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It has a 19j fitted with the 3 Pin connections so can only really go one way

Connected to the alternator

Yes for a good 5 mins :rolleyes: haha

Battery voltage stayed the same when turned off and running It’s a brand new alternator and all earths are good that was first thing we checked And yeh when my dad was checking the wiring the light went out when unplugged and back on when the circuit bulb was on it? I’m gonna check all earths...

Yeh done all that held revs for a good few minutes and nopes hence why I needed a new one, as far as I’m aware it’s earthed well as it light is lit and not broken, (I hope) and that wiring diagram is one I’ve followed when rewiring :)

Right okay, which comes from the white wires to the fuses then charge light to alternator? It has a brand new loom from auto sparks which is followed from various wiring diagrams, so should this come the same side as the thick brown wires (which it is at the minute) or the accessories side?

Nopes so I’m unsure where to go next as it’s goes straight to the fuse via bulb ‍♀️

Hello all, Just a quick one bought a new alternator for Effy the s3 88, how ever the charge light stays on no matter what, checked the wires from starter (all getting power) apart from the charge light when tested with circuit bulb, I’ve checked the belt and the battery which does go above...

I had your problem but I ended up getting a 2 pin flasher unit of a fella on eBay who sells a lot of Land Rover stuff and then I bought a rdx hazard relay all work great,

Nice what do you think of it? What did you end up doing with the hand throttle?

Ohhh I took mine out, mine has a 19j fitted so they had bodged the accelator cable together and it looked a right mess, so I replaced with a proper 2.5td accelator cable and modified the pedal, atm I’m working on electrics more so indicators and hazards ‍♀️

You’ll have to let us know how you get on, I did mine on me own (5’ 3”) and managed but it is heavy stuff! And remember fresh blades and a metal straight edge when cutting!

Ohhh ayeeee definitely could loose a few digits if your not careful but honestly worth the money

I don’t think you need to use adhesive, I haven’t on my as they all fit on top of each other and it’s a decent weight in its self! Bloody a 5ver defo got a bargain there just make sure you have plenty of Stanley blades as it’s thick stuff to get through when cutting for the seat box

I know it’s a bit late but if you have Facebook have a look at Steven Baldwin he breaks series land rovers, I got a pair of wings nearly straight for a good price

Yeh straight swap but not glass fuses I’ll guess I’ll start trawling through websites now haha

So is it worth just putting that to one side and starting again? Is there any way that it can Be used?

I’m in dire need of some help from you knowledgeable lot.... So I’ve upgraded from the the Lucas glass type fuses to led blade ones, however I’m struggling to get my head around getting power to the box? I for some reason can’t find a permanent power wire although I do have power at the starter...

I think it was about £325 or summat? Well worth it tho, hides all the little imperfections but as people have said up top make sure floor pans are waxy oiled etc! But they can come from series 1 right up to defenders

Ohhh I know I’m going to tackle the roof and see where we go from there otherwise it’s for summer :( haha