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It would be best for the optimal ignoring, however, I keep it there to ensure others are ignoring including myself! Doh!

Seems they want it facing the front of the car... beats me as to why, but I'd go with what they say, they manufacture them after all, not me 😂

Nice to be recognised for my hard work! Better get some sleep so I can continue ignoring...

So to clarify the disc in the picture (provided it is not flipped) I would fit to the offside.

Well aren't the slopes there for water displacement as well as heat dissipation? I would in that case follow the way car and motorcycle tyre tread considering they rotate in the same direction. So to the rear of the car would make sense to me 🤷‍♂️ Thinking about it in a purely logical way...

Indeed both me and the car are abs-less :mad: I'll be with it this weekend, along with checking the front caliper guide pins too so will check this and report back :)

I haven't checked them no, but they've been replaced with stainless steel ones from pioneer so I should imagine they are fine. The hand brake had been a little weird, it seems very... tight, when I drive with it off sometimes going over bumps causes the handbrake light to come on and the hand...

Following up with this again. I bled the master again, which admittingly made it a little better, but still when the engine is off (Brake booster now works) the pedals goes hard but is incredibly spongy! I cannot work it out!!! I have replaced almost everything! I am starting to think either...

Not sure if this one has been posted, but quite a rare model and very low milage...

Oh, Didn't notice, was ignoring... Anyway, back to ignoring.

Anyone got any thoughts on this? I didn't remove the master cylinder to a point where brake fluid comes out, but maybe with the moving it around I need to bleed the master again?

Welp. I replaced the brake booster and it's worse... Now the first 7/8th of the pedal has no resistance and it won't build pressure, I tried to adjust what looks like an adjuster screw in the brake booster but it has not worked, when the engine is off the brake pedal becomes noticeably better...

So didn't get a chance to look at the water pump, however, Managed to plug in my Pscan to log the current O2 sensor. As explained to me by @pscan.eu the O2 sensor should fluctuate between 0.2V and 0.9V Where 0.44V is a missing / wiring fault and 0.2/0.9 is lean and rich I logged the data and...

Sorry! Someone linked this thread, will ignore now.

Here are the facts. I have tracks all expenses I have made on this car (excluding Fuel, Insurance and Road Tax) on just repairs and making it ready for green-laning. feel free to guess how much but It just below anyway. I replaced / repaired. Head gasket Engine Gearbox Skid Plate Various...

I will keep an eye out! That will show up in the oil right? Maybe about time I do an oil change actually 🤔

Honestly, same goal over here, more for green-laning than "off roading" the freelander would not handle it, but if you're up to the task chuck in the same engine, you could probably get an early pre-2001 engine for cheaper, I've got a guide on how to switch the 1.8 between the 2 versions (Wasted...

Just a quick update on this one, I don't think (fingers crossed) it is still losing coolant, however, I think in the time it was, it has inadvertently fried the O2 Sensor? Would that be possible with enough Coolant going through the exhaust? (On this model I have only the 1 O2 sensor on the...

Dual seat SS lines seem great and are not leaking at all, haven't tested how they feel but we will see, closing this out as solved Fittings on a non ABS model are M10x1.0 on ALL fixings

Thank you! When pressing on the brake when I am under the dash in the pedal area, I can hear a hissing and it looks like the brown part under the rubber boot is very cracked my pictures are terrible but here you are: