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SLS HEIGHT KIT...HI DAVID...BEEN TALKING ABOUT YOU ON ANOTHER FORUM!!! lol...we were discussing how it could be done and PaulMC mentioned your post on here...VERY interesting! Are you a member on he D2BC forum? Re the kit...is there a cost yet? is it a simple enough install? thanks mate, foss

Thankyou

Oh right cheers, yeah I have a parts manual paper book that I bought... I can find the part numbers.... I just enquiring in the first post if the series type handles/locks will fit in an early 110 aperture

ok...im missing a brain cell here chap...could you point me in the direction of the manual please thanks

thanks...didnt realise there was a manual on here :doh:

well Ive finally had enough of the stupid door mechanism inside the front and second row doors...its simply now impossible to open any of them from the handle inside... they are the lifty up handle type on the outside (its an '84) the latches themselves are VERY similar looking to Series 2/3...

What he said...that's outright upselling!

My 110 is in the for sale section...note to sellers...if [email protected] emails you its a scam...he can't even speak English properly...

Brueshed...I did a quick light sand & primer first...obvioudsy the longer you prep the better the finish! Will probably do another coat to be honest..one small tin, 2.5l i think did all 4 wheels twice & still half a tin left for another coat & the spare

think it gets plugged from memory...go on AliveTunings site,..theres a fitting guide on there

cheers! believe it or not Hammerite Smooth...in Cream! B&Q £15

painted wheels & took the door tops off this weekend...

I put a new-un on a couple of weeks ago as my battery light was staying on after start up until i revved it...now with the new alternator, when i use anything electrical the bloody light comes on! its like having 2 indicator warning lamps!! arrghhh!!! Im guessing the new alternators pants unless...

ok, had a go at this yesterday but hit a wall after about 5 minutes... in the piccie...i loosened the outer nut no probs, but the inner torx head screw/bolt wont budge and i dont want to knacker the head of it... if i remove the 2 together by unscrewing the outer nut, will this cause any...

ok guys... the damper is good the tracking is done the swivels are preloaded fine ...so the box it looks like...am i to assume the outer nut on top of the box is to lock the centre torx head bolt...im guessing thats like a worm screw to adjust ?

well the lock was jammed and it was the wrong key! job done

rule number 1-dont think about it !!! :d:d

as above...the brackets are ****ers...one side just flopped about so i modified it just before i was about to weld it & it stayed there!

It a chain... Mines on 128k now & had it since 112k...maintenance wise in that time ive had -inj loom -engine loom -2 air bags -ace pipes -pas pipes -clutch & flywheel -water pump -head gasket -oil pump bolt -brakes -usual servicing -new BCU So...yes 90k-120k seems like when things seem to wear...

I have the type pictures below & I seem to be unable to get it to work correctly. with the key in, I can rotate the lock so that the claw mates with the staple that is attached to the underside of the bonnet...however the barrel does not turn freely of the lock body at any point to actually...