Search results

NGK. I've never had trouble with them. Dad used to have a marine shop and used many, many thousands. Had one faulty one, ever. I run NGK in my VWs and the Disco 1 (actually, everything, in honesty 🤣 ) High RPM misfire can be a worn cam too, if it comes across like like rough running and sudden...

Probably the thermostat stuck part open - that's the more usual way for them to fail, so warmup take ages, if at all...

Huh? Guessing you haven't owned one then, or maybe didn't know where to look? There is a MASSIVE range of "aftermarket" parts for BMW, even from the manufacturers who made the originals: Lemforder, Valeo, Bosch, Bremi, Beru, etc, etc, etc. They are generally very reasonably priced - almost...

It's trying hard to reduce the fuelling on the even bank. A new sensor does NOT gaurantee it's OK. Also needs the wiring checked. The 14CUX is pretty basic, A lambda sensor fault is NOT usually caused by a reading that's a bit out of range, but by a dramatically off issue - such as no signal...

Holy crap. Opposite of up here! I was sweating my balls off! Must have been 90% humid, but "only" 26C. Prolly doesn't help that I changed jobs - no longer in Public health, where you get to do stuff-all for double the pay... I now work in a giant laundry factory... and it gets hot and humid...

I'm in NZ, but use www.spareto.com although I only buy brands I know from there. I've never had an issue and have probably spent about the equivalent of 5000 UK Pounds for BMW's, VW/Audi, Subaru, Land Rover and some oddball other cars.

Here, On a Disco 1 This is with the wing removed, and the plastic scuttle cover, at the very base of the A pillar Door on the left of the pic, corner of bonnet of the right (green): But that ENTIRE seam on Disco 1's lets water in, once the crappy sealer has dried out... it then hold moisture...

At the base of the windscreen, where the pillar joins the inner wing and scuttle area, there is a hole from manufacture. It *had* sealer in it, but it dries out - just like the ****ty crap the used in the gutters. The whole seam is a leak point. On my Disco 1, I had to strip and reseal the...

You don't HAVE to use the correct plug - I just got a plug off a VW loom in my junk pile, and soldered it's wires to the pins in the original socket, then wired my Rovergauge to the matching VW plug. I still have both plugs under there, if I ever require the original Rover one.

Get Rovergauge. the car is NOT OBD compliant. The hunting idle, if not related to a vacuum leak or poorly set idle bypass etc, often comes from running rich. If the emmisions are that bad, it probably IS runing rich, but SO MANY people try to "fix" these things by bodging stuff up and fiddling...

You probably just have to do it properly. If you don't activate the kickdown, it'll hold 2nd. Full torque request is reached before the kickdown is activated. It's a saftey feature that makes a lot of sense. What if you need to suddenly accelerate, but have forgotten you're in manual mode etc...

My brother in law had a RR Sport TDV6 installed into his 2014 Disco 4. It just has to be done right. There is no coding, because you are only swapping the mechanicals - the electronics will remain the same. I don't know what extent of ancilliaries need swapping, but things like exhausts or...

But if you'd decided to buy a car for 3 grand, the clutch could have crapped out in 6 months anyway. I never understand why people relate the cost of a repair to the value of the car - it needs to be compared to a REPLACEMENT car that's worth buying. I think you made the right choice -...

There was an old guy in a town a bit north of here (northern NZ, Kerikeri) who's car was not road legal for something like 15 or 20 years! It was in the 80's and 90's, so no tech to find it, but how often would a respectable old fulla get pulled over in his Rolls-Royce? 🤪

What? On Landyzone??? 🤣 ;)

14CUX on the Hotwire EFI, best diagnostics tool is rovergauge.

No idea, but it looks suspiciously like a bracket for a handbrake cable, or similar.

The Disco 1 V8 uses ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. That's why it's not advanced at idle, but advances at part throttle, such as when cruising, and just off idle.

Did anyone check any basics? Is the click from the starter solenoid? or a relay? Hook a buzzer up to the starter motor, and if it buzzes, but doesn't start, the system is working and the starter is faulty. Work you way back through the system using the wiring diagram, until you find the fault...

What voltage was it? Try Neutral, instead of park.