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yes, please. you have forgotten the most important picture!

indeed, am sure we would all like to get back what we spent on our classics. mine owes me circa £16,000 over 13yrs, though you would not think it looking at it! only reason its still around at 200,000 miles though. dont sell i say, you will regret it one day, in the not too distant future. must...

yep, scuttle off for me, but i will wait until next spring. will have to suffer the damp inside for another winter. turning into an annual strip down this car

might be worth finding where the sensor is on the box/ or cooler pipes, and checking the sensor connection.

sometimes the only way to be sure, is to substitute a suspect part out for a know working one. but from what you have said, MAF looks like the first port of call. in the meantime though, you could do some checks, like make sure the electrical connector is good not damaged, an the pins are free...

so here are some pix. always some damp/ water after heavy rain probably why all that welding needed doing!!! pooling water in the radio valley drilled two small drain holes in it, and put some grease down there for now bulkhead cavity through air vents. clearly a nice old water...

Ok, will do. Sounds like a common issue. Just a matter of deciding when is the right time to attack it.

Yep, am aware of blocked sunroof drains issue I have tried a number of times to clear the front two. Now the car is parked on a slope with the nose end higher, so the water drains to the rear two, that thankfully are not blocked. I don't have any compressed air here, but its a good idea...

yes, it looks like an epic amount of work. that car has gone in every possible place by the looks of it. but as the values of classics seem to be increasing, maybe more people will consider it viable now? mine has been gradually patched up over the years of ownership, but it does generally need...

excellent, thanks. thats just the sort of thread i was looking for! looks like it should pretty much covered everything. never been in practical classics site before (didn't even know they had one, but good to know!

yes, i guessed it was under the scuttle cover. i sorted of assumed they would rot, as they do everywhere else. must be the only place on the car i haven't yet welded. didnt consider only seem sealer though? has anyone on here actually done the repair, who can send me a link, or post some pix...

hi, as the little suggest, i am trying to do some research on this subject. can anyone direct me to a link of pictures of typical classic bulkhead rust/ holes? i tried searching with google and the search box on here, and only come up with series LR bulkheads. been repairing my radio wiring...

yes, thats what i was thinking. it will be more straight forward to make a new power supply.

yes, thats where it gets tricky, as it disappears under the dash. was hoping not to have to remove the dash. could i wire a new connect from the back of the fusebox? never had one out on this car, so no idea what it looks like behind?

no ideas anyone?

oh forgot to say, the permanent live feed is there, so its just the switched live that appears to be iffy.

hello all. i seem to have developed an issue with my radio switched live feed? its only showing 6.5 volts on the switched live input, for some reason, and hence the radio will not work? i have had bad earths before in the past, with the earth point in the radio well there. usually just clean it...

is the alarm OE jag or aftermarket? aftermarket alarms are know to cause all kinds of problems. i had an intermittent immobilizer fault on the 1993 daimler xj40 (Cobra alarm). you may also want to ask the question on XJ40 • Index page its also worth checking the inertia switch is not...

wow! but, even if someone does buy it, you just cant ever drive it, as it will loose 10s of thousands £££ instantly. so whats the point? it can only ever be a show car/ museum car. would rather have my old rotter, that i can stick through a bog and back

hmm, curious. long shot, have you checked for any air leaks on the intake? does it run rough at idle when at all?