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The clutch fork is an item that went downhill when the coilers arrived, Series 3 had a cast item with a nylon bearing for the post. So called heavy duty [ extra bit of metal welded on the back of arm] available. Problem I have had with a replacement is loss of one of the pins for the swivel...

There is no sliding any thing in. Head off, clean the surfaces of block and head, composite gasket. Follow correct torque down method. Head can be remove with manifolds on but more weight. Plumbers blow lamp is a good small heat source. Some good videos on the you tube

Sometimes looking at an issue the next day provides the answer. :D :D

Just to confirm @Hicap phill above the interior/ dash light switch as standard gives dash lights one way and interior light the other way with both off in the middle.

Could be the clutch flexi pipe has delaminated inside, result black fluid and possible blockage. Remove pipe from slave and see if fluid will flow from master.

My 1990 Ninety has both Permanent live wire and a switched one available for the lighter socket. I think how which was connected depended on the country vehicle was sold in.

As Adam Savage on MythBusters would say" Thars your problem" What about finding a scrapped even dumped trailer with a braked axle to fit to yours?

What is a matter with the trailer brakes? In good order the trailer brakes will be coming on with only a normal light touch on the towing vehicles brakes. And the more weight there is in the trailer the harder its brakes should come on. Or is it a case your log buss just does not have any?

Have a look at "Steam Wally" series 3 gearbox overhaul video's on the You tube. Helped a lot when I did mine last year. There are 3 parts. May help.

Also never had or heard of a series prop coming apart, even when a UJ fails they keep working safely [ making a din to let you know there is an issue to sort.]

Another Yes from me.

YES.

In the class of "hen's teeth" I recon.

Dashboard lights were my crock, went back to standard.

So many questions on here about LED lights not working with Landys. I will say if you know your electrics then give it a go. If electrics not your thing then pass. Often not a case of just swapping over units. Oh and hello to the forum.

For Gawd sake do not use one of those thick bitumen under seal, it soon cracks and traps water, There are several good products on the market to day. A "toffy hammer" tap test like what an MOT guy will do tells a lot about the state of a chassis. Plus one on the above comments/video.

Snapped rods usually make a mess. A 2.5 NA is another option

Quite a lot about them on LR4X4 site.

Problems with expander can be, incorrect re assembly, or one of the little pistons [bottom] drops out unnoticed when replacing shoes, or it is just worn out.

Last year the original stat in my 200 gave up. I had two OEM replacements, one did not work at all and the other packed up after a month [stuck open] Found a new old stock original "Waxstat" been fine since.