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How will you stop it rusting if it doesn't leak any oil?

So stepping towards the answer. Thanks for the document. Mine does drop from 1.5A to 0.7A (approx 800ma reduction) but after about 20 or 30 seconds. Not two minutes as the document suggests. Just to confirm, I pulled MF1, 4 and 5, and the current started at 0.3A, then after maybe 30 seconds...

But it's stormy :-(

It has a standard radio. I've just unplugged the RF receiver. Blue wire and power, same result. At least I now I know I have the MK2 receiver. It's a crappy thing, key only works right by the rear window. I sort of wanted this to be the issue to justify replacing it, but looks like I need to...

I'd roughly 2" between the opening and the top of the acid. But I can't see the cells so assumed it's normal. SO I've done some investigating and learnt two things. 1. There are little vents on the capcs. I found it bubbling though one of them. Removed the cap and it was gently bubbling 2"...

I've been having some battery problems recently. Didn't move it for a couple of weeks and it had 2.6V. Hmmmm. It's taken a charge and starts fine now. Not sure if there's an electrical drain, or a duff battery yet. I get loads of corrosion on the terminals, and the top of the battery is always...

A 1988 Range Rover is a Range Rover. Almost as good as the P38, right when the model peaked.

I MOT my P38 at Kwik Fit

Bit of a coincidence for it to also now the off the road. I suspect it had a bump and wrapped as a part of the repair.

It falied an MOT in 2022 due to: Nearside Headlamp aim too low (4.1.2 (a)) Offside Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a)) So may have had a bit of a knock at some point.

E10 EFL Apparently Although shows as gold and not red. Could be wrapped I suppose. It's MOT and TAX have expired. How naughty. It was a 4.4 V8 2016 Diesel

So my positive battery terminal has been a constant source of corrosion. Where talking mounds of blue and white powered. I'd clean it off from time to time, but otherwise failed to do anything about it. Anyway, I now need to do somehting about it, as the car failed to start. Cleaning up the...

Not convinced by your maths. Hydrogen is 33 kWh/kg Petrol is 13 kWh/kg Let's assume the same thermal efficiency from the engine. My P38, on a really good run will achieve 20mpg (that may be optimistic). Which is 4.4 miles per litre. One litre of petrol is 0.74kg So about 6 miles per kg of...

I wouldn't count on it. You'd need a tank the size of your car.

If you want a cheap temporary solution then buy four 6mm Schrader valves, stick them on the four pipes that lead to the bags and inflate them to get the car rolling.

Just cleaning off the crud now, it feels like body filler that doesn't have any hardener in it. So I'm guessing some sort of sealant. Going to clean it all off and start again. If it's compromised in anyway, I'll start with another block.

That diagram is great. Lips on the tank outlet port (6, but looks like an 8), blowing hard, with my finger on the covering the pressure switch hole (12), I can hear air coming out of the dryer inlet port (5, but looks like a 6), so NRV-1 must be leaking. Looking forward to seeing why it's...

I'm in South London so not convenient. I'll remove the pressure relief valve tonight and see what things look like. With the pipes, I'd rather avoid adding any new points of failure. I've read that the plastic push units don't like the exhaust headers being so close.

I'm just about to re-build my EAS valve block. A couple of queries however that came to mind as I was removing it form the car and wouldn't mind getting a second opinion on. First, I'm rebuilding it as my tank slowly looses pressure (circa 2 psi per hour) and it;s not from the tank or the line...

I fitted a Schrader valve to the pipe to the tank, filled the tank, left it 24 hours and it only lost about 3 psi. Since the garage compressor is filling it with warm air, 3 psi sounds like the pipe and tanks are not the issue. So I'm going to skip the pin hole check on the tank. So that just...