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2.25 petrol - 3 main bearing.

I fitted Heystee discs to the front and 11" 109 drums to the rear. Standard S3 servo. The actual brake parts (master and slave cylinders, discs and shoes) are all Defender. Setup works a treat. Wet, dry, forward, reverse. All good.

That tape should run the full width of the dash and is there just to stop the green showing through above the dash tray. I have just rebuilt my S3 and I just used black duct tape. It's about the right width and sticks like the proverbial.

It seems to work OK (on the bench!) - the angle of the flap can be adjusted with the little set screw that bears on the top of the selector, but as it is, it does stop the lever heading into the reverse gate until there is a definite extra push applied. Then the flap pops up just as it should...

Here you go. I managed to weld up the flappy hinge thing so there was enough meat to drill two new mounting holes next to each other, rather than top and bottom, like the original. I welded the original mounting holes closed. Bit of black zinc paint and she's a good 'un. Have now got to get...

OK - I have all the parts and have now rebuilt the box. The difference between the older reverse selector shaft and the new one (PN 576729 to PN FRC2053) is the way the little flappy paddle that makes reverse more 'springy' than the other gears, attaches. On the older one, the securing bolts...

Guess I'll be ordering the reverse selector shaft then!! I've ordered from about six different suppliers, including the Italians. Blanchard is not on that list but will be after today, as I see that they have genuine selector shafts actually in stock. I found a lot of outfits advertising that...

OK - Got the parts rolling in now. The Italian TAS stuff definitely has an air of quality about it, so that's encouraging. One question - In the parts manual, the reverse selector shaft changes from PN 576729 to PN FRC2053 at September 1979. My suffix D rebuild will be (effectively) 1981...

Yep - I'm scouting around trying to find people who have them in stock. The units from TAS in Italy do look to be nicely machined parts, for sure. Thanks for your help on this.

Now I just have to find the 1/2 synchro and 3/4 synchro OEM...... Needles in haystacks come to mind!

Thanks guys. I see from having a brief look on the web that specific Suffix D parts do appear to be in better supply than some of the Suffix B stuff, so it strikes me as the logical way to go, as I'll be doing the lot.

I have a very tired Series 3 Suffix B gearbox. I sourced it out of a paddock, emptied the water out, cleaned it up and rebuilt it, it works after a fashion, but it really needs a good going over and a lot of new parts. Can anyone tell me, if I am replacing basically all of the innards, can I...

Thanks Samc88. You're the first person I've seen reporting that they've used pattern gearbox parts with no issues! As they appear to be the only ones that are actually available and we have no choice but to use them, it's good to know that they CAN work. Did a road test for the first time...

Well - four years later I finally got her underway under her own power! BUT - she has a tendency to jump out of first gear - almost like it doesn't properly engage. When I rebuilt the box I did not really know what I was looking for by way of wear - so I just changed the bearings and put it...

Hi - Did you ever get your S3 gearbox working correctly? I have just finished my 76 resto and didn't really do anything to the gearbox other than fit new bearings and seals. It makes horrid noises and jumps out of first. I'd be interested in buying new innards for it, but don't really know...

Does anyone have a CAD copy of a Series wiring diagram? I am rewiring my S3, want to document my changes and it'd be great to be able to start with something, rather than from scratch. DWG or DXF formats preferably, but I daresay I could convert most others. Cheers Andrew

I ended up fitting one to each end. I picked that if they are genuinely useful then there should be one each side. If not then that's a few quid down the pan.....

Yep - I fitted the Heystee disc setup and threw away the drums. As far as I can tell - my axle is the same as all of the books/Internet photos, with the exception of the strengthening piece on the bottom edge of the passenger side. Certainly the diff looks the same as the Series illustrations...

Only six bolts each end of my axle. It doesn't look as if it has been modified, but without anything to compare it with, it is difficult to be certain. If it is a Rangie axle, does anyone know if the differential is different from a Series? To my way of thinking, the length of the diff nose...

OK - a bit more to report here. I got hold of GME. They were very quick to respond, but told me to go through Paddocks. So - I hung out for a reply from Paddocks. A day or two later I got an email asking for my front axle serial number. So I sent that. Next day I got an email saying that...