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The lights come on intermittently, but turn off when I get off the brake. From what I saw in the car manual, the HDC has a protection against overheating of the brake. I believe the brake switch has a 'normally open contact' (for brake lights) and a 'normally closed contact' (for TC Control)...

Hi @hd3, The lights are HDC and TC Control? I have same problem. The lights came up, but when braking its normalize.

Nice, I´ll check if I find Carlube here. Today I changed the flywheel oil seal, torque converter seal and reassembled the jatco with the engine and the IRD. The cylinder heads came back from the grinding, like a new. Tomorrow I'm going buy Loctite 518 to close the camcarrier. I will use...

Can I use Dexron VI in Jatco autobox? In last changes I used Pentosin ATF1, but looking in the forums of the Audi A3 (which uses A09 = JF506e), people used Dexron VI and noticed improvements in the box.

I took the heads to rebuild and it came back disassembled. What type of sealant do I use to put the cam carrier back? Loctite 518 (Anaerobe) is compatible? I've already purchased the gaskets, head bolts, cam belts, seals, and the torque converter seal. About the torque converter, I drained his...

Does your Freelander have a temperature sensor at the bottom of the radiator hose? I had this problem too in my V6 2006, to fix I left that sensor disconnected from the bottom hose. I do not know if all versions of v6 have this sensor.

Cleared the top of pistons from KV6

Whashed the engine. Like a new

This problem happens in the gear shifting? Big chances to be the solenoids. I had a problem in the gear change from 3rd to 4th, where the box returns to 1st and RPM go revs. Changed only the "Shift B" solenoid and fixed the problem.

Today I washed the Jatco autobox. Put pressurized water in the oil cooler and some rust came out. I applied WD40 Rust Remover and will leave it for 24hrs for cleaning, then wash again and test for leaks (water <-oil->).

I forgot to mark the position. The manual says the gap in reductor ring is in ATDC of cylinder 1. Thats helps to assemble the TC in correct position again.

Found this info in REV manual.

Today I removed the gearbox from the engine. In the torque converter I see the gears has 2 teeths missing for the ECU detects RPM and PMS position by RPM sensor. In the assembly I´ll doubt, because the torque converter is possible to mount it in 4 positions, the 4 bolts have the same drilling...

I used 2 mecanical jacks on sides and 1 hydraulic in center of the car. To put the engine again, I'll think in something more safer, lol.

Some activity updates. I removed the engine for maintenance. Already removed the IRD and washed it. Lost +-500ml ATF oil. To take out the automatic gearbox, I will find something to fix the liners so they do not move, because it is necessary to rotate the crankshaft to release the torque...

Probably VIS problem. It´s possible to fix it opening the manifold.

Cool, this car lets you take the engine up or down. I found it easier to remove underneath, and another problem is that I didn´t want to remove the battery because I don´t have the Radio Code.

I used 2 mechanical jacks on the sides and a hydraulic jack in the center of the car to distribute the weight and lifted it up. I made a stand with wheels, dropped the engine on top and pulled out of the car. To put the complete engine again I will use a hydraulic lifter.

Today removed the whole engine.

I can buy in the UK, but shipping and customs costs ends up being expensive. I found here a kit that comes all the gaskets and valve seals with a good price, manufacturer Victor Reinz. I looked this manufacturer on the internet and it looks like it is the supplier of Land Rover (OEM). Does this...