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Worth checking the side repeater too, they’re prone to internal corrosion.

NS wing indicator wire - told ya! Will blow when left turn is activated, it can also blow when wet. I can’t remember off the top of my head, but I think it’s a green wire you’re looking for (check the wiring diagram). It’ll be chafed along the length somewhere (probably about halfway between...

Ok, as @miktdish suggested earlier it sounds like you have a live short to earth, maybe a chafed wire behind the dash somewhere. The indicator wire (especially NS inner wing) are especially prone to this, but this wire is only live when the indicator switch is on, so you’ll need to be looking at...

Does the fuse blow when you use the indicator?

Gearbox breather, maybe rear axle breather. Nothing to worry about, but get it repaired before you forget about it. You can either replace the whole pipe, or just put a repair piece in (male/male joiner).

You need to check all the major earth straps/points, battery-chassis-engine block etc. Make sure they are tight and not corroded. Your handbrake cable has acted as an earth, melted the nylon outer and is now stuck!

Yep, you need the very top bolt, which I believe you know, but the one in question doesn’t do anything. It doesn’t even snug down, there is about 1/2” of a shoulder sticking up (below the bolt head), where something may have hooked to on previous models?

Not the clearest photo, but I’ve got those bolts fitted too. They look like they may be a relic from the older-style seatbelt setups.

Before you remove the gearbox, check to make sure the reverse light switch isn’t in too far/broken.

RustFest is on tomorrow. Be there, or be square.

Yeah, no problem. I was also going to reply to your other post - are you replacing the load bay floor, or the second row floor?

You’ve been busy! I’ll take a photo or two tomorrow.

Avoid the one in the second photo! For £13k I’d expect a galvanised chassis, the prices of Landies have taken a big drop recently.

Eggsackery. They’re very good!

This sort of disc is invaluable for removing glue/paint/rust etc. I got through a few when doing mine. Cheaper in multiple packs on Amazon, eBay. https://www.toolstation.com/abracs-poly-abrasive-disc/p22693

The pressed section must be a rust trap as mine looks like it has been replaced in the past. The box section looks a bit homemade, did the job though. Talking of rust traps, there are a couple of those on the back of the a-frame crossmember. These need covering with a metal plate welded on. I’ll...

The above is a closeup of this

The YRM part looks correct. I’ll take a photo tomorrow to show how it attaches.

In that case you probably just need to remove the four rivets per support (me thinks). If I knew how much work mine was going to be I probably would have done what you are planning and take the tub out.

These are the only photos I took. I was too p*ssed off the rest of the time! 😂