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I have a 1990 Ninety, had it a long time, never had "isolation pads". As above re unseated spring and also check the shock/damper fittings.

It's the opposite of what you think. The pivot is a basic bush and to get lube in there it will need to be thin, engine oil will do. Better would be RP90 penetrating oil if things are very stiff. Also check return springs are good. Do not use WD40 it is not what it is for despite all the bumph...

I recon so. Likely you will need a different input gear. I do not know what the various part numbers are, much info on Ashcroft's site.

That is well true. :D

There are several differences, an example is early none cross drilled input gears have shorter splines inside. Ashcroft site "ashcroft lt230 input gear" for more info.

So you have two input gears, do they look identical? Are they cross drilled types? I do not see a twist in the shaft though, the rule will not sit straight at the box end because the spline grooves shallow out and widen there, it is just the way they are made.

There are differences. What are the ages of what you have box wise?

Spray some release oil like Plus gas or RP 90 [ even some diesel ] on the wheel studs where the pass through the drum and whack it some more on the rear edge knocking for out. A lump hammer that has a wide face is best.

Heard of the above done to sell off a knackered box before!

I think it is still head gasket issue, not a leak between cylinders but a leak from a waterway to say a pushrod access hole and then the sump. Possible it is being helped along by a small pressure leak from a cylinder tracking its way across the block/head joint. Whatever there is a lot of...

12.2v is a good voltage, may be an issue with the relay, swap with one of the others to test. When I was having start on the key intermittent issues I had a stand by rig of a wire from a known 12v feed with a switch in it and a double spade to connect up at the starter, It was under the bonnet...

The lower dash is just about the only area I have not been into. I could do with re sealing the cabin air flap in there. As for looking at the loom itself you may well find there is nothing to see unless there has been a big melt down. I have found that it is the case that when melt down...

Have you got a good earth connection to the battery? And another good connection from the engine to the chassis? If this one is bad the electrikity will try and complete the circuit any other way it can, resulting in odd things happening.

Sounds to me like you have a short in the system some where that is draining the battery. Someone bypassed the main loom to the fog for a reason. An 86 could well have a relay for the starter under the fuses, my 1990 did. But now has a direct feed from ignition to starter [the little wire] Some...

No matter which anti corrosion system you use none are a do once thing, depending on the use of vehicle, where you live it is a repeat job. I live by the sea and mine is a working farm truck, gets a good underside wash/dry then respray with engine oil and diesel mix every year.

Having re watched steamwally's video he does say it took him half an hour.[but he forgot to film it] I do now recall bit of a faff with the reverse idler in the way[ reason my box was appart was its replacement.

Now there's one, it was last autumn and I just can not remember. Sorry.

So did mine, hard to think what your issue could be.

You may well have an "Agri spares" place near you, they will have a selection of struts used to lift open tractor windows and other access panels.

And as @marjon says do not use those blue "scotch block" connectors. There are other similar products today that work the same way today by squeezing the wire between two thin metal bits while splitting the sheath, contact area is very small and while they work to start with it only takes a bit...