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As I hate dead end threads where people can't be bothered to share solutions I will post my findings once I have spoken to some suppliers. One interesting fact is that if you carefully clean up the bearing caps and use a micrometer across the span of the UJ spider, the rubber boot type measure...

Hi, thanks for your reply. I think I might have figured out what the issue is. As I own a small engineering company I've taken the time to carefully measure and examine the propshaft and UJs. It appears that there might be two different designed of UJs. One type, the one that doesn't fit my old...

Seems to be more than one supplier bringing down the quality and reliability of Land Rover parts. The new UJs I tried to fit were GKN branded and made in Germany to a high standard. The problem arises that it appears to me that the parts supplied are different to the original component. This...

I have already done them thanks. I used my hydraulic press as our fly press is usually set up to do other jobs. Interesting that the fly press worked well though. I'm always worried that I won't have enough control but this is possibly as we tend to use ours for small press stamping jobs.

A reliable source tells me that the cheap (£165) 'new' propshafts, mostly recons from China are generally very unreliable lasting less than 12 months and the alternative European version is £380 + vat). While I appreciate that not everyone has access to a their own engineering workshop it's not...

Well, the supplier has accepted a return but this doesn't help me get the car back on the road or explain why mine seems to be different than the standard 75mm span joints. Plus I have to collect a propshaft on a motorbike. I'm glad it's not the rear prop ☹️

Could you tell me what brand the ones that did and didn't fit? Thanks.

After messing around for a while trying to find the cause of a rumbling and vibration through the drive train of our 2000 D2 TD5 I traced it to a worn out UJ in the double Cardon Joint. I stripped the damaged UJs out and cleaned everything up and waited for the repair kit. The kit arrived but...

To round this thread off the cause of the vibration was a failed UK bearing in the front prop shaft double Cardon Joint. I think it had possibly started to freeze due to water ingress and showed itself a couple of days ago when I checked it for the umpteenth time. I ordered a repair kit and...

Yes, but I always go for the cheap and easy to check components before I start changing ECUs. To paraphrase Sherlock Holmes, once you have eliminated everything else, whatever is left must be the problem. And given that the fault occured directly after a connector pulled out I'd start there with...

I'd have to be suspicious of the connector, cabling and sensor that was pulled apart. I always keep a known working sensor in the draw for comparison purposes. I'd have to assume a damaged conductor somewhere. Sorry to not be more help but go for the simple cheap checks first before things like...

Hi all, I'm looking for someone breaking an Oslo Blue 2000 D2 TD5. I need an Oslo Blue rear quarter panel as someone scrunched my beloved Disco in a car park. It's the outer skin that unscrews/unbolts I need. I'd be more than willing to remove the part myself if someone has one or knows of a car...

I hate leaving threads unfinished so, after deciding to just drive the car and wait for the culprit to reveal themselves it would appear that we have a winner. After all this I found the bottom centre linkage bush on the watts linkage has failed. I'm still working my way through wobbly bearings...

This is great news guys. I've never done one before. I've seen it done in videos and dealt withe the stuck waste gate issue. I'm thinking the disassembly doesn't look too bad and I'll be sure to mark the manifold for the oil pipe position. I have oxyacetylene in my workshop which seems to come...

Yes, if you're going over to the continent peace of mind is worth it. I hadn't heard about the issue of Carden joints failing without warning. Sounds worrying. I'm going to rebuild ours with greasable joint too. I don't know where you're based but we have a 35 tonne hydraulic press which you're...

I know it's just my own humble opinion but I run our 2000, TD5, manual as our only car/daily driver. I just couldn't imagine not having a D2. I don't believe they're bad cars, a little more complex than the average but they have so much going for them. I do all my own repairs and welding. I...

Okay, I've decided, as I love my D2 and want to keep her on the road and relatively trouble free for as long as possible, I'm embarking on a round of preventative maintenance. One of the jobs on my list is to fit a new turbo cartridge as there is oil leaking into the pipe to the intercooler...

Hi all sorry about the slow reply. Thanks for the link Bantam1. I think, after a comprehensive survey of the chassis, much as I'd love to just build up on a new galvanized one... This is the plan. New rear 1/3 chassis. As for the front, it's pretty good other than the outside edges of the spring...

Ours has a very small amount of play in the front most UJ of the Carden joint but the slop in the output shaft is much worse. We're getting a vibration under hard acceleration and just over 50mph. The vibration is most noticeable through the steering wheel. It is strange though that it appeared...

Excellent, that's exactly what I needed to know. I'll order the bearing tomorrow. You've made my day. I've replaced the clutch on the deck so wanted to avoid pulling the transfer box at all costs as it's really heavy. Thanks very much again.