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If you use just the rocker switch on its own you can only choose elevated, normal or access height. Pressing the lock ride height button first will then allow the highway ride height to be selectable.

Press the lock height button then with this done, press down on the rocker button and it’ll go to m/way height instead of access height. Pressing again will put you down to access height. While the lock height switch is pressed it will remain that height indefinitely even after the engine is...

It’s taken 436 posts and 22 pages but I think we’ve successfully proven that no one on this forum is helpful and that OP is by far and away a high value individual and we’re all betas. Now to match his post length with some AI drivel: Ah, changing the differentials on a Range Rover L322—now...

I’d ideally avoid them as well. I don’t plan on getting rid of the P38 until the government makes it illegal to drive them - I’ve invested far too much money and blood to pass it on. I’ll take a look at the Dunlops though. Hopefully they’ll last a good few years.

Is the G going to be in the SKU code most likely? Currently looking on JGS. Island have them listed as Dunlop though. Still, time to put my hand in my wallet. Again.

Took the P38 out for a camp before a cycling event around Exmoor at the weekend. Some very steep hills in very hot weather and it was absolutely spot on. Currently hovering over the buy button for new front and rear airbags for the P38. AUTODOC have got Arnott ones in stock but no mention on...

Would you mind DMing me the process please?

Realise this. I fitted it back when the car was daily driven, and needed a ‘quick fix’ - now it’s an occasional weekend car there’s a whole list of jobs to put it back to proper.

Waited until it was ‘cool enough’ to run the glow plugs. Started on the button. I’ll remember this for next time! I have got a synergy box set up solely to treat the hot start issue. I think I’m going to have to look at 1) removing the synergy box, followed by 2) adjusting the FIP timing to get...

Derv. Went and had a walk round a classic car museum in the town and now I’m just waiting for it to cool enough to try a cold start..

Currently awaiting rescue in a car park sweating my tits off. Drove into town, about 20 miles and all dandy. Did what I needed to about an hour later and jump in the car.. and it’s just cranks, no attempt at firing at all. Great. Booster pack does help coax it into life either so I think the...

Think it took me about 3 hours to replace the o-rings by using come creative cutting and a lot of swearing. Still a pig of a job but not the worst.

Have you driven the car yet? Go for a lap around the block and see what happens. Might display Traction Failure when you turn the car off but on next start up it should be cleared.

Condenser replaced, took it to the garage for them to nitrogen test - left for 3 hours and didn’t drop a single PSI. Regassed and I’ve got lovely cold air again. Finally*. *until the next thing breaks

New air con condenser in yesterday. Much cleaner than the exhaust the previous day. Sadly has highlighted a leak of some description between the intercooler and the oil cooler as the radiator (which I replaced 6 months ago) has gotten a few patches gummed up. Need to find a solvent I can use to...

Fitted the new exhaust yesterday. I went for one of the £335 ‘sports’ ones you can find on eBay. I must say I’m overall extremely impressed with the welding and it fit beautifully, something I wasn’t sure would happen. Sound wise there’s an ever so slight burble but nothing that’s intrusive in...

Just following up on this - were they M10 bolts? I’ve got to replace my exhaust and the looks of the bolts suggest they’re mostly just holding on wit hopes and dreams.