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Set of bulkhead repair panels for Series 3. New & unused, supplied by YRM Metal Solutions. RHS/RHD Footwell Repair Panel (2 part) (YRM 034) RHS/RHD Inner Wing Mud Shield (YRM 166) RHD Steering Box Cover (YRM 183) No longer have my Series, so these are on offer for £45 or thereabouts. Due to...

Hi Ludo, I have a 2.25 block that needs a rebuild. It was dismantled, core plugs removed, then loosely reassembled. No head or front cover, but includes rear cover, flywheel, camshaft and sump. Standard size pistons (no rings). It probably wants a rebore. It's taking up space in my shed so I'm...

Still available! I need to make space for a new project, so this block is now free to collect from near Kelso TD5, Scottish Borders.

Hazard warning switch. It's a push-on / push-off type switch. The silver box in your first pic is the military-type flasher unit. The military wiring loom uses this flasher unit for the normal indicators and the hazards, so if your indicators are working it's likely the hazards will work as well...

The Lucas 45D4 and the Ducellier are interchangeable on the 17H engine. I think the 17H came from the factory with a Ducellier - the workshop manual says Lucas, but the parts catalogue shows Ducellier! They have effectively the same settings in terms of centrifugal and vacuum advance so you...

There's a 12V version of the 3-gauge Smiths cluster, but these are even more rare than the 24V. As far as I know, all Series 3 military FFR were 24V, but GS were 12V. My ex-mil GS Ser3 was 12V; it had the 3-gauge Smiths cluster but these gauges are notorious for corroding internally and just...

Decided to sell the 2.5 engine that I was rebuilding for my Series 3. It's a 2.5 block with head and front cover from a 2.25 Series. The block was re-bored +20 by Turners, deck honed and new core plugs and cam bearings fitted. The head is 8:1 unleaded, also recon by Turners. New parts fitted...

This 32/34 DMTL has a reputation for heat soak when used on the Landy engine - I think it was designed for crossflow engines where the inlet and exhaust manifolds are on opposite sides of the block. There are two potential issues: vapour lock and flooding. Tthe swirl pot and electric pump are...

Ouch!:( There's not much in a diesel Series 3 that's polarity sensitive, but the alternator is! Likely you've killed the rectifier pack in the alternator. You can confirm by pulling the plug out of the alternator and checking if the short is still there. You might be able to repair it, but it...

I think the question is about which points/condenser to buy. There are 3 distributors fitted to Series 3 - Lucas 25D4, Lucas 45D4 and Ducellier. The Ducellier was only fitted to late Series 3s, but they can get swapped in to replace worn Lucas dizzies, so the only way to know for sure is to...

The senders on diesel models have two insulated terminals - one for the gauge and one for the warning light. Some senders also have an non-insulated earth terminal. The black wire would go to that earth terminal on the sender, but yours doesn't have one, so maybe a previous owner just connected...

It's been a while since I had a Zenith on the bench (my last Series had a Weber 34ICH), but the jets should have a number stamped on the top. Moving one size up or down from standard probably isn't going to make a big difference but best to use the standard sizes, at least to start with. The...

Series 2.25 3MB petrol engine block for rebuild. I was planning to rebuild this myself for my Series 3, but then found a 2.5 engine and decided to build that instead. Dismantled, core plugs removed, then loosely reassembled. No head or front cover, but it does have the rear cover, flywheel and...

Some late Series 3 had a "pedal travel switch" fitted as well as a normal brake light switch. The idea was to bring on the brake warning light if the pedal was pressed down too far - e.g. if there was a leak somewhere in the brake circuits. Hopefully, most drivers would know that this was a...

That pipe goes to the oil cooler as per pic below. You could blank it off if you could find the correct fitting, but it's easier to remove the adaptor (part 247753 below) and put the oil filter back without it. The adaptor sits between the oil filter and the block and it's easy to unbolt the...

That flexi pipe is the feed from the oil cooler to the sump. It's not under pressure so you can just blank that one off (keep the end above the level of oil in the sump). But you need to find out where the pressure feed pipe goes (orange arrow in pic below). When the engine is running, that pipe...

+1 on Smith & Allan I use their Ultra 20W50 in my 2.25 petrol with no problems. It's a high miles engine, so I'm happy to use a thicker oil - if it was rebuilt I'd look at something a bit thinner e.g. 15W40. There's a lot of discussion about "classic" oils with added ZDDP and low detergents, but...

I agree with the suggestion to convert to 12V. The 24V system is quite complex and you would need a generator panel and maybe a shunt box from a FFR LandRover, plus all the harness/connectors, to make it work. By comparison, fitting a 12V starter, distributor and alternator should be easier...

Some late-model Series 3 have a brake failure warning light in the centre panel next to the hazard switch. In this case, there's generally a relay included to show that the light is working. The idea is that the relay is connected to the feed to the starter motor (white/red wire) so the light...