal it works fine again but soon starts to slip again. Is this likely to be the master cylinder or the servo that is leaking?

Job all done now. New brake shoes, springs and new brake cable. Fitting the cable was the hardest part; getting the sprung end of the cable in place and getting the lever end through the hole in the lever were a nightmare. Also had to loosen off the backplate to get my hand in to hold the right...

2004. Are you sure you are not talking about the rod operated type that has horizontal shoes and a piston style adjuster?

Oh, sorry I see that described as the adjuster; I take it that they are one and the same?

My brake is cable only; I don’t thing that there are any pistons!

I opened it up today and everything is coated in a brown dust. Have ordered new brake shoes, new springs and a new cable. It would be easier to clean up the back plate of the vehicle; is removing it just a case of undoing the four bolts on the plate? I don’t mind spending on it but most of it...

I opened it up today and everything is coated in a brown dust. Have ordered new brake shoes, new springs and a new cable. It would be easier to clean up the back plate off the vehicle; is removing it just a case of undoing the four bolts on the back plate?

The hand brake on my Defender 90 Td5 2004 is sticking and the lever us bouncing up when I release it. I plan to open the drum to see if muck is the issue. Is it safe to use WD40 on the springs etc, or should I only use brake cleaner?

Thank you. I know to disconnect the battery but was just wondering why the prop shaft needs removed.

I need to fit a new starter motor to my Defender 90 Td5. I have not done this before so would appreciate any advice on what to do. The manual says that I need to remove the front prop shaft but the AA breakdown guy said that you just undo the three bolts, undo the electrical connections and...